ok so im doing the tighed1 diy belt wrap. my question is with a stock s/c pulley can the stock belt be used? i have all the parts installed but the belt seems extremely tight! i dont want to break the belt or put undue stress on any of the other pullies.
any ideas? does anyone have a part number for the next larger size belt?

 

I don't believe so. I have two belts. One for the belt wrap and one for the original path with a code three pulley.

Did you also change pulleys?

The best advantage or the belt wrap is that you don't have to be so tight to get good traction.


franc

 

my original plan was to use the c3 pulley with the diy wrap. after my deal for the pulley fell through, i had the parts for the wrap so i was just going to add that. so for now all oem pulleys and an added pulley for the rerouted belt wrap.
will the difference in pulley size (oem 72 mm c3 68 mm) make the difference/ what size belt do you have for the wrap? stock belt with your c3?

 

Which belt are you using that is extremely tight, the 114.5" factory belt? If so, the next size up is the 115.3" belt and it lets a little more give in the tensioner and not so much stress on the other pulleys. I had it on to solve those issues while using the 181 pulley kit. I have a belt wrap kit on now and dont use either of those belts.

 

I would check the movement/location of the belt tensioner, compared to stock. I can't imagine that it would require a different belt. There are a couple of people running wrap kits, with larger crank pulley (tighed1 is one of them), on the stock belts without issues. my 2 cents.
-Steve

 

I'm running a GY Gatorback 8PK2910,, 4081145 on the Code 3.
SMPSHADY is right though. You out to be able to find some slack in a tensioner. How big is you back turn wrap pulley? Mine adds about an inch of travel to the belt's path.

roadster with a stick

 

its the oem timing idler pulley tighed1 used in his belt wrap. it added travel but then running under the factory pulley next to the s/c should add the same i thought. im going to recheck everything in the am and then fire the car up to see the belt travel

 

If your clock starts running backwards STOP!


franc

 

didnt they tell you when a slk32 launches off the line time goes backwards?

 

That explains the memory losses.

I thought it was dejavue

Love that SRT6 launch. Everything outside the car goes Horizontal and then it goes away.

And then there is that damm set of blinking red lights always trying to keep up.

annoying.



roadster with a stick

 

i thought the C3 was 65mm

 

The Belt Wrap setup I use, uses the stock belt. Understand that is while running the 181 crank pulley (takes up some belt slack) and the Code 3 pulley (adds slack). To run the 181 you have to run a smaller water pump pulley (adds slack).




So I'm guessing that equates to some where around stock as far as belt length goes. I don't have a stock setup to try it on at the moment so I guess you get to tell us if it works stock Krazy.

I'm guessing yes.

 

im going to have to no on my setup. i had to crank the tensioner so hard to try to get the belt on it stripped the torx on it! so now i have to get a new tensioner from the dealer and go back to the stock setup until i find a larger belt. maybe with a c3 pulley there is enough room but to run the belt under the first pulley then over the new added pulley. in stock form it just wont work

WARNING !!! WARNING!!! do not strip thos tensioner pulley bolt! to replace the tensioner is running 500$!!!!!!! WTF!!! so much for any new parts. now trying to fix the old one

 

Add a thread lock insert of weld shut and retap the hole. Woody

 

unfortunately its a male torx with a threaded bolt for the nut for the pulley. i was thinking of welding a nut over the tiorx but it may melt the bearing in the pulley. and if the pulley ever goes bad i wouldnt be able to replce just the pulley.

 

That sucks, I am still trying to figure out how to replace the stock S/C bolt that I broke when installing my C3 pulley. I would like to be able to take it to the dealer and say, here fix my cooling problem. I would rather not chance voiding my extended warranty, because of a bolt. Good luck. I am looking into the belt wrap now that I have powder buildup on the S/C pulley, which I am assuming is slippage. I found a billet 90mm idler pulley on ebay, but thought it was a bit big. I suppose I will just buy the stock one and use it for now.

 

well i was able to return the serpentine belt to the oem routing and by slipping the belt on 2/3 of the way onto the pulley and starting the engine it lined itself up. so im back were i started but if i ever need to remove the belt getting it back on will be next to impossible without a new tensioner

 

So yer back on the road?
Looks like I get my coupe back this coming week. I'll try to mount the Belt Wrap kit on it while it's stock to see what happens.

 

yes dj im running in stock form. if you dont mind when you start the wrap measure the stock belt and shoot me a foto of the pulley array. i believe its the same.
i think the biggest problem is the torx on the end of the stud is small and in such tight quarters to try to get a socket and bar into. it keeps slipping off due to the amount of pressure applied. i know the fan shroud has tore my forearm up!!!

 

Dude!
I don't know about the SLK but on the SRT taking the fan out of the car (thus out of yer way) takes all of one minute. That would give ya extra clearance to work.
Not sure which torx you are talking about. The tensioner?
On my cars I use a 15mm box wrench and use the nut that is also on the tensioner to release the tension. Don't yank on it as you will loosen the bolt. Just apply smooth pressure and the tensioner will pull back.
Let me know if this works for ya.