V6 Kits:

1. Tighed1 (First Prototype)
2. 05roadsterguy (Second Protype)
3. Bri3D
4. Bill00
5. bjames
6. JONCTOVAR I took this spot
7. 2005 Ragtop
8. sk8erjosh09
9. Frankeyser
10. Airscape
11. steven 4190
12. Guelph
13. Crossfire6412
14. XFactorXXL
15. crosseduphwy101
16. XF newbie
    
17. Erzer (tenative)
18. Xalidin (maybe)
19. dtinker (possible)
20. BoilerUpXfire (if needed)
21. Mrmiata - probable onsite install
    

V8 Kits

1. LantanaTX - Corky will fit me in sometime after kit production begins

If changes need to be done to this just repost

I'm now wondering if they are even still looking at a second prototype..?

 

That's the price of this kit isn't it?

 

Does any one have any idea on the gauge location?? Pillar perhaps, and if so do they make a side pillar with holes for the guages? I want this to look as close to factory as it can be.

 

square boost pressure Gauge, velcro anywhere, size of a keychain remote. Digital boost pressure gauges in a square package will read boost pressure in PSI. Turbocharger boost gauges in a square package. - Square boost pressure gauge, velcro anywhere,

Not a fan of the price.. but like the green back light option. Should be able to find an acceptable dash location with it too.

 

I may be the only one, but i would think less ground clearance is gonna be a big deal. It takes alot of work to never scrape the bottom of the front fascia already...although i've never had any trouble with clearance anywhere else on the car, less ground clearance doesn't sound fun to me at all.

 

It wouldn't hurt my feelings to see an oval to round transition segment in that position. Get some clearance back that way.

 

My car is pretty low and I have downpipes that hang lower than the stock exhaust. I scraped them a few times in the beginning being reckless but not since. I find it hard to scrape the front fascia. The overhang is so short it shouldn't be a problem unless you pull all the way into a parking and hit one of those concrete stops. Our cars are short enough not to have to pull all the way forward in a parking lot and were still further forward than just about anything else except a Fiat 500 or the like.

Les

 

Not a conversion, but the turbo kit is not an installed price either, hell, it isn't even a shipped price. A GOOD, low mileage motor can be found for $3,000 to $4,000 with the necessary accessories, if you look hard enough...

Might be a little more of a challenge, but I enjoy a good challenge from time to time. Also, having several friends that wrench for a living is a plus

I am still considering the turbo, don't get me wrong, but something about the sound and grumble of a V8 is almost primal...

 

Surprised no one else has noticed the charge pipe being within an inch of the swaybar...

The swaybar flexes and slides back and forth on the rubber mounts. The first time you hit a pothole...

 

I noted that, Just didn't comment figuring they would be well aware of clearance requirements. I give them credit to knowing a custom fit contour after 500 miles would not be an accepted method.

 

On the rack, it's *just* a fit. But since they haven't driven the car with the pipes in place, the forces encountered can't be replicated on a rack (or forecasted, for that matter). Even if you put a fat boy on the end of a pry bar...

I'm optimistic in their inherent knowledge as well, but I'm pessimistic in my hands-on experience playing with the suspension (something they arguably don't do).

And if you're lowered? Fuhghettaboutit. The swaybar links are long... and when you drop the car an inch (with springs), the swaybar ends are static so they simply push the ends of the swaybar "up" however much the springs drop the front. Judging by the pics, there's ~1" clearance.

I hope I'm wrong.

 

Trial and Error - But I do agree this really looks like a Trail that is going to end with an error. I have no experience playing with our suspension, but based on other encounters I'd say this is going to be a hit..

 

Yea that is looking a bit tricky, I'm not sure how much that part of the bar moves when loaded. I may need to stick my phone up in the front well for some video. With 1 dots in back I had a finger and a bit gap up front. When I put 3s in back I have less than a finger. I'm not sure how much of a difference this makes on the sway position but I assume it has a bit more load on it now so less travel but not sure where it is sitting static. Have been needing to do more work with the rear setup so may take a look all around.

 

If I was granted one request it would be to get rid of that plastic MAF housing

 

+1 most lost it long ago anyway...

 

Agreed on the MAF housing, a powdercoated pipe with the MAF bung welded in (old-school NW style) would be best.

I went back and reviewed the photos of the swaybar, the mounts that are near the pipes are fixed to the body. So, those won't flex. The outboard ones near the hub are the ones that flex/slide. And no links up front, I was thinking rear ones. The front utilizes the lower control arm/sliding bushing mount.

More Red Bull for me.

Just be damn careful you guys don't hit a road gator, that's all I have to say. Kerbstones on a road course would be pretty rude as well.

 

This is why I have been bringing up clearance issues since day 1

 

Look on the bright side, at least you'll be able to enter the corner hot, until you hit the apex.

 

Just as a side note.. I have a 2006 limited manual crossfire(completely stock) and live literally right down the street from Corky's place.. If he has a need to look at another car(he looked at my car originally), Just drop me a message and I can work on getting him the car for a few hours(its my daily driver so I can't leave it with him for an extended period of time unfortunately).

 

Try Member Grip Grip or the search .