I probably am going to feel silly when I pop the hood again tomorrow and find that number 9 spot! Oh, my, goodness. Can you tell I don't work with cars?? Hahaha

 

New update.. while the alarm doesn't sound anymore, the trunk along with the passenger door are still locked. Won't let me start the car either still. It's like the water has shorted the module completely. Is there any way I can manually open the trunk? Or do I have to tow it to the dealership to have them get in magically somehow?

 

Well I guess I should introduce myself at this point.

Hi, I'm Herman.

So have you pulled the fuse yet? ( it is so very helpful when fixing cars over the net to have good linear descriptions) Is the car a Vert or a coupe? If its a vert no dealership will be able to open it (unless they have a tricky fellow who really wants to figure it out) you would need to print off the instructions from here, and take them in.

In fact STOP!!!!

do not take this car to a Chrysler dealer, if it's not warranty work. Even then I would wager less than 10% of those dealerships have a certified Benz mechanic employed anymore.

Pull fuse 9 / disconnect the battery for an hour / reconnect the battery and put fuse 9 back in./ unlock the car and open the trunk / pull fuse 9.

If you already pulled fuse 9 put it back in and try to unlock the trunk, and then follow the previous instructions. Disconecting the battery resets the alarm.

Have you dried out the trunk well yet? If you get the trunk open, pull the strofoam inserts and check the status of the well underneath.

Have a merry Christmas, I will check back later.

 

Hi Herman! My name is Jamie. Sorry, I should have mentioned that yes, I have pulled fuse number 9 now that it has been properly located with your help. The car is a convertible, and I was afraid that you might say that they wouldn't be able to open it! That was my first assumption, but thought it might be a last resort. I will follow your new instructions once work slows down next week and see if that will help allow the trunk to unlock so it can properly dry out. That's my main goal, just to get the trunk to unlock so I can open it and get to the components that need to be dried out. Then once my husband returns, we can go about replacing them if needed. Thank you for all your help so far, I really do appreciate it! And you have a Merry Christmas as well!

 

Hi Jaime, nice to meet you. There is a Lock/unlock button low on the center dash console. Pushing that might open the trunk. If futzing with the battery and stuff doesnt work, here ---> https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...id-jammed.html <---- is the thread with the hire a small acrobat to unlock your trunk advise. ( is Cirque di Soliel in town?)

Sorry that your husband isn't with you for Christmas, I do hope you have some family to enjoy the Holidays with. I think My son and grandson are stranded @ JFK for the evening, so the wife and I will just hunker down and enjoy each others company.

Once again,

Merry Christmas, and best wishes for you and yours.

 

We've made some progress!! By disconnecting the battery for 15 min and reconnecting it helped reset whatever it was that needed resetting, and we were able to play around with the spoiler button on the console and the unlock button on the console as opposed to before! So upon clicking the unlock button a few times after seeing the spoiler button work, the trunk unlocked!! Yay!! So now we have the trunk open and most of the interior paneling out to help dry up any moisture that might be leftover in there. We didn't find a whole lot of moisture or any pools of water when we got to the central locking module, but you could tell that there had been a lot of moisture and a pool of water from some earlier point in time. The foam block that housed the locking module is being aired out, that didn't feel wet but we're airing it out just to make sure. My father took apart the actual module to check for moisture on the inside and check for any corrosion. We found a little bit of corrosion on one of the connectors, I have no idea what the correct name of the connector is, but it was a big green one that could be disconnected from the top of the module off to the side before the housing was taken apart. Upon opening the housing we saw the other end of what I assume is the same green connector, that had the same corrosion on it. All the other connections look to be ok. The corrosion doesn't look like it is too bad? But I may be wrong. Do you think it would be ok to try and clean it up with some contact cleaner or dielectric cleaner (I hope I'm spelling that right) before shelling out for a new module? Thanks!


This has made for a fun Christmas project while waiting for family members to get here!

 

Sure, try some WD40 on it.
( WD40 stands for Water Displacement formula #40 - the first 39 didn't work quite as well )

 

Awesome!

While using some wd40 and a qtip, we noticed one of the pins on the connector was super loose and would probably break off if connected and disconnected again. So, looks like ordering a new module will be in my near future! Lovely.

 

Final update- The new module arrived, and low and behold, the issue has been resolved!!! Thanks again for all the help from everyone, especially 05 roadster guy. Now we shall tackle fixing the seals in a couple of months, to prevent this from happening again. I know exactly where we'll be referencing for the job!!

 

Congratulations, and happy New Year! Hey by any chance could you post the link and price for where and how much you paid for the new part? It is all a part of the Pay it forward aspect of this board. Current information and current costs of parts etc....

 

Happy New Year to you as well!! I don't know the proper way to link it, but I got it off of eBay for 300 bucks. I just typed in the part number 1708000848 along with central locking pump and it popped up in the listings. It was a used one, new ones were listing for 900+. I was leary at first, but after communicating with the seller he reassured me that if it failed to work I could return it for a full refund. I figured at that point, if it failed to work, at least I'd get my money back to put towards the cost of a new one!

 

I'm a new member that has experienced this Security Alarm issue and my mechanic told me to try disconnecting the battery for 2-3 DAYS as some units take a while for the actual memory to reset and this worked. I had 12 months of various intermittent issues and nothing worked. Also my mechanic also informed us that he has even resorted to putting some RCU's in the freezer for a short period of time to reset and this worked also.

 

Days? It take about 30 minutes to reset most parts.
1 Battery

2 Fuse #9

3 Siren

4 and fairly likely if you get water in your trunk under the Styrofoam.

 

Yes I know it should only take 30 mins, but after trying that twice & even having the latest codes downloaded via the dealership, & they also did a reset etc & supposedly couldn't find anything wrong & couldn't even suggest what to do except start by replacing the horn (& at a high price without knowing if it would fix the problem) my mechanic told me to try disconnecting for at least 2 days. He had experienced this problem with some other European cars & it worked, so after spending a lot of money & not being able to lock car even manually ( hatch doesn't lock when you use the key) I thought we had nothing to lose. Ps we had tried re-sinking the keys twice & also replaced a part in the passenger door as well all to no avail. Also we had to disconnect the battery as the alarm was going off & the car wasn't even locked. We experienced so many different locking combination problems that we couldn't ascertain the problem. I know this shouldn't have worked but as it did & doesn't cost anything I thought I would share our fix. Computers can be tricky.:

 

Thank you very much for sharing. I guess I just didn't "get" that you had solved your problem, I thought you were asking for further advise. I take it you have replaced your battery and made sure your trunk doesn't fill up with water.