yes we know it has been done we where talking about how much it would cost to do a srt swap..

 

This may be a crazy idea.............why don't you e-mail HDDP and ask him?

You may not get an answer right away, Derek's a very busy person, but I'm more than sure he'd let you know how much he's already spent on the project.


BTW.......swapping out the trunk from a Limited and wiring up the neccessary controls for the spoiler is WAYYYY cheaper than trying to swap in a SRT engine or turbocharge a Limited.

Just my $.02 though.

 

I do not think the trunk was as much of a concern as the manual trans, I am not 100% but am assuming this would be quite an undertaking as well??

Can our manual trans handle 350-400 HP?

 

The problem with mixing and matching transmissions, manual for auto and vice versa, is that the PCM still looks for inputs from the transmission. You'd have to find a way to fake the computer into believing the same type of transmission is there. It's wired into the stability programming, security system, as well as the powertrain module. This was one of the big reasons HDDP went with the Bosch controller, you don't have to worry about that stuff anymore.

The flex-plate has a different bolt pattern than the flywheel where it mates up to the crankshaft.

A SRT swap is no problem if you take every last piece of the mechanical parts as well as every bit of electronics. After all, the body dimensions are the same SRT to non-SRT, but every single thing under the hood and how it operates is different.

As far as knowing if the manual trans is up to the power of the SRT engine....I have no idea. HDDP did it after a LOT of effort and money, but his is a track car, he expects things to break.

 

i think the most cost effective and easiest way to mod the car would be get the 3.8l short block with a 9:1 compression ratio that should do around 400 hp and then in the future once they have figured out the electronics about adding a piggy back or modding the stock ecu using the method recommended by Kanzus and then you should have around 500hp-550hp using a turbo or a blower. Of course along the way the transmission, suspensions, brakes, and other stuff will need to be replaced for added power and weight.

 

WAIT WAIT WAIT, hold the phone.

I think I'm gonna cry.

Did i just read somewhere that my manual trans wont bolt-up to the srt-6 engine?

I want to do a swap and put the srt-6 engine in my '04 limited. utilizing a piggy-back system from split second to account for added boost. (missing link)

But now i think i read that i cannot do this because the engine will not bolt-up to my manual trans, please someone tell me this is a bad dream.

Thanks,

Justin

 

It will bolt right up and has been done before by HDDP.

 

Awesome, i just went through all 15+ pages of HDDP's swap story on the forum.

Thanks for the reply.

Justin

 

You guys talking about the ECU realize that you could have an AEM stand alone ECU installed and tuned for less than $2k?

 

House of power has also had success using piggy back systems.

 

house of power used the split second piggy back system, on their MBZ project. slapping a supercharger on a N/A 430 V8.

their piggy back system is like $300 and that includes the software.

thanks,

Justin

 

I spoke to Freddy at STS yesterday and he mentioned that there are two Crossfires running their system. One in south Carolina and one in Louisiana. Once the V8 is running, this may be a way to make it really scary. The sound of the turbo in the rear makes the car sound like a cross between a regular engine and a jet engine. Here is a link they sent me:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzUB95N4tDQ

 

I have a Greddy E-manage blue that I could use for this build, But i think I'm going to build slow. For now just port my intake, larger TB..etc. Just prep my motor to handle a turbo and make some power at the same time.

 

I think it is funny how people always make this sound soo impossible.

but if you just get out there and do it, it can all be done.

Thanks,

Justin

 

i do not like the idea of the turbo under the car in the rear for safety reasons what happens if i bottom out and hit a hole or something where the turbo will be located i am worried. what about relocating the battery to the rear and putting a turbo in that area or relocating the overflow tank and putting a turbo in that area. if we can just get a custom piggy back then i do not see the issue with just fabricating some piping and fitting a turbo. what is the highest pounds of boost we can run using the piggy back. i figure stock engine should do 8lbs-12lbs of boost and more if you get the forged internals.

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I don't know how he remedied the situation........but again I say the bolt pattern is different.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...t+bolt+pattern

 

We are both right. I was referring to the bellhousing and you are referring to the flywheel. If there is a difference in the flywheel pattern, I would try to get the flex plate from the s/c donor engine and then find a flywheel that will bolt up and take the new flywheel and old flex plate to a machine shop that builds engine and make sure the new flywheel has the same balance factor and the flexplate.

 

I kind of like the idea of putting the turbo in the rear. Since you really don't need a muffler you could put right behind the rear end center section at the very begining of the muffler tunnell and then run pipes and tips out the normal exit. since I don't hit my muffler, I don't think a turbo is in any danger.

 

I believe HDDP just used a different flywheel from another MB vehicle and it bolted right up. as far as strength he just used a Spec stg 3 clutch.

 

It should also be pointed out that HDDP's car is a dedicated race car, so I wouldn't be very concerned about standing up to street use.