What is the real deal with adding hp to the srt-6
What is the real deal with adding hp to the srt-6
Thanks to the help provided by Pizzaguy and Randall i am now the proud parent of a black srt-6 roadster with 12k miles on it. My plan is to drop some money into the new baby and get it to jump and run like an adult. I am posting for advice on the best way to do this, feel free to drop some parenting tips on me if you like. It seems like there are many ways to squeeze out a few more ponies and everyone has an opinion but im sure there are a few members who excel in this area and hope to get a little advice on where to spend and what to expect. I am looking for the car to launch faster, accelerate faster and get better 0-60 times. I would also like to keep it drivable. One last thing, I want it to sound mean and deep. Anyone have thoughts on the Mopar exhaust for this? I want to put a cap on my investment at about $3k. So fire away.
Re: What is the real deal with adding hp to the srt-6
The only advice you need is to follow this link, it leads to the land of milk and honey. Honey Hole
Re: What is the real deal with adding hp to the srt-6
The only advice you need is to follow this link, it leads to the land of milk and honey. Honey Hole
Re: What is the real deal with adding hp to the srt-6
Rob's got all you need. As to what to do. Intake, single or double but with a budget go single. If you can get away with it in your state get the downpipes or delete the cat converters. Pulley and tune. Removing the cats doesn't make the car much louder but changes the tone to a lower range.
Les
Les
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Re: What is the real deal with adding hp to the srt-6
Pulley, you have the choose of crank or supercharger. Most will says, supercharger as they are easiest to change out. I went for what I could find being sold used cheap on the forum classifieds. I picked up a 181 Eurocharged Crank Pulley from a forum member that had upgraded to something else.
Got a remote tune and Eurocharged sent me the rest of the missing pulleys to work correctly for the 181 for next to nothing. Cut me a hetch of a deal due to my health concerns as apparently they are great guys.
I installed a wide band air fuel gauge just for insurance in where our ashtray is at (clean install, on here as well) , but it turns out it wasn't needed. But it is cool to look at.
Pulley, single cold air intake, and tune. I gurantee I have 90% of the performance of the guys that have gone all out. The difference is amazing. You really need to do all three together as they compliment themselves. I tried removing the resonators but didn't like the noise, louder but just didn't sound good. You'll find a lot posts on here about exhaust and how most didn't like what they did. Just the resonators would be fine if you didn't drive that much but I drive my car everyday. It got old on the interstate and it is hard to make our cars sound good. Its cheap to remove the resonators or secondary cats and you can always put them back on. I think I've heard better luck with the Cats and sound. I didn't notice any increase in performance actual, but sounds faster. I think the NW downtubes mentioned above have some dyno proven numbers but are high for me. If I had the money I would just buy everything from Needswings or Eurocharged, but I didn't and made it work without spending much. Probably got less that $500 in everything since EC cut me a deal on the remote tune. The car is day and night faster. You better have some good tires, if you have the stock continentals you will have interesting traction problems. I had to cut the traction control off as it is violent when it would engage all the time. I went with 285 wide Hankooks and stock size in front and never regreted it (Cost more than any mod made) . Made the car driveable again after the power you'll gain. I didn't install a supercooler, but did monitor my AIT with a cheap ultragauge (cool little device). I didn't install a bigger bosch pump (not problems with stock) I wish I had a drag strip time but I know the car is faster than my '02 Z06 and my '67 R/T (runs 12.4 at 112mph) just from seat the pants time. I have around 49,000 miles on the car and haven't had a single problem from the mods. I did have a altenator go bad on vacation but changed it out in the parking lot of autozone. The IC pumps are crap and will go out. I bought the car and the pump was destroyed. Ordered a ford lightning or cobra pump online and wired in place. Another savings (80 bucks). Enjoy the new power. If your going to be drag racing the car every weekend buy all the other stuff, intake manifolds, ported y pipes, and a supercooler or install meth. Otherwise, do the big three, pulley, CAI, and tune and drive it.
Got a remote tune and Eurocharged sent me the rest of the missing pulleys to work correctly for the 181 for next to nothing. Cut me a hetch of a deal due to my health concerns as apparently they are great guys.
I installed a wide band air fuel gauge just for insurance in where our ashtray is at (clean install, on here as well) , but it turns out it wasn't needed. But it is cool to look at.
Pulley, single cold air intake, and tune. I gurantee I have 90% of the performance of the guys that have gone all out. The difference is amazing. You really need to do all three together as they compliment themselves. I tried removing the resonators but didn't like the noise, louder but just didn't sound good. You'll find a lot posts on here about exhaust and how most didn't like what they did. Just the resonators would be fine if you didn't drive that much but I drive my car everyday. It got old on the interstate and it is hard to make our cars sound good. Its cheap to remove the resonators or secondary cats and you can always put them back on. I think I've heard better luck with the Cats and sound. I didn't notice any increase in performance actual, but sounds faster. I think the NW downtubes mentioned above have some dyno proven numbers but are high for me. If I had the money I would just buy everything from Needswings or Eurocharged, but I didn't and made it work without spending much. Probably got less that $500 in everything since EC cut me a deal on the remote tune. The car is day and night faster. You better have some good tires, if you have the stock continentals you will have interesting traction problems. I had to cut the traction control off as it is violent when it would engage all the time. I went with 285 wide Hankooks and stock size in front and never regreted it (Cost more than any mod made) . Made the car driveable again after the power you'll gain. I didn't install a supercooler, but did monitor my AIT with a cheap ultragauge (cool little device). I didn't install a bigger bosch pump (not problems with stock) I wish I had a drag strip time but I know the car is faster than my '02 Z06 and my '67 R/T (runs 12.4 at 112mph) just from seat the pants time. I have around 49,000 miles on the car and haven't had a single problem from the mods. I did have a altenator go bad on vacation but changed it out in the parking lot of autozone. The IC pumps are crap and will go out. I bought the car and the pump was destroyed. Ordered a ford lightning or cobra pump online and wired in place. Another savings (80 bucks). Enjoy the new power. If your going to be drag racing the car every weekend buy all the other stuff, intake manifolds, ported y pipes, and a supercooler or install meth. Otherwise, do the big three, pulley, CAI, and tune and drive it.
Re: What is the real deal with adding hp to the srt-6
This is the real deal to adding HP to the SRT
You can gain about 50-60 HP by doing the following:
1) Install a dual cold air intake from Needswings (Performance auto parts & aftermarket auto accessories for your car, specializing SRT4, Crossfire SRT6, SLK32, C32 AMG, VR-4)
2) Get a 62mm supercharger pulley from Rudy (rcompart)
3) Get an ECU tune from Eurocharged
These mods will put the extra "permagrin" on your face.
1) Install a dual cold air intake from Needswings (Performance auto parts & aftermarket auto accessories for your car, specializing SRT4, Crossfire SRT6, SLK32, C32 AMG, VR-4)
2) Get a 62mm supercharger pulley from Rudy (rcompart)
3) Get an ECU tune from Eurocharged
These mods will put the extra "permagrin" on your face.
Re: What is the real deal with adding hp to the srt-6
I disagree a little. 62mm S/C pulley could require more fuel and monitoring. A 65mm s/c pulley will work just fine without the extra fuel and monitoring. Any cold air intake will gain you HP, but the dual Needswings is what I like and run. You will need the tune after these installs to bring them together. There is always someone selling something on here less than new price. You just have to shop and be patient. I have bought a few things slightly used. But, that is up to you. I like to know what I am bolting on is in like new shape, so knowing the seller helps. Good luck.
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