I have an srt6 that I have owned for a long time now I bought it off a forum member (mrphotoman) when a tree fell on my previous crossfire and totaled it.

I am looking to re do my nitrous system and get some good times. - my current system is just a dry shot I have jetted to 75? Spraying pre super charger. Really nothin fancy just a bottle/solenoid/and a switch. You hit it and it sprays not very safe I know. I only hit it in 3rd at WOT and hope for the best. I have not run the nos at the track. The one time I was there with it the bottle was empty.

I am looking to do a progressive controllable wet kit. I plan on using a Holley parts as I get a nice discount at work as we install many of their other products to resto projects.



My current car specs that I think are relevant are. Very Well maintained

Just under 50,000 miles

Code 3 pulley 65mm- no belt wrap kit- doesn’t currently slip

Inmotion tune-previous owner had done

Needswings dual cold air intake

Hollowed out rear cats and muffler delete

Meth injection-sprays at 8 psi before super charger

Fuel system-stock-just recently did updated fuel filter

Plugs ngk- iridium factory heat range

Some upgraded intake gaskets I got from rob at NeedsWings I don’t remember I think they are copper.

Oil Catch can

Isolated intercooler from coolant system

Upgraded intercooler pump

Tires are currently Michelin pilot sports- will need a sticky tire for track. Not sure what I want to try?

Boost and a/f ratio gauge I have hit 21 psi and a/f is safe

Car consistently runs low 12’s with meth injection to help cool and no nitrous with sticky tires (had Bridgestone pole positions on it when I tracked it) have a 4 season tire on it now.

I have no data logger…….







Planing on Holley NOS Mini 2-stage progressive controller- again I get a Holley discount unless someone has advice on why to use something else? I need to figure out how to wire this up to a MB product.

Holley multi-fit EFI single fogger wet kit for v-8 75-125hp



My Fuel system- am I going to need to run a new pump with return and a regulator? What options work well here? I assume I will be too lean if I stay with the stock setup. Does an sl55 pump need a return?



I will have it retuned so I’m sure of what I have.

Please discuss and chime in and help me figure this out. I only want to buy parts once, at least until I brake something then I will need more parts. Lol



I’d love to see a 10.9 so I can say it runs 10’s but that may be wishful thinking.

 

I've only had nitrous on one car, a 1991 Lotus Elan. I had it custom installed at a speed shop. It was a wet system with a NOS nozzle installed into each cylinder's intake tract just like your fuel-injectors are. He bent the tubing to run BOTH fuel and nitrous to each nozzle. Afterwards he "jetted" each nozzle so that the combination of nitrous & fuel was stoichiometric (neither rich nor lean). I had a WOT switch so the system only armed when I floored the gas pedal. There was also an RPM window-switch so it only armed within a certain RPM range. I used it for years. The only problem I ever had was that the bottle-heater didn't automatically switch off one time and it got so hot that the emergency pressure-release "cap" (just like a freeze-plug on an engine-block) blew and I had a very long & noisy nitrous release into my trunk. As I was in Florida I never reinstalled a bottle-heater again! The guy who installed it said that a multi-port nitrous system like that was the most reliable way to go.

P.S. Make sure someone REALLY CLOSE TO YOU can refill your bottle(s) with nitrous, as driving across town to get refills was the biggest pain in the ***. The farther you have to drive will determine how many bottles you want to have. Swapping the bottle out is super-simple.

 

tires --- get any tire with a wear rating below 280. ,,, slicks 0 to 20 ,,, drag radials 50 to 100 ,,,, most street tires 380 to 700 ,, mich pilot sport 4s 300, not bad but less than 300 is better

the liner in the supercharger can not take the chemicals in nitrus they say over time your SC will

https://www.prioritytire.com/kumho-ecsta-ps91-275-35r19-zr-100y-xl/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA3rKQBhCNARIsACUEW_azYjTygJhBjoGZtn4 88zdoGQ5smKyZWq2JI_GdEl5Vt5XBqa5xoRoaAqySEALw_wcB

 

Im going to update this a bit as I go. this is probably not going to be done for a few months but im planing and gathering parts.
I ordered a sl55 pump to give that a try.
I ordered some nice switches so I can start mounting them in the dash.
a bunch of the Holley parts are not due to arrive until almost April........
I did find my pink tach signal wire on plug #3 on the ECM that I am going to need for the progressive controller. that's a start.
going to go with the nos wet fogger, progressive 2 stage controller. bottle warmer, purge valve.
I have not picked a fuel pressure safety sender yet, I think that's probably a smart safety add on.
I also think ill use tps voltage instead of a mechanical WOT switch.

anyone is welcome to chime in.....

 

Wiring plan for Nos mini progressive controller with purge valve and fuel pressure safety switch. I am going to do a bottle heater too but that is separate and the diagram that will come with it is simple so I didn't draw it,



need to figure out which wire for tps. I assume ill have to move the butterfly manually with the key on to read voltage?

 

Have new switches mounted. Still waiting on more parts.
meth injection
nos arm button
bottle heater
purge button. Momentary switch that matches the other toggling ones. Only has power when nos is armed.
next step is battery relocation.

 

progress.

Battery relocated to passenger side trunk.

 

Is the battery vented outside of the trunk?

 

NICE cubbyhole for the battery! Just one suggestion? With that metal tie-down so close to the POS junction post, maybe it would be possible to turn the battery around so the POS cable is towards to center of the car (more room in case of the tie-down movement, being as the junction box POS post is so close to the tie-down). Yes, I can see the plastic cover on the junction box however I do not know how much or where that tie-down is secured and if a vibration could move/shatter that plastic cover.


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Old battery location, jump start lugs/fuse box and relays all ready my to mount nitrous, fuel and purge solenoids when they arrive.

going to rewire hid headlamps to new relays at fuse box too. That’s next.

 

no. I ordered an optima sealed dry battery it did not come yet but I need to get to work on Monday.

 

i have an optima battery on the way. I’ll verify the mount is good when I put that in. 👍

 

Nicely done there. Was it a pain to route the new battery cables from the rear to the front; seat removal,drillling,etc.? Lumps in the carpet? What size cables did you use?

 

Which Optima battery did you go with? I have thought about relocating my battery to the same place, to free up room for a water tank for a Killer Chiller.

 

I’ll double check as I had the office parts guy order it for me. I believe an h6 size yellow top.
we stock dekka batteries but I want one I don’t need to bother venting.

I ran the cables up the passenger side. No holes had to be drilled. Did not take out passenger seat. Removed sill plate, kick panel and under dash cover.
there is a rubber grommet under the battery tray by the factory amplifier location that you can run them through. I used 1gauge. 300 amp fuse at new battery.

 

Still waiting on parts but got the exhaust cutouts installed.

 

Parts trickling in.
installed the Needswings pulley saver kit and a scatter shield today.

 

Still waiting on parts….
got front and rear brakes done. Cut rotors and stainless steel brake hoses.
power stop z-23
stop tech hoses

installed sl55 fuel pump that took 10 minutes tops.

 

Nice progress!! How are you going to put all that torque to the ground once you've implemented the nitrous? You can see from my sig that I've got LSD and awesome tires, and without nitrous, it still spins the tires like Vegas roulette LOL!

 

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Just a quick question? Is that shock having something rubbing along the outside of it (wheel side)? Am curious...


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