On the common problems list there is a Alignment Specifications pdf. Is this the correct suggested specs for our cars? Has anyone tried it and can verify it is correct? Are any additional kits (camber bolt kits, etc) needed to achieve these modifed specs?

I had to replace my tires not too long ago because the inside of the front and rear drivers side were severely worn compared to the rest of the tire. I have it aligned at a dealership when the new tires were installed, but I'm still leery. The only way I will be able to tell is measure the tire wear. I'm thinking it might be worth it to take these mod specs to a shop and have it re-done.

 

That spec range is the same I have gotten from the dealer and Firestone. The insides are going to wear quicker because of the camber. How bad depends on how aggresive the camber is. After dropping on eibachs I was at -2 on the driver side even with the MB adjustment bolts.

Results


I had to go with the K-MAC front kit to get back into spec.

If you are not lowered the Mercedes bolts will allow you a bit of adjustment .3 in my case. They only have two ways they can go in. One way for positive, one for negative. The rear camber can not be adjusted stock. I have MikeR camber bars in back but you can make your own as well. K-Mac has a rear kit as well but the adjustment isn't as much as the bars.

If you go to a shop you can tell them where you want it adjusted to, most will just leave it at any number in the acceptable range if you don't specify. Anything less than -1.0 should result in more even wear but at the cost of handling. I am at .9 in the rear, can't remember the front.

 

The important part of Airscape's reply is "If you are not lowered..." Whether true or not, you have to make a choice.

I have the 1.5" Eibach kit, MikeR's rear camber arms and the eccentric washer kit in front. I had the dealer install the arms and the washers, then align to spec. Driving 90% on the freeway, I got 23,000 miles out of my front tires (Dunlop Sport Maxx TT), and the rears are gonna give me a few thousand more.

It's up to you -- you can spend the money on suspension or you can spend it on tires.

 

Yes, also making the assumption you are fully adjustable for the last part. No shop will be able to dial your settings in where you want em otherwise.

 

Mine is the stock height.
So it looks like $700 in parts for the cheapest option (K-MAC in front and rear) just to get the alignment the way it should have been from the factory.....way to go Chrysler!
So once these parts have been installed, what's the proper camber at each wheel -.9?

 

If your stock the bolts should get you in spec, (do you have your reading from the alignment ?) they just can't really be dialed in perfect (20 some bucks each) rear camber arms can be pieced together for less than 200 I believe. Proper camber is technically anything in the specified range. The closer you go to 0 the less force put on the inside edge.

 

Lots of stuff on this thread regarding subject matter:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...your-ride.html