The fuel check valve is built into our fuel pumps. When it goes bad, it leaks back fuel pressure into the tank and will create a hard(slower) start due to no pressure(fuel) at the injectors. When check valves go bad, you need to change out fuel pump, or install an inline check valve between the fuel pump and filter/regulator(Needswings sells these). As far as doing the leak down pressure test; search for the SRT6 service manual PDF in our Forum here. It will tell you exactly what to do (In English). Perhaps you need a better translator??
Good Luck.

 

and if they were the spark plugs? one or more of them would work badly?

 

My 67 Mini Cooper is positive ground.

 

This is my problem

 

What do ya think of THAT, '180?

 

What do you mean 180? I do not understand your question

 

I am asking onehundred80 what he thinks, he owns an SRT and knows these cars well.
I prefer to let him answer.

 

Ahh!!! Ok i undestand, thanks

 

If mine sounded like that I'd start with a compression check & look at the plugs. Does it happen only with a cold start ? Exhaust tips look oily. Popping is a definite misfire (note tach dipping but no jumping).

That sounds and looks mechanical and not electrical.

 

An obvious misfire. Has this car been tuned? Any codes thrown?

 

to misfire mean you can be the spark plugs bad? the problem occurs soloncon car stationary at least two days

 

to misfire mean you can be the spark plugs bad? the problem occurs only with a stationary car at least two days

 

how do you solve missfire? what it depends on and what should I do?

 

Could be one of many possible causes. I would disconnect battery, charge it fully, check all electrical connections including main grounds to body/chassis, spark plug wires and then reconnect and start it again.

 

the control wire and spark plug wires are not Enlarged to do it, I'll have it done for an electrician, disconnect the battery and fully charge it I've done that but to no avail good

 

[QUOTE=SparkieSRT6;773869]Could be one of many possible causes. I would disconnect battery, charge it fully, check all electrical connections including main grounds to body/chassis, spark plug wires and then reconnect and start it again.[/QUOTE
the control wire and spark plug wires are not Enlarged to do it, I'll have it done for an electrician, disconnect the battery and fully charge it I've done that but to no avail good

 

How well does it run when not at idle ? I would suggest taking it to someone who has an code scanner and knows how to use it.

For your sake I hope it is electrical but if that was oil on the exhaust tips in the video it is probably mechanical. If so I would at least have a compression test done and preferably a leakdown test if you can find someone who knows how.

If it only misfires at idle and has good power we can talk about other options.

 

Does this noise & roughness go away after it warms up? That noise sounds like broken up Cat Converters rattling around. And/Or, is a little bit of coolant leaking into the intake and runs rough until it burns off???

 

Cat rattle may be there but you can see the tach drop when it happens so is definitely a misfire. Now the question is "why" ?

For instance if you rev it in neutral then let it drop back to idle does it go away or come back ? When driving does it feel down on power or rough when accelerating particularly around 50 mph/80kph ?

Did it happen suddenly, of has it been coming on for a while ?

Does the exhaust tip have oil in it ? (Looked shiny/black in video).

Hate to be asking 20 questions but have to narrow it down. That video was brilliant and a real help. Thank you.

 

no do not go when it heats up, only if I use a starter after several attempts with higher voltage to the battery the car starts properly