Voltaggio (V) = 12
Avviamento Amps @ -18°C (A) = 815
Avviamento Amps @ 0°C (A) = 1000
Riserva di capacitą (Min.) = 100


YES! GOOD!

My battery Riserva di capacita = 90
The OPTIMA Riserva di capacita = 100 ........... it is better!

 

There is someone here who speaks Italian - I cant think of who it is, but I wish they were here now.

 

A Napa legend was in the wife's roadster when we bought it.. 880 CA @32 deg. 680 CCA @ 0 deg. It bit the dust after sitting a week during snow and mess.. charged it up and she ran it 3 days, then got parked for 4 days with more snow. It would not even hold a charge after that. The gentleman at Napa was kind enough to honor the 18 month warranty even though we were weren't the original purchasers. I'm an Autozone fan myself.. but the price was right for this one..

 

Reads the same in English, reserve capacity 90 minutes with one and 100 with the other. Imagine that is at 25 amps/80F/ and until it drops to 10.5v.

The batteries in my RV have a RC of 225 minutes or about a day and a half with just the fridge going.

 

Cold-cranking amps. CCA is a measure of a battery's ability to start a car at 0° F (-18 deg C).
Don't confuse CCA with CA, which stands for cranking amps at 32° (0 deg C) instead of 0°.

Reserve capacity minutes (RCM), also referred to as reserve capacity (RC), is a battery's ability to sustain a minimum stated electrical load; it is defined as the time (in minutes) that a lead-acid battery at 80 °F (27 °C) will continuously deliver 25 amperes before its voltage drops below 10.5 volts.

Note
80 degrees F. not 80 degrees C. Who's going to be starting a car at that temperature, I've heard of global warning but ........

 

Yea, but his "amps" he is asking about is a European rating that we dont' use in the USA (Do you use it up there?)

It's a different (and I think confusing) way of stating what we call "reserve capacity".

And I"m familiar with the two measurements, one at 0F and one at 32F.
See post 41.

The idea of my post was to include as little as needed, as the language barrier is obviously the problem here.
All the guy REALLY wanted to know, as I figured out after several posts, was if that battery met specs. My first visit to the link, I missed the chart I got those number from, and I did not think it was the right battery.

Upon returning to the site (And reading about this European amp-hour rating, which is required by law in the EU but not even talked about in the USA, I caught on.)

 

That is not why we need someone who speaks Italian.

 

I am now totally lost in what you are saying, I see the same figures and units.
Reserve capacity is differently stated ?
Battery Capacity. Battery capacity is shown as xxAh, Multiply Reserve Capacity by .6 to obtain the battery capacity.

These are all explained in my post of a few years ago. Read it, there will be a test on Monday.
Remember an amp is an amp.

 

This is what I got from Wiki:
1) Ampere-hours (A·h) is a measure of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_charge that a battery can deliver. This quantity is one indicator of the total amount of charge that a battery is able to store and deliver at its rated voltage. Its value is the product of the discharge current (in amperes), multiplied by the duration (in hours) for which this discharge current can be sustained by the battery. Generally, this value (or rating) varies widely with the duration of the discharge period (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peukert%27s_Law), therefore the value is typically only meaningful when the duration is specified. This rating is rarely stated for automotive batteries, except in Europe where it is required by law. Nominal capacity(A·h) by EN 60095-1 is rated at a fixed discharge current of I/20, within 20 hours until final discharge voltage of 10.5 V at 25 °C is reached.

2) Reserve capacity minutes (RCM), also referred to as reserve capacity (RC), is a battery's ability to sustain a minimum stated electrical load; it is defined as the time (in minutes) that a lead-acid battery at 80 °F (27 °C) will continuously deliver 25 amperes before its voltage drops below 10.5 volts.


Ok, so what is the relationship between these two measurements? Reserve capacity is easy, but I'm not following them here at ALL:
Nominal capacity(A·h) by EN 60095-1 is rated at a fixed discharge current of I/20, within 20 hours until final discharge voltage of 10.5 V at 25 °C is reached.

What the hell are they saying? What do they mean by "I/20"???

Or should I just read your other thread?

 

It may be coincidence but they have a figure of 1,000 amps and a division by 20 and they have a 50.
Avviamento Amps @ -18°C (A) 815 Avviamento Amps @ 0°C (A) 1000 Riserva di capacitą (Min.) 100 Capacitą (C/20) (Ah) 50

We have a figure in our system where we multiply by .6, who knows and who really cares as long as the car starts when we want it to.

 

I know but I was TRYING to understand their math - and I couldn't.

It makes me feel better that you can't, either.

 

Sounds like they a requiring a battery of given size to maintain a fixed rate of discharge (I) for 20 hours. I being different for each size. I have seen current (Amps) expressed as "I" before (have also seen power density expressed as I & J vectors but that is something completely different)

However I do not feel like spending 130 swiss francs to find the exact specification.

In the US we rate by how many minutes a 12v battery can maintain a 25 amp load without dropping below 10.5v at 80F. Apparently in the EU they rate by the reverse: what load can it maintain for 20 hours (1200 minutes) without dropping below a certain value. Sounds more appropriate for emergency lighting or an RV fridge.

Either way you come out with amp-hours.

 

Thanks to all for the help they are giving me, the problem is that with the red optima battery with the charger connected and voltage greater than 13.0 volts if the SRT6 remains stationary for 3/4 days (winter) 5/6 (summer) has equally to electronic problem at startup time, or 50 ha are very few and it takes at least 80 ha, or the battery is faulty, or I read in the specifications of the optima battery (battery r start power) is perhaps suitable for ignitions when 100% charge but installed on SRT6 that remains stationary for a week, unable to take advantage of the few amps 50 ah even if connected to a charger, the srt 6 as the original battery mounts a 75 700 ha acc

 

Maybe you had better explain what is happening. If the battery is not able to start the car after 5-6 days then either the battery is not holding a charge or something is draining the battery.

Try charging the battery fully, disconnect the negative lead and check the voltage after an hour. Let sit for 3-4 days (sounds like you can) and check the voltage again. It should not be significantly different.

This much is easy, from here it requires a bit more expertise.

Next put a load on it (100A is good) and see how much the voltage drops. This will tell you if the battery is bad or not.

Finally connect the battery and let sit with everything off for about a 1/2 hour. Connect a DVM in series on a 10A scale and lift the battery terminal. The DVM should now read the quiescent drain & should be less than 50 ma (I usually see about 20). 200ma will drain a battery in 3-4 days.

If there is a drain, I usually start pulling fuses until it goes away. If not then disconnect the alternator. Eventually the culprit circuit will surface.

All of this talk of CCA and Reserve and I/20 is just clouding the issue, there are larger factors at work here. Optima (and AGM in general, lately I have been getting Duracells but they went from $99 to $137 in a year) are very good batteries but can fail.

 

I have no tools to measure,
the strange thing is that I repeat to charge battery charger with over 13 volt car starts badly

 

Sounds like you are trying to start the car with a battery charger attached. Though I mentioned some posts ago you should never, never, never do that.

Modern car computers really do not like the trash a charger puts out (unless you have a special one, it does not put out DC, its more of a sorta half waver rectified ac component).

Little float chargers are usually OK but nothing over 5 amps. Period. If in doubt, use a jump box.

 

no no charger connected, then turn on

 

Based on post #13, I'm thinking O.P. may have a fuel delivery problem at startup, and THOUGHT he had a low voltage issue. Blueeyes - You need to do the tests that Padgett suggested, to rule out the battery, and/or find the drain. Buy an inexpensive digital voltage meter and just do it; or have someone else do it for you. I'm thinking now that it is merely a bad check valve and it's taking longer to start up than usual??

 

[QUOTE=dinasrt;773668]Based on post #13, I'm thinking O.P. may have a fuel delivery problem at startup, and THOUGHT he had a low voltage issue. Blueeyes - You need to do the tests that Padgett suggested, to rule out the battery, and/or find the drain. Buy an inexpensive digital voltage meter and just do it; or have someone else do it for you. I'm thinking now that it is merely a bad check valve and it's taking longer to start up than usual??[/QUOTE
]I changed the battery used a new 80 700 ha acc, constant voltage with voltmeter 12.8 for two days and no voltage is dropped after two days that the car has been stationary at startup I still had the problem injection, what do you mean for check valve? where it is placed in the SRT6? and how do I check if it is working properly?

 

Think he is talking about fuel pressure in the rail. Bad valve in the fuel filter will cause pressure to leak down quickly. There is a shraeder valve on the passenger side front of the engine visible when you remove the engine cover.

The pressure spec is about 50 psi. On mine it came up very quickly and when I turned the key off it stayed up for a half hour.

BTW I never had a HF fuel pressure gauge that would hold pressure so spent a bit more for one from Sears with a drain tube.

Just one more test to make. Must admit I still do not understand exactly what the car is doing wrong. Thought it want cranking, then it was running badly.