Going out on a limb and gonna say that rogue connector is for the hood ajar switch. If those wires are brown and brown/red that's your guy. Not sure why its showing 8v across the circuit though so perhaps that is why it's disconnected. How are you measuring it and what is the resistance to the chassis when you test it to the ground lug where all the brown wires on the driver side inner fender bolt to? Make sure you have a good, clean ground when you test it.

Good luck

 

Definitely not the wire hanging down in the picture. The wire hanging down with a connector at the end of it is the external temperature sensor. It has a nice home in the bumper, driver's side, in the lower louvre. Since the bumper is off it just hangs down. The connector on the external temperature sensor looks like a game piece from 'Sorry'.

 

rcompart, I posted pics of the plug in a previous reply on page 1. Take a look if you will. I chased it back as far as I can, it splits from a huge group of wires that feed into this amp looking thing in my first photos. It's not brown, it's two orange wires, one with a red stripe. I tested the ground very well, I had a bad one at first and wasn't getting a read, but after getting a solid ground, I am getting close to 8V solid.

Also, I have 2 sets of wires with 2 plugs each running to the horns. I don't think this is what this is for. Also, it has that rubber gasket like piece on the inside of the connector, like the wires that run to the ignition coil packs, presumably to keep water out of the connector.

I've pretty much ruled out most of the ideas thus far, unless it's for a fog light and all base n/a models have this wire sitting around... but I looked on the passenger side and there doesn't appear to be one there, although, it's much harder to look on that side (it's possible I could have missed one).

 

I'd look at those wires very closely because if the wires are indeed orange, then it isn't factory as there are only 3 wires in the entire car (save the sheathing on some SRS components) that color and they are for the accelerator pedal sensor ground, the convertible top secondary solenoid power and the rear bow switch which doesn't hardly even count as is an orange stripe on a green wire. I'm trying to help you but you're not giving me much to work off and telling me to go back and look at the only picture of the connector in the first post of your thread is like telling me to **** off after asking twice for you to shoot some better pictures of the connector and some of the front of it. The keying on center of the connector tells a lot about what the connector is for.

 

Not telling you to **** off! I appreciate the help, I didn't think you saw the pictures, that's why you were asking, I didn't know they were bad. I did take 2 pics of it, different angles. I thought they were pretty good pictures too. I'll take some more, one second...

 

rcompart, I made a video instead! I hope this helps... Thanks a lot for the help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQNOi_gWsjA

 

Thank you. I can tell you with 100% certainty that you're holding the hood ajar switch connector. Why it's not connected I wouldn't have a clue. Good luck with it and sorry if I came across a little harsh. Just frustrating when you're sure you know the answer but you don't have enough info to be absolutely sure.

BTW, that first picture makes that connector look a lot larger that it really is due to the perspective of the shot and that's why I was having trouble identifying it and wanted a shot of it from the front.

Take care

 

Would you happen to know where it goes? The hood latch seems to be working fine, I think... I mean, it unlatches... with the cable, assuming like an old school throttle cable... What's electronic about this? The hood latch cable is standard, right? That isn't something that is just on mine?

Sorry for all the questions, just confused as to where it goes, I've looked everywhere...

 

Good one Rudy, I never did get an answer to the question about the wire running with latch cable to the front of the radiator. I guess that was it though.
Sometimes you get a bit frustrated with no info or not enough info.
The latch itself may have or may have once had a switch which would show a light or beep if the hood is not locked down properly.
Who ever repaired the car probably forgot to thread it through before the radiator was bolted into position.

 

Are you guys hood latches electronic? Mine has a red lever inside the cabin, bottom left of the steering column, and it's def not electronic. There is nothing electronic around the hood latch itself either... I'm confused...

 

If there is or was a switch the hood would operate it. It's probably on the latch as that's where the wire reaches to.

 

My hood latch is 100% non electronic, the cable pulls the latch with human force, by pulling the lever from inside the cabin in the car. It's possible that I have some sort of after market replacement hood latch system and you guys have an electronic one though. I don't know, that's what I was getting at.

 

Read what the posts say not what you think they say.
The latch is manually operated and there is a switch that gives a signal if the hood is not slammed shut. It's a safety feature, get it now?

In future try and give all the facts, model year, model and all relevant info not let it come out bit by bit.

If it was a medical issue you were explaining to a doctor you could be dead by now.

 

I thought that's what you might be getting at...

I have the 2005 Base Coupe, and there aren't any electrical elements anywhere around the latch aside from the horns... I wish I could just look at someone else's, I'd be willing to bet mine is just different for some reason. *sigh*

 

Rudy,
Looking at the connector style shown in the service manual it dosent match the pic from the car... but that IS the only connector that uses those colors.... it probably is brown and brown/red.... not orange... and it likely is in the right area for the hood ajar...though I have never seen that one... (and I have driven with my hood un-latched a couple of times....)

 

The service manual pictures are a little deceiving as some of them are shown from the front, some are shown from the back and the only reason I know that the hood ajar switch uses that connector was that I hit a deer with my last car and had to replace my upper and lower radiator supports. The switch isn't to let you know your hood is up but rather to set off the alarm if the hood opens when the car is locked. They definitely had the ability to make a little dash light for our cars so it's a shame they didn't. Most certainly would have been a useful feature.

 

you beat me to it...it is for security, not to tell you you didn't close the hood all the way. Remember, if you try to tow the car, open a door, or the hood, so on and so forth...the alarm will sound...probably why it had voltage to it, because it wasn't making a connection. Once connected, the voltage shouldn't be there because it has made a circuit. Just the opposite of what you would think, but that's how an alarm works.