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Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
Tcu v-3 from v-tech arrived today. That was some serious fast shipping around the globe.
hopefully I will install that tomorrow. I’ll review it once I have lived with it for a while.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
Know you already purchased, but @CL770 is a Crossfire owner and member of our forum, and can supply excellent TCU tunes for our community. I have his tunes and can't recommend them enough.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
Originally Posted by nemiro
Know you already purchased, but @CL770 is a Crossfire owner and member of our forum, and can supply excellent TCU tunes for our community. I have his tunes and can't recommend them enough.
I will second that endorsement.
I currently have his TCUs in both my SLK32 (4-mode) and SL55. I had tried a variety of tunes in both of these cars in the past, but what I have now is definitely the best I have used.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
Excellent information. I went with a package deal from v-tech. Honestly the price was too reasonable not to try it. V-tech is going to do my ecu tune too. Waiting on a few parts to arrive to finish.
I spoke to a few people who used v-tech even some running nitrous. The experience with what timing works best in this scenario is valuable unless it’s just a simple remove 4 degrees. I’m willing to give them a shot with the references I got.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
I raised the ECU rev limiter to 6500. (Eurocharged) Bought a TCU that worked off the S/W switch. S was stock and W was full manual. The idea was rev the engine higher and shift later to take advantage of the higher redline. It didn't upshift until commanded. However, the upshifts were sooo sloooow in W that it negated any possible benefit from the control. I had to hit the shifter way early to avoid the limiter. The lag was such that I ended up shifting much to early to avoid the limiter. It never worked well enough to be of benefit on the road course or 1/4 mile. I still have that TCU in the closet (Evotech), epoxied shut). When I swapped out my ring and pinion for a 3:27, I purchased a tuned TCU from Rudy. (many years ago)) I never could tell any difference from a stock TCU.
If I bring my car out of retirement I'd most likely want to run 1/2 mile events or do some drag racing. Nitrous, perhaps. I'd want higher shift points and lightning upshifts. This car is my toy, not a daily driver. I dynoed my car with the Evotech TCU and ran it out close to 6300 rpm years ago and the power is still climbing at a 45º angle. Lots of power up there...lots.
Obviously I'm toying with the idea of returning to the racing scene and Eurocharged is no longer a tuning option and my TCU has me yawning. Therefore my interest in your tuning and project. I'm subscribed.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
Originally Posted by velociabstract
I raised the ECU rev limiter to 6500. (Eurocharged) Bought a TCU that worked off the S/W switch. S was stock and W was full manual. The idea was rev the engine higher and shift later to take advantage of the higher redline. It didn't upshift until commanded. However, the upshifts were sooo sloooow in W that it negated any possible benefit from the control. I had to hit the shifter way early to avoid the limiter. The lag was such that I ended up shifting much to early to avoid the limiter. It never worked well enough to be of benefit on the road course or 1/4 mile. I still have that TCU in the closet (Evotech), epoxied shut). When I swapped out my ring and pinion for a 3:27, I purchased a tuned TCU from Rudy. (many years ago)) I never could tell any difference from a stock TCU.
If I bring my car out of retirement I'd most likely want to run 1/2 mile events or do some drag racing. Nitrous, perhaps. I'd want higher shift points and lightning upshifts. This car is my toy, not a daily driver. I dynoed my car with the Evotech TCU and ran it out close to 6300 rpm years ago and the power is still climbing at a 45º angle. Lots of power up there...lots.
Obviously I'm toying with the idea of returning to the racing scene and Eurocharged is no longer a tuning option and my TCU has me yawning. Therefore my interest in your tuning and project. I'm subscribed.
Les
You would do well to talk to Andrew (CL770). I have done quite a few datalogs with his TCUs (primarily at full throttle) and I find my car shifts quickly and consistently at the RPM that I expected (with a logged variation of less than ±50 Rpm in 2-3 , 3-4 and in 1st-2nd shifts, about +0, - 100 ). He can also take care of any final drive ratio changes in your tune. You can reach him at andrew.tieken@gmail.com
Cheers,
Chris
Last edited by latemodel21; May 8, 2022 at 12:04 PM.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
I opted for the standard shift point in standard mode.
I thought about raising it in the ecu and tcu but figured with nitrous and a 65 mm pulley it was probably best to leave it shift at 6200. I’m sure there are some gains to be had up top if you could get it tuned to work smoothly. That or even higher iat s.
for 1/4 mile I plan on leaving it in standard and putting it in first and let it do it’s thing.
so far for street driving the manual mode is fun. I really like the no kick down aspect of it.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
When you're ready to step it way up, talk to Andrew ( @CL770 ). He will be able to make recommendations like shift improvement kits, blue tops, etc, for your application, and then supply you a tune that will really liven things up. His 4-mode TCU with Agility mode has to be experienced to be believed.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
Working with v-tech to get my tune close enough to put it on the dyno.
with a sl-55 pump and Needswings regulator and filter and 550 bosh injectors I am still very fat. Seeing low 10’s afr.
Are you guys hooking the can- boost signal to the regulator or leaving it off and running a consistent fuel pressure?
what pressure you guy running. At 58 psi it is too rich with the regulator port hooked up.
Going to try 55 psi and see what happens.
any input? Thanks
i did search and read a lot of information I’m not sure why it is so fat.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
Originally Posted by stryfox
Working with v-tech to get my tune close enough to put it on the dyno.
with a sl-55 pump and Needswings regulator and filter and 550 bosh injectors I am still very fat. Seeing low 10’s afr.
Are you guys hooking the can- boost signal to the regulator or leaving it off and running a consistent fuel pressure?
what pressure you guy running. At 58 psi it is too rich with the regulator port hooked up.
Going to try 55 psi and see what happens.
any input? Thanks
i did search and read a lot of information I’m not sure why it is so fat.
I am running a similar setup on my SLK32 with the same injectors, same fuel pump, and AEM regulator set up on the return from the fuel rail. I'm running at 60PSI with the the port open to atmosphere. I suspect that your tune just needs to be adjusted. But there is no reason why you can't lower your fuel pressure to get it closer. As an example when I Briefly ran the stock tune to go through smog I lowered my fuel pressure to about 40PSI and and my AFRs were pretty good.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
Originally Posted by latemodel21
I am running a similar setup on my SLK32 with the same injectors, same fuel pump, and AEM regulator set up on the return from the fuel rail. I'm running at 60PSI with the the port open to atmosphere. I suspect that your tune just needs to be adjusted. But there is no reason why you can't lower your fuel pressure to get it closer. As an example when I Briefly ran the stock tune to go through smog I lowered my fuel pressure to about 40PSI and and my AFRs were pretty good.
Chris
Thanks
When you leave the port open what do you do with the hose from the car plug it or leave it open to atmosphere?
I can try lower with it hooked up and higher with it disconnected tomorrow and observe some results.
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
Originally Posted by stryfox
Thanks
When you leave the port open what do you do with the hose from the car plug it or leave it open to atmosphere?
I can try lower with it hooked up and higher with it disconnected tomorrow and observe some results.
Actually, I just looked and I have the port on the regulator capped (not that it would make much difference, capped or open ... unless I was experiencing radical elevation changes, I suppose ).
what to do with the hose coming from the car ?
not sure where that hose originates (as it would have been added), but in theory it is going to your intake plenum, SO it must be plugged/capped.
It would be worthwhile asking your tuner if he wants your fuel pressure referenced to manifold pressure (but my guess would be "no")
Are you datalogging your AFR or observing it on a meter? I find that while my AFR drops from about 13.5 to 11.3 or so as I go from 10 psi to (my max of) 19-20 psi ... it will often briefly fatten up to 10.4 (as the throttle shuts).
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
I have a gauge on the regulator and one at the rail.
Either my gauges are not very good or I have a 6 psi drop from the regulator to the rail.
without being on the dyno I can only observe this at idle.
thanks for the help latemodel!
Re: SRT6 Nitrous revisited looking for experienced opinions
Originally Posted by stryfox
My tuner replied to leave port open.
I am not data logging. I am videoing my afr and boost gauges. Lol. Real high tech here.
Open might be better then capped though the difference will be slight. I have mine capped cause I am funny that way, and I assume that INJ PW is based on MAP and is already factors ambient air pressure. Bottom line, best to go with the tuner on this.
Videoing your gauges is FAR better than just observing them, HOWEVER, there may excessive "smoothing" built in (for a stable display) that detracts from accuracy . But, I expect you are fine.
Originally Posted by stryfox
I have a gauge on the regulator and one at the rail.
Either my gauges are not very good or I have a 6 psi drop from the regulator to the rail.
without being on the dyno I can only observe this at idle.
thanks for the help latemodel!
how close is your regulator to your rail?
are your gauges sealed? perhaps one has a different internal ref?
It is not critical that the 2 agree (as long as they are consistent). I am guessing they are both mechanical ? The one on the regulator is handy for observing any adjustment delta ... not sure how useful a second mechanical gouge on the rail is in this set-up.
On my set-up, I have a return line coming out of the forward end of each side of the rail and then on to the regulator which is about 24" of fuel line away. It has a mechanical gauge mounted to it and then excess fuel (bled off to maintain pressure adjustment) returns to the tank through the original fuel line. The new supply line comes from the SL55 pump and filter (mounted where original pump was) and enters the fuel rail at a fitting I added at the rear/center. The original rail inlet NOW serves as a mounting location for a 100 psi fuel pressure sensor that goes to my data logger. The log-ability is nice as I can see if I am having a fuel pressure issue while driving (eg as I approach WOT), but this sensor has failed twice over the years (in a spectacular , fuel all over the place, fashion .... ), so I often have it plugged off.