Perhaps there's a facility with a dyno and/or a star diagnostic system in your area.

This way you can run in every gear at several RPM's and look at data before chasing tunes..

Also, have you checked for leaking manifolds?
Can you re-install your factory manifolds to eliminate or reproduce this problem?

 

Sorry to hear about your problems, but if you go the kiwi wifi route: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...g-goodies.html

 

already bumped your stuff to him bill!!

 

Thank you for all your responses guys you've really helped me
Out. Bill with the Kiwi wifi unit was that able to give you AFR figures? I know Steve said our car has a narrow band but as you can see I'm trying to get a reading the easiest way ( through the OBD II) if possible. If not the second unit you have that requires to install a bung does that come with software and ability to use with a laptop like the base line zetronix unit? Or does it come with it's own monitor?

Evan I remember when were chatting we said it may run rich rather then lean or maybe my memory serves me wrong! But if that's the case the delay in shift may be due to my car being flooded with fuel...!! I emailed Rob I'll see what he Thinks of the issue.

 

if im correct you have to have the bung welded in and a separete O2 sensor installed to read wideband afr. if you look at the plx website you can order a gage that reads the sensor for you. im guessing bill was reading everything off his ifone and im not sure thats available to you in aussie.
the zeitronix is a great unit its what i use in conjunction with the dashdaq. i know someone had a complete setup for sale a little while ago not sure if it sold. maybe rob can make you a christmas steal! looks like rob has the zt-2 without a readout for 279$ saw he had a complete unit for sale in 09 used maybe he still has it

 

Kolevski, you can't see the stock narrow-band AFR readings and if you're going to datalog, why go on something that's possibly inaccurate anyway (when removing factory tolerances by upping boost, etc., those little inaccuracies matter more).

Yeah, you have to have the second group of items in my listing (including the wideband o2 sensor) to get AFR readings. I used the Rev app with it. DevToaster - Rev - iPhone app development, Great iPhone apps, and more

As it says, with the kiwi wifi + Rev app (even without the o2 sensor), you can datalog:

• Vehicle Speed
• RPM
• Fuel Consumption
• Engine Coolant Temp
• Fuel Pressure
• Calculated Engine Load
• Throttle Position
• Intake Manifold Pressure
• Air Intake Temp
• Timing Advance
• Mass Air Flow
• Fuel Level
• Barometric Pressure
• EVAP System Vapor Pressure
• Fuel Trim

You can also use that combo to diagnose and clear "check engine" lights, etc. on any OBDII vehicle. The only item that would be limited to one vehicle is the o2 sensor (since it is installed), the rest is portable and able to be used anywhere you have your iphone/itouch.

 

i just sent you an email to start with. yes you will want to get the reflash as we dialed in that tune specificaly for the intake manifolds/CAI-DCAI/178 pulley as we needed a little more fuel that was given to us from the oem calibration. the addition of the manifolds put the AFR into the low 13's and that was too lean for our liking, hence the new tune tailored for them.

as for the 18:1 A/F Ratio at wot up to 158mph, stop going WOT in that car at all costs until that has been corrected. yes you are riding a ticking time bomb at that point! it is the 19psi of boost that is causing that for you, let me guess.... your issues is from ~ 4900rpms to redline right?

 

agreed rob. i had no idea it was so high or i would never have run at all. the 18 afr was a spike but still runs lean thru most of the rpm. ill send you 2 files thru the n/w website for you to examine and give me your input

 

32,
I totally agree with Rob. One thing to consider, when you get a tune for your ride, they ask what mods, if any, are on it already to tailor it to your car somewhat. If you didn't have that extensive of a mod list when you bought a tune, the tuner more than likely leaned the stock tune out a fair bit to give you the bump in performance. Now when you go and add a bunch of intake mods on top of a leaned out tune you are going to get crazy high AFR ratios.
...just my $.02.

Good luck with it, and please get some fuel added back into it before you hammer on it.

KrzyFast

 

again agreed. i had the c3 installed and modded the oem boxes as much as possible but they dont flow any were near as much as the daul cai from rob. car isnt driven at all until the issue is fixed even if it means going to a different tuner.
sorry koveleski seems i jacked your thread!

 

I checked for leaking manifolds Brian and the first time they did come loose, then I used some thread locker and they seem to be okay now!

 

Hey Krzy when I bought the tune from InMotion i bought the custom tune from them to accomodate my cold air intake and pulley so id imagine they would have added fuel to my set up.

Ive decided to send away the ECU to InMotion its the only way the car will run right.

 

I would guess that a custom tune would have leaned your car out a bit.

Is there a dyno shops in your area? They'll have a wideband O2 sensor they can stuff up the exhaust that will provide you with a starting number...

Plus the graphs & data will aid the tuner when trying to "dial in" your remote tune and perhaps save you from having to resend the chip for further tweeking..

 

Dont be silly all discussion is great, sometimes solutions are found in discussions that don't even begin with the initial questions

 

Guys interesting news! I accidently broke the little tab on the back of the accelarator that makes that button click when you press the throttle down all the way, I have a spare unit so I changed it out (the whole throttle assembly) then I randomly decided to check all the manifold bolts, some of them had a tinyyyy bit of slack so I tightend them, I also bought new stronger clamps and installed them on the couplers that join the start of the manifolds and the y pipe!

I thought hrmm lets see if it made a difference! it sure did, the car shifts from gear to gear so strong and perfect its awsome! now I dont know if it was the extra tightening of the bolts or the stronger clamps on the coupler but whatever it is im really happy at the moment!

Im still going to send the ecu to inmotion but atleast its a relief for the moment!

 

Also on that PLX unit for sale on here you can swap the wideband sensor into the narrowband bung and the red box will send an emulated signal to the ECU so it still sees a narrowband sensor. No welding!

 

Really? Have you done it? Is the current narrow band sensor the one on top
of the headers? Or after the primary cats or are they both AFR sensors? Thats a really good idea thanks man.

 

Kolevski,

Great to hear that you think you have the problem solved. Awesome!
I can't speak to what Inmotion did to your tune for the pulley and CAI you installed, but I would still get to a dyno and get a base AFR to make sure you are not leaning it out up top. Like BB said, the info will help them dial you back in so you don't grenade it.


Cheers,
KrzyFast

 

*edited*

Good to hear you fixed the problem a bad leak would cause some power loss. I would data log whats going on up top just in case. Most dyno shops can monitor AFR. Really high afr's pull alot of timing, an that would also cause the sympotom you described in the first post.

 

Sorry forgot to mention that I ditched the factory clamps and used all new ones when installed the mani's. I went to tighten on one really good and it popped. Said not having that again, and replaced them all. Also each time I went to the track I kept a T-30 with me and rechecked them to make sure the bolts on the mani's were tight. Always using a cross pattern to tighten them. Glad to hear it's up and running. Like I said in PM, still get to datalogging to be sure. The zeitronix is nice because many of us have it and email them to each other.