I have lost my pump at 26k miles. I have an extended service contract with Chrysler for the powertrain. It is good for the 8/80k timeframe. I took it to the dealer and they say the component (pump) is not covered. I said to the service advisor, if you don't have the pump, you don't have a supercharger. I would think there in lies how it is part of the "powertrain". I understand that is not attached to the actual engine or whatnot, but still. I think this is ridiculous also because I have been in communication, on my part actually, to Chrysler's complaint number since last Monday, the 19th. They just told me officially today(30th), from that department, that it is mandatory that I get a diagnostic test to know for sure that is the problem. I am pretty sure it is, since I insisted the SRT mechanic come out and check on it persoanlly and confirmed that is what it was.

Bottom line: It has been almost two weeks for them to make a decision to cover it or not, which after if I were to get the diagnostic test it would be a "slim" chance it would be covered. Crazy! Spend the $100 on it for giggles then?
So how about this being sole transportation? Not driving it, but still paying on it. A car that is broke cause of a personnel/logistics issue within Chrysler, that I, as the consumer is supposed to understand after buying the extended service contract. The service part here seems to be lacking, by far.

Two questions-

Am I really that far off here? Buying the contract, but yet this component not be covered, and will probably cost me out of pocket in the range of $500...

And..

How many people have had to change their intercooler pump so far? Please also state the mileage when it failed as well.

There seems to be a lot of people that have changed it so far, but yet not enough for a recall I suppose.

Regards,

 

forget the dealer they will use any excuse not to warrant something, pump isn't that expensive call Rob at needswings he has bosch pumps for like 125.00 easy to install. I have 18500 miles on mine heavily modified changed as a precaution.

 

I agree with bowlman in that you should just forget the dealer and take care of this without them. A Johnson pump is only $150, and would be easy for any local mechanic to install in no more than an hour.

I replaced my pump as a precaution because I didn't want to have any potential problems when traveling out of state.

 

An out of the box solutition that you can do is to swap in your spare pump to drive the car while they dither around.

WHATT a spare where , just above the I/C pump is another one that is used to heat the cabin heater. THey are the same and if your on an island stuck, you can swap them to get going. Just under the passenger headlight is the other pump.

Its work but no real money and they can delay without keeping you off the road so to speak.

DIDNT SEE THAT ONE COMING AT YA DID YA??????

WEEKEND TaaaaaaaaaaaaaaDaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

WOODY

 

I have a spare Johnson I'll sell you for like $75 shipped. It's used, but not too much and they're pretty bomb proof to begin with.

 

Better read you policy closely. If it is Powertrain only, more times than not it only covers "lubricated" parts of the engins and trans. (as in engine oil & trans fluid, and maybe rearend)
alternators, water pump,... and such might not be covered under this type of policy.
Check the fine print. Sucks but it is common.

 

A question in regards to what Waldig mentioned. I have not heard of anyone having to replace their heater pump but everyone has to replace the intercooler pump. Why is that? Is it something special about the intercooler system vs the regular radiator system that causes the intercooler pump to go bad but not the heater pump? Just a question. Any ideas?

 

The heater pump only runs in the rest mode, if I'm correct? thus it does not run all the time where the S/C intercooler pump runs all the time when using the S/C just my thought on the subject. I'm sure if I'm wrong some one will correct me

 

First, I would like to say "sorry" for the down time. Now to answer your question about "being too far off"---the answer is yes you are. I know that you are upset, but here's why you are "off." I had a three tire stores for 10 years and saw this all the time. People thought a powertrain warranty covered more than it did---you may have even been told it did cover more. 70GT6 is right about reading the policy. A car will not go far without a water pump either, but it is not covered under a "powertrain" only warranty---neither is a radiator, and a whole list of other parts. We all must have both of the above, but they will not be covered. You will be happy that you have it should you loose the transmission or engine, but a word of advice. MAKE SURE you have ALL paperwork on maintenance for TIME and/or MILEAGE because like 70GT6 said if you read the policy, the warranty will be VOID if the services are not done---I have seen it, so be careful and prepared. With low miles, you need to watch the TIME, or the warranty that you do have will be no good!!!!!

Now, you are right about the recall. I see way too many bad pumps on here, but with the failure not being a safety issue and the fact that it is a low cost part, we will never see a recall. Good luck---Buy the pump and love the car!!!!!

 

yes sir, the key here is to read what you bought. You paid quite a bit for just a power train warranty, I would read thru it, if you haven't already, and see if it excludes the pump...my quess, it does...although, I bought an after market warranty for a jeep I had, awhile back, the power steering shaft broke while busting some huge snow drifts, and they covered it...so good luck either way....

 

Go with the Johnson!
If you feel uncomfortable doing it by your self It is actually a good project to cut your teeth on. Pretty easy and should give you a good feeling and boost your confidence on working on your own car...
Good luck,
Mike

 

Not to stray too far off topic, but I've got an interesting question that I believe could be informative to others from one who knows the answer:

I understand that it is perfectly fine driving with no IC Pump (at the expense of power loss) but it wont ruin the motor by doing so.

Now I've driven N/A XF before, and when my 3.2 S/C is not S/C'd due to IC Pump, it feels far slower then the N/A XF.

Or is it that I don't accurately remember how quick the N/A was?

 

It is definitely slower than the N/A. It is because you're car is not JUST shutting off the Supercharger and operating the engine normally, but it is rather going into 'LIMP' mode where it restricts all processes in the engine to a point where it is still drivable but as far as possible from causing engine damage due to heat.

...a SRT with an out of commission I/C pump is slower than a prius. Seriously.

P.S. 7 month old thread.

 

I don't think the car is going into "limp" mode. Limp home mode doesn't allow you to shift out of second gear. When the IC pump goes, the computer simply disengages the SC. The FI engine has a lower compression ratio and 100 extra pounds. I think it may be this that makes it feel slower that the N/A.

 

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Folks I will try not to be too windy on this, but I have 25K on my SRT6 and probably will face the same problem. I had a year long battle over my headlights, up and down the chain and back again, but I didn’t give up. I finally wrote a letter to the State (of Texas) Attorney General’s Consumer Protection Division along with copies to the San Antonio TV stations and Newspapers. I presented it to the owner of the dealership and told him if I didn’t get results by Monday (this was on a Friday) the letters were going in the mail. He asked me to give him a little time, and I said ok, but I’ve already given a year. Upon which I left and went home.
Less then 45 minutes later the dealer called and told me the regional man with the approval or denial of the replacement “had caved” and the parts were being ordered. The headlights were both replaced.
My point is: don’t give up even if you have to replace the item yourself. Keep notes of who you talked to and what they said and WHEN. You can play “chicken” with them too. Lay it on thick that you are not a legal person and the policy was not thoroughly explained to you. Tell them you are not a mechanic and you don’t now the air intake from the tail pipe (facetious). Keep buggin’ them.
What disturbs me about this and all the other complaints I have read about i.e. Roadster rear windows etc. is that this sounds like a bunch of GIs BSing in the barracks and nobody taking any real action. Mind you. I HATE PAPERWORK, but sometimes there is no other alternative. If everyone that has had this problem had written it up to the NTSB and had it documented, maybe the problem would get resolved. Chrysler is on the comeback, and believe me as the Dealership owner told me, “we don’t need any more bad publicity”.
I love the forum for the info I get and believe me I am not bad mouthing anyone here, just that the “squeaking wheel”, the person with a good gripe, the group as a whole should be sure to file these problems with the NTSB. Not safety you say? make it a safety problem. Loss of power, you’re used to performance, a truck pulls out in front of you and you can’t accelerate around it. Your git up and go done got up and left. Grown men can shed tears too.

John P
FTroopChief

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/complaints/results.cfm

Complaints - Search Results
Search Results
Report Date : February 26, 2011 at 11:29 PM
Search Type : VEHICLE
Year : 2005
Make : CHRYSLER
Model : CROSSFIRE


Follow intructions and make complaint. THAT'S how things get done. Maybe not in my lifetime :)

 

i have a good used stock pump if you need it

 

John, I agree with you...give them hell....I fought Chrysler many years ago over a lemon they sold me. Long story short, 6 weeks later, they caved too. Took the truck back. Until these XF's came along, you would have never seen me in a Chrysler, and these truely aren't Chryslers, so I think my protest still stands....lol

 

Hey guys... As mentioned, this is a 7-month old post. I was about to offer up my though on it, then realized it's an old post.

 

how do you know when the IC pump is going out? will it just go out at once? or show small signs before fully going out?

 

It is really very simple to diagnose this problem. You step on the gas, and
instead of hearing the roar of the engine, and feeling your back pass through
your front, you get a sound similar to that of a plugged catalyitc converter
and the power of a prius.

No, there are no small signs. It just happens (based on experience x2).

Coyote