62mm SRT6 Pulley Available Now
Rudy,
thanks a million for setting this up and checking the pulley out for all of us ! (10,000 miles ... wow !)
this seems like a very good deal at the proposed retail price $750 ... so I would be an idiot not to step up and get one at $100 off (or whatever it works out to be).
add me to the list for sure !
thanks again,
Chris
thanks a million for setting this up and checking the pulley out for all of us ! (10,000 miles ... wow !)
this seems like a very good deal at the proposed retail price $750 ... so I would be an idiot not to step up and get one at $100 off (or whatever it works out to be).
add me to the list for sure !
thanks again,
Chris
You're on the list as well.
Tentatively speaking we are only 3 people away from $650 with jiggityjosh and SparkieSRT6 in 10th and 11th places. Gonna be a nice price drop with a few more people.
$725.00
1. Coyote
2. Kbanford
3. oledoc2u
$700.00
4. cmz
5. latemodel21
6. -
$675.00
7. -
8. -
9. -
$650.00
10. jiggityjosh
11. SparkieSRT6
12. -
$725.00
1. Coyote
2. Kbanford
3. oledoc2u
$700.00
4. cmz
5. latemodel21
6. -
$675.00
7. -
8. -
9. -
$650.00
10. jiggityjosh
11. SparkieSRT6
12. -
1. Coyote
2. Kbanford
3. oledoc2u
$700.00
4. cmz
5. latemodel21
6. -
$675.00
7. -
8. -
9. -
$650.00
10. jiggityjosh
11. SparkieSRT6
12. -
with 10-12 buyers the price is only $75.00 off (according to the listing).
that is 100 off of the $750 retail (which I believe is the "after-initial-buy-price").
I hope more jump on board, but I am not concerned as this is a great deal even if no one else comes along.
Chris
Gotcha. Thanks. Must have somehow missed that (or, more likely forgot).
I've received a few PMs and emails in regards to shims and the clearance of the clutch. This was very important when the pulley was designed so it wouldn't have the problems other pulleys had. I've included the instructions for those that didn't see them in the other thread.
1) Install with 1 OEM 0.33mm shim only. Do not add more shims to it.
The leaf springs are stronger than OEM so the gap between the plate and the clutch must be closer in order for the magnet to have an effective suction on the plate. The pulley will not engage fully if the gap between the plate and the clutch is 0.4mm or greater.
2) Drive your car normally for 50 miles to set the gap between the plate and the magnetic clutch into the correct position. Your car is drivable before the ECU tune.
After installing the pulley with 1 OEM shim, the gap between the plate and the magnetic clutch may be more than 1mm. Let it be, it will set into the right position after 50 miles. After that, you will see that
the plate is very close to clutch(less than 0.3mm).
3) Tune the ECU. Do not tune the ECU before pulley is mounted and broken-in correctly because pulley will not fully engage.
1) Install with 1 OEM 0.33mm shim only. Do not add more shims to it.
The leaf springs are stronger than OEM so the gap between the plate and the clutch must be closer in order for the magnet to have an effective suction on the plate. The pulley will not engage fully if the gap between the plate and the clutch is 0.4mm or greater.
2) Drive your car normally for 50 miles to set the gap between the plate and the magnetic clutch into the correct position. Your car is drivable before the ECU tune.
After installing the pulley with 1 OEM shim, the gap between the plate and the magnetic clutch may be more than 1mm. Let it be, it will set into the right position after 50 miles. After that, you will see that
the plate is very close to clutch(less than 0.3mm).
3) Tune the ECU. Do not tune the ECU before pulley is mounted and broken-in correctly because pulley will not fully engage.
From what I have read the OEM pulley required different size shims to suit the particular pulley supplied due to manufacturing tolerances of the SC shaft, the clutch and the pulley. So wouldn't the initial pulley fit be better using the shim(s) that the were used with the OEM set up?
If the gap could be greater than 1mm on the initial install and the attraction of the magnet cannot overcome the spring tension and there is slip or no contact what would the effect be on the SC performance for the initial 50 miles?
If one can expect that the gap will decrease from greater than 1mm to 0,3mm then the so called springs are not really springs at all as they will have been stressed beyond their elastic limit and will not return to the original position on the plastic stops. That they are not on the stops is no great loss but how many cycles can they be expected to flex after that without getting closer and closer to the clutch? Steel that flexes constantly without the proper heat treatment to give it the properties of a spring will fail sooner than a true spring that is not stretched beyond its limits.
The use of the spacer indicates that a different bearing to the OEM bearing is being used, if so what are its properties with regard to load and RPM, smaller bearings tend to have higher RPM limits but take less loads. I imagine that a PSK will put more load on a bearing and would reduce the life of the OEM bearing let alone a smaller one. How long can this bearing be expected to last and are they readily available off the shelf.
With what you have said previously the riveting of the springs is being done as it should be, as the riveting process, the tightness of the rivets in their holes and the accuracy of the rivet hole positions is vital to the success of the pulley. The quality of the product is obvious to the eye.
When you mention the tune is it the Speed Driven tune that is required to get the most from this mod or can those with other tunes just get an update?
I have read about this new pulley with great interest and there are a few questions that I have that I cannot see the answers to.
From what I have read the OEM pulley required different size shims to suit the particular pulley supplied due to manufacturing tolerances of the SC shaft, the clutch and the pulley. So wouldn't the initial pulley fit be better using the shim(s) that the were used with the OEM set up?
From what I have read the OEM pulley required different size shims to suit the particular pulley supplied due to manufacturing tolerances of the SC shaft, the clutch and the pulley. So wouldn't the initial pulley fit be better using the shim(s) that the were used with the OEM set up?
If one can expect that the gap will decrease from greater than 1mm to 0,3mm then the so called springs are not really springs at all as they will have been stressed beyond their elastic limit and will not return to the original position on the plastic stops. That they are not on the stops is no great loss but how many cycles can they be expected to flex after that without getting closer and closer to the clutch? Steel that flexes constantly without the proper heat treatment to give it the properties of a spring will fail sooner than a true spring that is not stretched beyond its limits.
The use of the spacer indicates that a different bearing to the OEM bearing is being used, if so what are its properties with regard to load and RPM, smaller bearings tend to have higher RPM limits but take less loads. I imagine that a PSK will put more load on a bearing and would reduce the life of the OEM bearing let alone a smaller one. How long can this bearing be expected to last and are they readily available off the shelf.
With what you have said previously the riveting of the springs is being done as it should be, as the riveting process, the tightness of the rivets in their holes and the accuracy of the rivet hole positions is vital to the success of the pulley. The quality of the product is obvious to the eye.
My personal preferences are Speedriven and InMotion as I have directly had great success tuning with them both but that is not to say there aren't other competent tuners out there.
Anything made of metal that has a temper has a yielding point that has be be met. When you over stress something past it's yield point, you permanently deform it. Some metals like aluminum will not rebound at all after this point, other metals like spring steel do and it's this process that is what makes everything work with this pulley. If we didn't, it would never meet this yield point and would continue to deform until it met this point. That being said, if you pull this thing an inch apart, you're well past the initial deforming and it will not spring back.
The pulley is going to slip during the first few miles. The exact number will be different for every car as no one will drive the car exactly the same during the first 50 miles but it was before this point that every pulley tested was where it needed to be and usually with only the 0.33 shim and 50 miles is a good solid number that people will remember.
Refer to the first reply above.
You are correct in that the bearing is smaller but it's loading characteristics will be the same or better than the original larger one as we are moving it's center of mass farther onto the shaft and as a result, putting the load closer to the point of off-axis loading (where the clutch and clutch plate meet) and that will actually minimize what very little wear the pulley saver kit would add.
Thank you for your observation. Aside from aesthetics and people's piece of mind, the recess of the rivets pose no increase or benefit over those that were flush like the prototypes but everyone has pointed it out with worry so that part of the design was revised.
My personal preferences are Speedriven and InMotion as I have directly had great success tuning with them both but that is not to say there aren't other competent tuners out there.
The pulley is going to slip during the first few miles. The exact number will be different for every car as no one will drive the car exactly the same during the first 50 miles but it was before this point that every pulley tested was where it needed to be and usually with only the 0.33 shim and 50 miles is a good solid number that people will remember.
Refer to the first reply above.
You are correct in that the bearing is smaller but it's loading characteristics will be the same or better than the original larger one as we are moving it's center of mass farther onto the shaft and as a result, putting the load closer to the point of off-axis loading (where the clutch and clutch plate meet) and that will actually minimize what very little wear the pulley saver kit would add.
Thank you for your observation. Aside from aesthetics and people's piece of mind, the recess of the rivets pose no increase or benefit over those that were flush like the prototypes but everyone has pointed it out with worry so that part of the design was revised.
My personal preferences are Speedriven and InMotion as I have directly had great success tuning with them both but that is not to say there aren't other competent tuners out there.
The rivet orientation should be like the OEM ones, rivet head against the spring.
Thanks for your response, as you can see my main point is the initial deformation of the springs. I realize the problems of making springs that are required to meet certain elastic and tension specifications but it can be done. Using such a spring and reverse engineering the pulley to keep the rear clutch plate face to the rear bearing face the same the OEM shim would be the correct size. There would be no run in period and all would be rosy.
The rivet orientation should be like the OEM ones, rivet head against the spring.
The rivet orientation should be like the OEM ones, rivet head against the spring.
Rudy, I was wondering about this as well. Will a replacement bearing be readily available?
As I've only put 10k on this bearing, it's honestly not yet known. It feels as good as the day I installed it though and it is an NSK bearing that is rated the same or better across the board as the replacement for the oem bearing. They are not as easy to locate from the various sources the stock one can be found due to its much broader use, but they are an off the shelf bearing that can be ordered when needed.
As I've only put 10k on this bearing, it's honestly not yet known. It feels as good as the day I installed it though and it is an NSK bearing that is rated the same or better across the board as the replacement for the oem bearing. They are not as easy to locate from the various sources the stock one can be found due to its much broader use, but they are an off the shelf bearing that can be ordered when needed.
Perfect....thanks for the quick reply.
Three days to go and three people away from $650 each. The group buy ends this Friday and should we not get them, jiggityjosh and SparkieSRT6, would you two be opposed to taking spots 6 and 7, getting everyone down to $675?
$725.00
1. Coyote
2. Kbanford
3. oledoc2u
$700.00
4. cmz
5. latemodel21
6. -
$675.00
7. -
8. -
9. -
$650.00
10. jiggityjosh
11. SparkieSRT6
12. -
$725.00
1. Coyote
2. Kbanford
3. oledoc2u
$700.00
4. cmz
5. latemodel21
6. -
$675.00
7. -
8. -
9. -
$650.00
10. jiggityjosh
11. SparkieSRT6
12. -
As soon as this pulley arrives, I will have a Code 3 pulley up for sale...I have "hot" interest on the MB side...and a few, Rudy included with some interest. So, if you aren't comfortable pushing the limits, this pulley will keep you safe. I have a solid # I will post up once this pulley is in my possession. I will leave a Code 3 on the roadster. I am very happy with the code 3 pullies, but I will be playing a little harder with the coupe...so I will push it so to speak...just some info, so 180 if you are stock and want something just a little better, this pulley has performed very well for me. I haven't put more a 1000 miles on it myself but I can't tell you accurate mileage as this was 240's pulley. Come on guys, jump in there so the old guy can get a discount...lol
Last edited by oledoc2u; Aug 15, 2012 at 05:11 PM.
Excellent....so you will be in position #6. Just have to fill # 7 & 8 then I'll move down to 9
Anyone else sitting on the fence?.........180??
Anyone else sitting on the fence?.........180??
C'mon guys and get these while their hot! You'll get a better price now than you will later, and
you won't have to worry about that self inflicted boot print on your backside you might give
yourself if you pass this up. 62mm! Not as big a drop from say a Code 3 (but still significant),
but imagine what you'd feel is you were swapping out from stock.
I almost waited too long to get in on the Code3 group buy, but decided in the last few days to
get one of those. Maybe you are in that boat today. If so, I'd urge you to get on the list and
not find the deal closed and no further units produced due to "lack of interest".
Best wishes to you all
you won't have to worry about that self inflicted boot print on your backside you might give
yourself if you pass this up. 62mm! Not as big a drop from say a Code 3 (but still significant),
but imagine what you'd feel is you were swapping out from stock.
I almost waited too long to get in on the Code3 group buy, but decided in the last few days to
get one of those. Maybe you are in that boat today. If so, I'd urge you to get on the list and
not find the deal closed and no further units produced due to "lack of interest".
Best wishes to you all
I would buy one the problem is that I'm running 178 asp crank pulley today and I didn't get the 155mm orginal pulley when I bought the car. If I just could get my hands on a orginal crank pulley. If somebody have one please let me know.
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