Thanks in advance for your expertise. Driving 144 MPH I let off the accelerator while in 6th gear. The traction control indicator turned on and the color was orange (not yellow). All other warning lights came on while the car was in-gear. The car started right after I came to stop and cranked it.

The engine has 40K miles (replaced under warranty). The car has 70k miles. No CEL were illuminated before or after the engine cut out. Fuel filter was replaced ~10 k miles ago. Some of the gas in the tank was 6 weeks old.

Any ideas? If something is wrong I would like to fix but I am no longer in the mood to recreate the failure.
Thanks again,
Tyler

 

Yank the Relay Control Board out and resolder every pin and connection on it.

Sounds like the Fuel Relay or Engine Control Relay path to me.

 

+1^ or CPS.
But it could be a guardian angel.

 

Good one^^

 

Change my answer to Dave's

 

Nope. Perhaps those with that answer have not ever been traveling at 144 MPH...... I don't know. But having one's engine quit at 144 MPH is NOT an angel saving your @ss.


Think it thru guys.


GEEZ.

 

Maybe I did not get the order of events right as nothing dramatic happened. I was done accelerating and may have even taken the car out of gear before the engine went to 0 RPM while out of gear.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will get to work.

 

If you took the car out of gear at that speed and free wheeled I would imagine the car might get confused. especially with the wheels traveling fast and the engine not in sync with it.
The little black box probably said to itself "WTF".
Edit;
Applies to manual and auto transmissions.

 

I would suggest onehundred eighty has your answer. Unless the car was a manual shift.


If you are autoshift then I agree with the ECU's decision...at 140 MPH......WTF?

 

It would have helped to know all of the details in the first post.

But then, this is the way it goes here - which is why I've stopped repsonding to posts asking for help until others (180 mostly) come in and start asking questions to get more details. I guess I'm getting tired of working so hard to try to help people. Maybe when I retire and am bored...


And if I have to define the electrical term "short" one more time my head is gonna explode.

 

Why would it apply to a manual tranny?


I down shifted mine at those speeds, meaning I went to neutral yes, with no issues.


Explain please.

 

The clutch was never let out with no gear engaged = free wheeling.
Pushing the pedal in disengages the cruise control and hence the pedal must be tied into the ESP/BAS and ABS systems, probably even when the cruise is not being used.
I am not sure but it is just an idea.

 

Sorry No. As you know, because you have chastised me for it, I always double clutch. I certainly would do so at those high RPMs.


And I did. Still do.
Needlessly or not.
Every time I shift.
Since 1954.


The flat rock is all yours Dave......

 

I appreciate the continued help. I sincerely apologize for not stating the relevant info but maybe when I wrote 6th gear I though writing "manual transmission" was redundant. But now I am not confident that the automatics high gear is 5th. I am going to go Google double clutching.

Additional info.

Manual transmission - 2005 Coupe Limited
Crank Shaft Position Sensor replaced 2k miles ago.

 

Double clutching won't solve the problem you described. It is unrelated.

What it will do is save your synchros. However, that is also kinda irrelevant for most drivers here.
But no one can claim we have a smooth transmission in our Crossies.


However, if proficient in the double clutch, downshifting improves dramatically. This especially in the lower gears. Going from 3rd to 2nd is much easier if you double clutch. Going to fifst while in motion, is almost impossible unless one double clutches.


The process is simple.
Press in on the clutch
Move the shifter to neutral as you let off on the gas..
Release the clutch momentarily and depress it again.
Move to the next gear.


If shifting up, do nothing else.
If shifting down, press a bit on the accelerator when in neutral.
(This works better if you have a sprint booster. If not, the pedal lag will drive you nuts)


I use the tranny to downshift and brake the car's speed. It cuts down on brake dust and gives you more control, especially in turns. It is why I originally did not buy and SRT6. No manual tranny was available. I now own one of each, and NA roadster and an SRT6 coupe. Love both of them but still prefer the pleasure and control acquired by rowing one's own gears.


And now that I have painted a target on my @ss....., have at it guys.

 

Now, let us get back to the issue of the OP.
I know **** abou the intracacies of the ECU. However, this could be fairly simple.... old school.


What I suspect is that once you put the car in nuetral, and the throttle was released, the ECU shut down the fuel flow to the injectors. Normal operation.

However, at that speed your idlling engine was receiving to much air for the small fuel going into the cylinders and simply starved out. Either that or the ECU read the speed of the car over the ground and compared it to the RPM's. Finding that comparison outside of it's parameters, it shut down the engine.

Either is a logical concept given that you were able to restart the engine without issues.

Being in nuetral was a mechanical thing. Other than setting up these conditions, and subsequently the event, it had nothing to to do with what happened insidethe engine.


Now, word of caution, don't disegage the engine at those speeds except to shift. The last thing you need is to have to depend on your brakes when traveluing at velocities which will overheat them when applied. You need the engine connected to the rear wheels for a safe deceleration from those speeds.

Just My Humble Opinion.

 

Please explain how an idling engine can get too much air in it.

Maybe he was going so fast the air blew the pilot jet out.

 

You're kiddin' right?

 

DFCO should have prevented the throttle from shutting too fast, its an emissions thing. More likely it hit an undefined region in one of the maps and the PCM became "confused". Had a tuner been in there ?


ps double clutch. I used to be able to get a 150s Jag into 1st at 30. Only way with a non-synchro gear is to DC. Then there is the way to power shift a Muncie without a clutch...

 

Thank you.

My explanation would have been similar. As the throttle backed off, the injectors shut down. System went lean and the ECM shut it down. Or the engine starved. Given the over the ground speed, the ECU said abort.

Same thing could happen to a totaly mehanical carbuerated engine.

One other possibility would be an over rev situation where he pushed in on the clutch, left his other foot on the throttle, the engine over rev'd to the limiter, and the engine shut down. Depending on what the driver did with the throttle it stayed that way.