Problem with engine after chip tuning (ECU)
I've owned a crossfire srt-6 now since begining of the year. Bought it with only 2500miles on the meter, now has about 6000. I left the car at a tuning chip centre to "tune" it for a little more horsepower, last week, but after driving it up to 75mph I noticed no problems, but when I drove past 80mph the car started to "shake" when my foot went of the throttle for a second or two, got the same feeling as when you are running out of petrol, I notice this again when i accelerated for the second time from 80mph to 90mph the car "shaked" a little when i accelerated and when I took my foot of the gas again, driving below 75mph, I've noticed no problems at all, probably been driving about 120 miles below 75mph without issues. Have anyone had this problem, I guess it could be a problem with the tuning and the amount of petrol the engine in receving? My car is otherwise "original", no work done on it except ECU. Thanks.
I used a company in Stockholm, Sweden, www.tuningchip.com. The company have been tuning cars, often mercedes, for about 15 years or so.
Originally Posted by Welander
I've owned a crossfire srt-6 now since begining of the year. Bought it with only 2500miles on the meter, now has about 6000. I left the car at a tuning chip centre to "tune" it for a little more horsepower, last week, but after driving it up to 75mph I noticed no problems, but when I drove past 80mph the car started to "shake" when my foot went of the throttle for a second or two, got the same feeling as when you are running out of petrol, I notice this again when i accelerated for the second time from 80mph to 90mph the car "shaked" a little when i accelerated and when I took my foot of the gas again, driving below 75mph, I've noticed no problems at all, probably been driving about 120 miles below 75mph without issues. Have anyone had this problem, I guess it could be a problem with the tuning and the amount of petrol the engine in receving? My car is otherwise "original", no work done on it except ECU. Thanks.
you should take it back and complain...easiest way to find out whats going on.
you may have leaning issues....first thing that popped in my head after you mentioned it acting like you running out of gas.
you may have leaning issues....first thing that popped in my head after you mentioned it acting like you running out of gas.
I'm going back to the tune shop next week to see if they can help me, as the "check engine" light has come on as well as the "shakes" the thing is that it only shakes after 75mph, and only if you pull the trottle or take your foot of it.... thanks for your replys!
Originally Posted by ZAHANMA
you should take it back and complain...easiest way to find out whats going on.
you may have leaning issues....first thing that popped in my head after you mentioned it acting like you running out of gas.
you may have leaning issues....first thing that popped in my head after you mentioned it acting like you running out of gas.
I agree. The reason I mentioned about the throttle reset is that it takes a second or two and can eliminate that as a slight possibility. I have noticed that on mine a few times when I gave it full throttle, the car almost died, then picks back up. A throttle reset always cures the problem. Does not happen very often.
Originally Posted by Welander
I'm going back to the tune shop next week to see if they can help me, as the "check engine" light has come on as well as the "shakes" the thing is that it only shakes after 75mph, and only if you pull the trottle or take your foot of it.... thanks for your replys!
Thanks for all your replies. I'm going back to the store, and hopefully they can read what codes it is throwing. I think that SRT-6 Steve, was right on when he said " I gave it full throttle, the car almost died, then picks back up", that is exactly how it felt. How do I do throttle reset the easiest way, and is there a way to determine that it has been done successfully? The other thing is that since my "shakes" today on the freeway my "check engine" light has constantly been on, is there a way to reset it as well? Thanks again!
Originally Posted by Welander
Thanks for all your replies. I'm going back to the store, and hopefully they can read what codes it is throwing. I think that SRT-6 Steve, was right on when he said " I gave it full throttle, the car almost died, then picks back up", that is exactly how it felt. How do I do throttle reset the easiest way, and is there a way to determine that it has been done successfully? The other thing is that since my "shakes" today on the freeway my "check engine" light has constantly been on, is there a way to reset it as well? Thanks again!
Keep the key in for the entire time.
If this doesn't work, disconnect your neg. battery cable for 20 minutes. This will re-set the parameters in the drive-by-wire... and will reset your code. Unfortunately it will delete your pre-set radio stations, clock etc. as well...
I feel there may be something else wrong with the tune but at least this way, you can feel the process of elimination.
Do you have a Sprint Booster? I also had a defective one and it did exactly what your car is doing. The company I bought it from replaced it and no issues ever since.
when you finish the reset you cant do anything for 2 minutes. dont even open the door
1. Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
1. Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
Another possibility is the dreaded P0335, crankshaft position error. That stutter and die is what mine did at the track last year when it threw the P0335 error. Then it ran fine again. Until it went completely dead and wouldnt start.....
If your car sat on a dealer's lot for a long time before it was ever sold/driven for any extended period, you could have a fault fuel pump.
Mine was bad...would cause some hesitation during driving, and hard starts which involved excessive cranking.
Just a thought - they can pressure test the system to see if it has any leakdown. Easy test for any dealer.
SQ
Mine was bad...would cause some hesitation during driving, and hard starts which involved excessive cranking.
Just a thought - they can pressure test the system to see if it has any leakdown. Easy test for any dealer.
SQ
I've left the car at the tuning shop today, according to them it could be the spark plugs, they came to this conclusion as I´ve had the "check engine" light on since I first encountered “the shakes” this weekend, and according to the tuning shop the codes indicated misfires, so I’m getting new ones as we speak. I will keep you all updated.
Last edited by Welander; Oct 1, 2009 at 12:54 PM.
Originally Posted by Welander
I've left the car at the tuning shop today, according to them it could be the spark plugs, they came to this conclusion as I´ve had the "check engine" light on since I first encountered “the shakes” this weekend, and according to the tuning shop the codes indicated misfires, so I’m getting new ones as we speak. I will keep you all updated.
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