Where have you all been buying the MB parts from? I know enough about cars to do intakes and stuff, but I don't want to stray too far from what this guy described. I keep finding universal parts rather than OEM replacements. Any ideas?

 

Ebay was my source.

 

[QUOTE=onehundred80]Parts to do this modification are:

Mercedes engine cover #A 112 090 11 01


My engine cover is: # A 112 094 00 04 so it looks like this will be very useful info. I'll pick up the intake hoses today!
Thanks a gazzillion!
PACEMAKER

 

Here are more details about them than you'd ever think you'd want to know:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...2-screens.html

Driver's side is a snug fit, but snug = good. I still used band clamps on both sides, for added insurance.

The TVT pipes were much sexier but these flow enough for me not to notice a difference, and the heat retention of the MB pipes is MUCH lower. I can make a hard run, pop the hood, and lay my hand on them. You could never do that with the metal pipes.

 

A 112 090 11 01
is this the only cover that works?? will this work??..112 090 05 01 ...im not trying to stray but cant find that part number...do you have to got to the larger tb and maf or can you just mount the cover??

 

The SLK 320 engine cover is A112090 05 01 is a one part cover. It uses the same filters as the Crossfire, no benefits to be had with it.
The cover fits the OEM MAF no problem.

 

so upgrading everything will improve performance?? or just buy the slk cover for cosmetics, correct??

 

Yes and yes.

 

so what is involved with the tune that everyone is talking about? eurotune? what is the hp and tq increase on changing the tb's with the tune?? and a big THANKS for the info...sorry im the new guy with a lot of interest

 

I feel you... well there is this : https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...able-sale.html

 

The Eurocharged site states an increase from 215hp to 239hp on an otherwise stock engine. (Mind you this is crank horsepower, not at the wheel) The bigger TB by itself is not going to give you any real gain in power, but it starts to eliminate weak spots in the power band when you accelerate. But if you have it tuned they might be able to squeeze a few more ponies out of it.

What I'd like to know is how this engine cover mod compares with the NeedsWings intake in terms of power.

 

A 112 141 01 25 is the OEM 68mm TB I took off my XF when I installed the A 113 141 01 25 74mm TB! I am sitting here looking at the OEM one right now.

 

Is the A113 141 03 25 an option with our cars? I found one for sale around 175$.

 

Hey, can someone show me a link to purchase the correct 74mm TB and O-ring.. I have a N/A 2006 crossfire and do not know much on how to surf the internet. thanks!!

 

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/O-RING/6670120/05102933AA.html

That's where I got mine.

 

Bump for good info and I got the mod done a couple weeks ago. Used the instructions from the 74mm PDF for that part. Engine cover is pretty self explanatory although getting those intake tunnel bracket thing things out is a pain in the ***.

Results: I can feel a difference but I can not really see one on the ultra guage. (Looking at MAF 1/2 numbers at a given throttle position) Readings seem to be the same although I don't know how good of a test that is. It definitely pulls harder up top than it used to, revs climb nice and smooth all the way to red where before you could feel the drop off up top. Throttle is a bit more responsive although not an earth shattering difference/change.

Couple questions:
1. Did you do anything to secure the passenger side tube, the passenger side hole is much larger than the driver side so the tube is free to move about in there. (All directions)

2. Did you find a way to get the driver side tube through the hole? Mine is jammed up in there but it seems a bit to long as its kind of bending at the connection to the air box.

3. Does the drivers side of the cover get hotter than the passenger? After driving I can put my hand on top of the passenger filter box and it is cool, driver side is warm/hot. I feel like the old silver box was just warm all over. Just thought this was a bit strange.

Thanks for all the info guys!

 

Starting to get P0170 and p0174 codes now. Pulled MAF out (original) and cleaned it yesterday with MAF cleaner, cleared and code came back at lunch today. Idle is great and feels like more power up top but still getting the codes. Light seems to come on after driving for a while and coming to a stop(red light/turn) everything seems tight. There were some gaps around the elbow/MAF connection initially when I put everything together but it does not seem to be leaking anywhere and it's tight after another removal/install. I feel like I can hear a hiss while the car is running but it's all over, I can't really say where it's coming from. I tried to do the incense test but didn't see anything suspicious. With engine cover on if I plug the holes the engine starts to die and it does not seem to be sucking air from elsewhere so not sure what else to try. I ordered another o ring from MB, should be here tomorrow (I used a new one initially) only thing I have not done is taken the TB off to check that the ring is good. Looking at the MAF values in the ultra guage the numbers look like stock at a given TB position.

 

Just updating for info. Light went out by itself but came back again only now I'm getting some strange readings on the ultra guage. Usually idle is throttle position 1.18/1.5 to 1.9-2.3 depending on warm/cool and AC on off. These values were the same before/after the swap and the MAF readings around the same as well. Now in getting throttle % at like .36 to 0 at idle with MAF numbers in the 2.8 - 3.1 range which was closer to the 1.9% throttle position before. Probably going to bite and take everything back off, clean, new o ring and then all back together again. Still does not seem to be running bad but something is not right.

Was kind of happy to see lower TB% with higher MAF numbers as that is what I thought I should see initially with the change but don't think the throttle should be closed fully at idle...

 

Think I have it fixed, some more time to be sure but feeling good.

Took it all apart again. Cleaned TB with TB cleaner, cleaned MAF again, cleaned flanges, started putting everything back, seated ring well, torqued TB and tripple checked all hoses and connections.

1 thing I would advise is when putting the elbow on is to get the bottom clip done and tight first before the top. You will never be able to really tell if it is nice and snug down there otherwise. Also the little white hose going to the firewall got pulled loose after messing around down there, make sure that's tight.

Now once I test drove it the idle TB% numbers were lower but this seems to be the way it should be now (and what I expected initially) idle tb% is .7 - 0 now but MAF readings are 3 -3.2 where before 1.9% TB was needed to get those numbers. (Was usually 2.5-2.6 g/s @ 1.18-1.57%)

When it was acting up there was a noticeable but slight bog/delay in the 2K RPM range. That's no longer happening. Also at 100% throttle I was not getting into the 150 g/s range for MAF readings like I was at stock. 140s was the highest. Now it's back in the 150s.

If someone else has the ultra guage or other device that shows TB and MAF readings it would be good to know what you are seeing for comparison. I did a video of the readings pre upgrade and will do another for comparison as soon as I feel like everything is right.

 

I'm looking forward to improve my XF and I also have the same question :-)

Needswings+74mm TB seems more like a straightforward and solid solution. Is this just the DIY/fun/cheaper alternative or are there any other reasons to opt for this mod?

Thanks all. I love this forum!