Anyone know where I can get one? I need it to get the crank pulley bolt out. Impact wrench didn't do it. Searching Google gave me many hits, in Europe. I'll hit the dealer up Monday I've got the car up on stands to remove the starter. Then I'm off to locate a set of torx sockets for the bolt heads. I didn't think I would need all new tools to work on the Crossfire. That's ok though, as it seems it will be easy to work on, when I have all the right tools.

 

Try Snap-On tools, also Kragen or AutoZone has weird factory tools which they rent. Otherwise MBZ dealer, I'm sure if they both snap-on and mbz sell the tool the price will be close between them.
I think your best bet would be the Yellow Pages, try finding a bolt removal service Company.
They might end up destroying the bolt but it may be cheaper than the tool and MBZ might even recommend that you replace the bolt anyways.
Good luck on that, and let us know what you find Ay!

 

Did you try putting a cheater bar over your breaker bar? How are you keeping the crank from rotating?

 

that's why he needs the locking tool to lock the flywheel... my guess is its a lock for the starter gear/flex plate... it will hold it for him so he can use a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt...

i say get a bigger impact gun. 600 ft lbs of tra tra tra ...

 

My question is, Why are you pulling the flywheel, did you find a resource for a lightweight one ?

 

I can' t fit anything larger than my 1/2" drive impact with 27mm socket into the space between the radiator and the harmonic balancer. I want to stay away from major disassembly. After removing the starter, the flywheel locking goes into that space to hold the flywheel, preventing the crank from rotating. Then I can apply suitable breaker bar/cheater force to remove the bolt. Lastly, the factory service manual tells me that I only have to replace the bolt if the measured length is over 78mm.

After I bought the factory manuals, I wondered why, what with all the electronic/computer stuff they contain. They are a very good source of mechanical type stuff, after you weed through and find it. For instance, when replacing the harmonic balancer bolt, the spec. is to lubricate the threads with oil, then tighten the bolt to 200 N-m (148 ft-lb), then tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees clockwise. That last comment helped me to know the darn thing wasn't left hand thread.

 

Finally, an update of sort. After visiting a local "five star" dealer, and having them refuse to sell me the flywheel locking tool. Them -"We don't sell tools". Me "But it's in the factory service manual. How would you suggest I get one? I want to do this myself". Them "we don't sell tools".

Searching the Internet gave me pages, in Europe, for purchasing one.

I went back to another, true, Five Star dealer that has helped me in the past, and I have bought more than a few vehicles from (should have called there first but I'm sooo far from them driving time). I just received their shop tool to use, and return when I'm done. That tool, and a 5 ft cheater on my breaker bar got the harmonic balancer bolt loose. I have to get ready and go to work, so, more later.

 

Do you have any pictures of the tool? I'm curious as to how it attaches to the part.

 

It would be basically a plate with a gear like imprint of steel on it (partial gear welded to the plate) and set so that it engages the flywheel when bolted in place.

I've seen these before, they are actually quite easy to make, you just have to take a clay mold of the flywheel gear.

My process is to put some non-hardening modeling clay on a plate (usually a single bolt head or some such to anchor the blob of clay) and push the plate gently into the starter position. Remove it and you have your pattern for the tool. Machine the part and weld it or bolt it to the plate.

For the home builder/mechanic, I'd bolt it to the plate, just in case you need to add washers to get it offset a little differently.

Cheers!

 

No pictures, but yes, it's a small gear segment that engages the flywheel after removing the starter. Rather than being bolted in, it has 2 machined pins that go through the bolt holes. The gear segment is machined, and the pins appear to be threaded in after the machining. It slipped in easily after aligning the teeth on the flywheel, but the tolerance is close, as there is no play in either the gear, or the pin to bolt fit.

 

If anyone can draw this thing up, I can make it.
We have a wire EDM that can cut profiles to within microns (.001 ish mm)
May be a handy tool to have for the future.
Let me know if anyone can accurately draw or design the part.

 

Yeah try Xeroxing it next to a ruler, or put it on your flatbed scanner. This should give you a perfect profile.

 

Well, I'm all done, reassembled, and road tested. All I can say is OH BOY... What a difference. Renntech has made me a believer in their upgrades. The pulley change and computer upgrade makes my SRT-6 unbelievable. Now how do I completely turn off the traction control? Sometimes it would be nice to "show off a little" with clunky little old V-6.

Is it a matter of pulling fuses? Flipping the button to off doesn't do it.

 

Sounds good, let us know when you get some 1/4 mile times.

I forget which fuses are pulled to completely shut down the traction control, all I do is disconnect the hot lead to the ESP/ABS unit, that way you can get sideways without ESP cutting into the fun. One of these days I'll have to make a relay that allows me to flick a switch and shut it all down from the drivers seat.

 

Pull fuse # 17 + 18 in the driver side fuse box, or #3 up from the bottom, on the right hand side (as you're looking at it) in the ECU fuse box.

 

Thank you HDDP. Pulled the 2 fuses, and had fun Sunday. Kind of brings back memories of my '71 Duster 340 4 spd, except for the autostick.