modded thermostat
Originally Posted by BrianBrave
Pull your T-Stat out completly - then run your car (in the hot summer weather) so it reaches it's normal operating temperature (say 1/2 hour) - if your ECT exceeds 195* (the OEM T-Stat setting) then a 180* T-Stat will offer you nothing - it will just open sooner and prolong the time it takes your engine to reach its normal operating temperature.
If you drive in the dead of a cold winter (other then in the sub tropic regions) and your ECT never rises above 180* (burrrrrr cold outside) - then the 180* T-Stat will do you nothing. (it will never open or would a 195* T-Stat)
But - If you drive in conditions somewhere between the sweet spot of 180*F and 195* then you will gain perhaps a few degrees... maybe 15* max.
What does that buy you??? Does the ECU make your engine run richer at 180* and pulling timing????(according to the service manual it just might) then when running at 195* Only dataloging will provide the cold hearted (ah umm.) facts..
If you drive in the dead of a cold winter (other then in the sub tropic regions) and your ECT never rises above 180* (burrrrrr cold outside) - then the 180* T-Stat will do you nothing. (it will never open or would a 195* T-Stat)
But - If you drive in conditions somewhere between the sweet spot of 180*F and 195* then you will gain perhaps a few degrees... maybe 15* max.
What does that buy you??? Does the ECU make your engine run richer at 180* and pulling timing????(according to the service manual it just might) then when running at 195* Only dataloging will provide the cold hearted (ah umm.) facts..
When I run hard I see intake air temps 30 degrees higher temp in the manifold case; than the ambient. In traffic it may be up to 40 degrees higher.
218 is OMG hot water, unless your driving hard.
Pull timing, ah yeah you betcha. Your power is probably doing a palin and quiting at that temp. Lower water temp will cool the engine but the water has to be allowed to flow.
A lower stat opens sooner and more fully to promote better heat rejection. It seems that the fan mod to early up the fans would be beneficial to a lot of us.
Woody
218 is OMG hot water, unless your driving hard.
Pull timing, ah yeah you betcha. Your power is probably doing a palin and quiting at that temp. Lower water temp will cool the engine but the water has to be allowed to flow.
A lower stat opens sooner and more fully to promote better heat rejection. It seems that the fan mod to early up the fans would be beneficial to a lot of us.
Woody
Originally Posted by jturkel
well right now in the summer here (currently 103 and 8:40 pm, i see ECTs above 195.....up to 218 actually.....though in non-summer times, i dont think it gets that high.......basically, you are saying that the tstat might be worthless if my temps are too high (i havent split the system yet either) and it might actually PULL timing? is that correct? ......and then what of the fan?
I don't think seperating the Intercooler coolant from the enine coolant will have any effect on the ECT's. But if your ECT's are currently running at 218*F - you will see a big improvement with your Intercooler coolant and IAT's.
Originally Posted by BrianBrave
If your ECT's are running around 218*F then a 180* thermostat will only extend the warm-up time to reach final operating temps. - I don't think a 180* T-Stat would hurt your car, or pull any timming - It just won't reduce final operating temperature.
I don't think seperating the Intercooler coolant from the enine coolant will have any effect on the ECT's. But if your ECT's are currently running at 218*F - you will see a big improvement with your Intercooler coolant and IAT's.
I don't think seperating the Intercooler coolant from the enine coolant will have any effect on the ECT's. But if your ECT's are currently running at 218*F - you will see a big improvement with your Intercooler coolant and IAT's.
So it sounds like i am almost just as good to do the cheapy way out and drill the holes then? the temps never get near freezing here so i wouldnt have any codes thrown from too cold an engine.
as far as seaprating the IC coolant from the engine coolant, it should definitely help improve my IATs as they are ridiculously high (im assuming) as reflected by by ECTs, but i was hoping that the fan mod and tstat would help with this....
Originally Posted by jturkel
as far as seaprating the IC coolant from the engine coolant, it should definitely help improve my IATs as they are ridiculously high (im assuming) as reflected by by ECTs, ....
Its a free mod.
The procedure is covered somewhere in my How to Super Cooler Install thread. Believe it starts at step 8.
Last edited by tighed1; Jul 16, 2009 at 02:13 PM.
Drilling is worthless, If you want to get more flow without making or buying a 180 stat, just pull it out in the summer and replace in the fall. THe codes are easy to reset if you get one and if you are playing with stats you must have a code reader as a tool for checking and resetting. The tools are cheap.
Stat contols the water and the fan or forward motion cool the radiator.
Looks like I should get to finishing the fan mod that I started over a year ago. A lil box that generates a signal to speed the fans is what I have in mind for the forums "heat producers".
I did something like this for drag racing and it worked on the line to cool the motor, AND I even wrote up the story about it and offered the parts (FREE) to do it. THat was simple resistor to up speed the fans when the car is staging AND NOT RUNNING ON THE STRIP cause it would pull timing in that event.
ENJOY W
DY trying to stay Cool...........
Stat contols the water and the fan or forward motion cool the radiator.
Looks like I should get to finishing the fan mod that I started over a year ago. A lil box that generates a signal to speed the fans is what I have in mind for the forums "heat producers".
I did something like this for drag racing and it worked on the line to cool the motor, AND I even wrote up the story about it and offered the parts (FREE) to do it. THat was simple resistor to up speed the fans when the car is staging AND NOT RUNNING ON THE STRIP cause it would pull timing in that event.
ENJOY W
look im no engineer or scientist. just a backyard wrench. but you guys are making this harder than it has to be.
for my car and i can only speak of it the temps run at 100 degrees C which is the were it stays all day so thats the operating range at this time. bu installing a 180 tstat my temps should drop to around 80 C. that will be the normal range. i dont see my temps jumping back up if the flow is released at 180 instead of 195.
jturkel for a 20,000$ car with a s/c 100$ is cheap mod to try. the separation is free. do it!!!!
for my car and i can only speak of it the temps run at 100 degrees C which is the were it stays all day so thats the operating range at this time. bu installing a 180 tstat my temps should drop to around 80 C. that will be the normal range. i dont see my temps jumping back up if the flow is released at 180 instead of 195.
jturkel for a 20,000$ car with a s/c 100$ is cheap mod to try. the separation is free. do it!!!!
Originally Posted by slk32krazy!
look im no engineer or scientist. just a backyard wrench. but you guys are making this harder than it has to be.
for my car and i can only speak of it the temps run at 100 degrees C which is the were it stays all day so thats the operating range at this time. bu installing a 180 tstat my temps should drop to around 80 C. that will be the normal range. i dont see my temps jumping back up if the flow is released at 180 instead of 195.
jturkel for a 20,000$ car with a s/c 100$ is cheap mod to try. the separation is free. do it!!!!
for my car and i can only speak of it the temps run at 100 degrees C which is the were it stays all day so thats the operating range at this time. bu installing a 180 tstat my temps should drop to around 80 C. that will be the normal range. i dont see my temps jumping back up if the flow is released at 180 instead of 195.
jturkel for a 20,000$ car with a s/c 100$ is cheap mod to try. the separation is free. do it!!!!
Originally Posted by jturkel
i know....im going broke lol.....mods and medical school apps are draining my money.....im trying to prioritize the allocation of my money. thats all haha.....and i just havent decided if the ic separation is ok to do without an additional reservoir/overflow tank.
as for the i/c sep. the only way to know is to try it. takes 5 minutes and maybe 2 qts of antifreeze.
there will always be different opinions on everything. if you look at the members here and on the other forums that did the 180 tstat the results were all positive. regardless of the science of it it seems to cool the engine down. think of it like the helicopter. the physics of it say its impossible but it flies.
the fan mod is also a good idea but for me not cruical in my climate. maybe if i find a few extra bucks ill do it
Originally Posted by slk32krazy!
look im no engineer or scientist. just a backyard wrench. but you guys are making this harder than it has to be.
for my car and i can only speak of it the temps run at 100 degrees C which is the were it stays all day so thats the operating range at this time. bu installing a 180 tstat my temps should drop to around 80 C. that will be the normal range. i dont see my temps jumping back up if the flow is released at 180 instead of 195.
jturkel for a 20,000$ car with a s/c 100$ is cheap mod to try. the separation is free. do it!!!!
for my car and i can only speak of it the temps run at 100 degrees C which is the were it stays all day so thats the operating range at this time. bu installing a 180 tstat my temps should drop to around 80 C. that will be the normal range. i dont see my temps jumping back up if the flow is released at 180 instead of 195.
jturkel for a 20,000$ car with a s/c 100$ is cheap mod to try. the separation is free. do it!!!!
Last edited by SLK32Germany; Jul 17, 2009 at 02:37 AM.
Originally Posted by SLK32Germany
Do your dials show values in Degrees Celsius? Are you sure that you are seeing the 100 Degrees Celsius mark? The highest mark at the top of the dial is the 120 Degrees celsius mark. I'm asking because on my SLK32 it is 90 Degrees Celsius with the Supercooler. 90 Degrees Celsius is o.k. for me, without a different stat.
90 to 95 hasnt been an issue i just know the engine can run cooler by approx 15 *C so im trying the 180 tstat as its only 100$ investment. shoot i have spent more than that in waxes and polishes for the black paint!!!!!
ok the tsat is in. swap took all of 10 minutes! that included pulling the fan. so far it seems to be worth every penny. temps dropped to about 85*C on the interstate at speeds rsanging from 70 to 85 mph. ran the car up to 150 mph and temps went to 95*C and no higher! in town traffic at 95 *F outside temp the tstat ran around 85 to 90 *C
this mod imo was worth the time and cost. no timing pulled cels tripped or adverse conditions. hope this helps someone who is on the fence
this mod imo was worth the time and cost. no timing pulled cels tripped or adverse conditions. hope this helps someone who is on the fence
Originally Posted by 32krazy!
ok the tsat is in. swap took all of 10 minutes! that included pulling the fan. so far it seems to be worth every penny. temps dropped to about 85*C on the interstate at speeds rsanging from 70 to 85 mph. ran the car up to 150 mph and temps went to 95*C and no higher! in town traffic at 95 *F outside temp the tstat ran around 85 to 90 *C
this mod imo was worth the time and cost. no timing pulled cels tripped or adverse conditions. hope this helps someone who is on the fence
this mod imo was worth the time and cost. no timing pulled cels tripped or adverse conditions. hope this helps someone who is on the fence
Originally Posted by distantpulse
I definately want one. Do I have to sign up over at MB world to purchase one of these?!
tynerfla@bellsouth.net i believe theres a group buy going on but he sold it to me for the group price
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