Well I put the resistors in the back of the C and wanted to share with you the steps I took. I did not have to strip any wires, solder, tape or wire nut any leads, so I am sure that you would favor this approach. Do ya get the title???? Catchy eh?





Ok I used the compression wire taps that are insulated and connect to the existing wire without cutting it or any of that mess. I used RED clamps as the size and color are related. The resistor wire leads are smallish about 0.030" so the reds did the job.

The clip on taps are easy to use, the main lead or wire is unbroken and goes in the first slot away from the hinge. The wire to be added to the first wire goes into the second hole - HALF WAY. There is a stop to limit its insertion and only one side / end accepts the wire, see the photo for better understanding. There is enough room to do this BUT IT HELPS if you dont jump in and go at it without a plan, space the connectors so that your not against the socket ( gotta add or replace a bulb ) and not so as to crowd the other connector.

On the brake light I did two resistors, one for running and one for the brake 'filament'. If you close the metal clamp before your set you can pry it open and re-due it with a little effort. I dont have a lamp out indicator.

Hope you like the deal, as before - look at my gallery for more photos, and related cool stuff as they say. Enjoy, Forest 'Woody' Gump


by Buffalo Springfield
from Forrest Gump Soundtrack


There's something happening here
What it is ain't exactly clear
There's a man with a gun over there
Telling me I got to beware
I think it's time we stop, children, what's that sound
Everybody look what's going down
There's battle lines being drawn
Nobody's right if everybody's wrong
Young people speaking their minds
Getting so much resistance from behind
I think it's time we stop, hey, what's that sound
Everybody look what's going down
What a field-day for the heat
A thousand people in the street
Singing songs and carrying signs
Mostly say, hooray for our side
It's time we stop, hey, what's that sound
Everybody look what's going down
Paranoia strikes deep
Into your life it will creep
It starts when you're always afraid
You step out of line, the man come and take you away
We better stop, hey, what's that sound
Everybody look what's going down
Stop, hey, what's that sound
Everybody look what's going down
Stop, now, what's that sound
Everybody look what's going down
Stop, children, what's that sound
Everybody look what's going down

The extra shielded wire on the harness, is power to my wings brake light led array, fyi.

 

nice write up thanks.

 

Thanks Woody!

 

Neil Young and I are proud of that post!

 

Just went to a neil young concert in va a few months back.

Not the neil I remember, wow was it bad, about 10 minutes of feedback, just feedback. He has seasoned in a way that I could never go to see him again, it was just loud and freeky.

Woody, hardcore rocker here.


WEEKEND< YEAHWEEKEND< YEAH

 

Woody,

What watt resistors are those?

~edit~ nevermind, I found them in another thread. 100ohm 2w

 

13 volts is like 1.69 watts, I got 2 watters and ran them on my solar panel for a couple of hours to see that they did not fall apart or crack like the resistors I had as a kid in elementary school. They are US made... Enjoy, Woody

E (x) E
_______

R (100 ohms)

 

Careful, at 14 volts it is 1.96watt. Make sure your tolerances are there or you'll be tearing them apart and replacing them. Could you not find 150 ohm at 2 watt ( 2W Watt 150 Ohm 150 R Metal Film Resistor 20 Pcs | eBay ) to be on the safe side? My car tools along at night with lights on at 14 plus volts all the time.

 

Two days later and no-one comments on peeps using 'close-to' tolerences resistors in an electrical system? Wow! Maybe I just don't 'get it'? Usually resistors are rated with tolerences as +/- specific ratings, so if you get a set or any within the (-) tolerences range you can overheat em and melt something. Melting things usually means combustible gases present and if the resistor cracks and sparks, well you can see the chain continuing. I try not to increase my risk of distroying things... Food for thought!

 

Thanks for that.

I was going to say something, but...what the heck. Duty rating does mean something to someone!

 

Yeah I see it all too often then later it's blamed on something else by someone not as dilligent, with a deadline or too much on his/her desk, and some social gathering on the calendar...


Be careful folks!

 

Youll note that the resistors were powered up for several hours without any issue [ editors note, I forgot them and came back the next day - this is why I used higher end components - read American] , melting, discoloring, smoking or what not. 100 ohms drew enough current to keep indicator off. Do what you like, I did testing to satisfy my own level of concern (s).

Enjoy, Woody

 

Not one to get into a pissin contest with anyone, I would think advising anyone making electrical changes/upgrades to cars involving close to maximum tolerances, to be aware a slightly higher value would be wise. That said, you can do anything you want with your car. I would like to think the next guy can be advised to be aware of alternatives when it comes to cheap resistors near their maximum design tolerances. Even 'higher end' components, no matter where you get them from, can be out of tolerance on the low end. This is why the band indicating the tolerance is added during manufacturing. Old saying 'trust but verify' has me checking values as I install them. Most engineers design for the middle area of the scales (as in the 35-65% range of the device) for its intended function. On a final note, those quick splice connectors can wind up working loose during time. I have had a few of them in vehicles over the years wind up having to be replaced/reseated as the connection became intermittent. Good luck to everyone making the mod, it is good to have many options to upgrade our girls!

 

Or, another route:

100 ohm 5 watt.

5 watt cement resistor, 100 ohms [R-5-100] - $0.69 : NewOldSounds.com

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...FQ4GnQodMX4AmA

 

The price per is much higher than a 150ohm 2 watt, for sure (0.20 cents per vs 0.69 cents plus shipping). Also will a 5 watt draw more current as well? I'm not sure what else is 'down/up' the line here, remember the BCM makes the ground on these doesn't it? Its just a cautionary bit of advice, the mod is to keep the lamp out indicator off, peeps will do what they want anyway. The cement ones, just how large are they? Whew....

 

Price? Really?

Really?

And the power rating has no effect on current draw @ voltage.

 

Yes, PRICE! Price, price... Really. You are correct about the current until something unforseen happens, but then again who wants something that big hanging off their wiring (cement resistor in a 5 watt range). I say again if people have money to throw around on things more expensive than an alternative then please PM me for my paypal and I'll be glad to accept donations. I'll of course give all due accolades and spend it much more wisely. Seeing as my contribution to help head off tolerence issues/potential problems, and costs associated with mods people want stimulates some to negativity, I'll back out of the thread (especially since I will not be adding non-canbus lamps nor slicing into an electrical system historically fraut with gremlins) and let those being led by those who are experimenting with this continue to do so. Have fun folks, for those who appreciate the submitted advice (for the reasons already given), your welcome! For those who feel insulted or bent on defending something they shouldn't have had to defend in the first place, oh well....., please get over it, life is too short!

Perfect place to plug the advice to make sure you document all modifications for the poor guy(s) that have to figure out what you did to this and that down the road.

 

Maxcichon, to clarify, and I believe you got it correct; but maybe your were asking for a clarification, wattage has no relevence to the current drawn, its it is simply the resistance and applied voltage that control the current.

A 1 watt 10 watt or 100 watt rated device (resistor) would only allow the passage of a set amount of current, and the dissipation rating of the device will determine how hot it becomes or how long it will last. Woody

 

Abso-perfect-luetly!

 

I really don't know how to respond to this.

I'll gladly send you $5 if it's needed. And maybe a cup of coffee?