I'm getting sick and tired of this problem, fellas.

I had EGR Not Ready status more than 1000 miles ago. Since then I replaced EGR Valve.
Just for the heck of it, I replaced the battery.
Also, a Mercedes specialized auto-shop has replaced spark-plugs and gaskets (as a part of a maintenance, since they couldn't find anything else wrong), they reset the computer and since then I drove about 600 miles.

And now we're back to the original problem that was never fixed - the EGR Data Not Ready.
There was never any error codes neither the check engine light was ever on.

I searched this entire forum as well as the Internet. I asked dozens of mechanics who specializes in Mercedes engines. I can't believe no one can give me a valid advice.

Please help. What else could be wrong with my car?

 

you didn't get an error code or a check engine light because the components are working properly your problem is in the programming,the data link in the pcm has been turned off, take it to mercedes benz have them hook up their computer and turn it back on and everything will be fine.

 

Forget what I said below, I have just seen your other post and it answered my questions, that's the trouble posting two threads. But a local garage that does pollution checks said that he had a customer that jumped through all the hoops to get rid of one final code and after a month or so it suddenly went away. Do not disconnect the battery by mistake before a test.

To get this back to the correct condition you have to drive the car at varying speeds, times and distances so that the pollution control can say that all is well. At least that is what I had to do to pass the pollution test here. I installed a battery before getting the test done and the car failed on a multiple of the tests. One by one they were passed as I drove the car more. If you are driving the same route all the time you may not meet all the time, speed and distance checks to eliminate this one final pollution check.
If you have no pollution test where you are you can forget this and just drive the car. The test would be failed if you do have to get the car tested.

You never said if this fault was ever cleared between now and back then.

Normally a 40 mile drive consisting of highway, freeway and stop and go traffic will get rid of the code though.

 

Also, DO NOT CONTINUE TO CLEAR THE TESTER OR DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. A reset puts you right back where you were and you have to start the whole process from the beginning. Those 'drive cycle' internal tests are many times a PITA for lots of people. I have neighbors who ask me, and I tell them sometimes you have to drive 250 miles over a period of 3 weeks before the magical inclusion of all the test variables are counted. 180 is right, the 'drive cycle' is various speeds with other rqmts thrown in. You have to find the drive cycle requirements listing (dunno where that is), and follow it to the letter. Sometimes following it still doesn't reset that one monitor and people tell me it finally went off a couple of weeks later by itself. If you get frustrated/confused/or allow someone to use a OBD2 tool to reset (or any other resetting device) you'll have to start all over again for ALL the internal calibration/test monitor cycles. Disconnecting the battery also resets these parameters in some cars, I just know people keep resetting the codes or disconnect the battery in haste, winding up right back where they started again with that last drive cycle test holding the 'yellow' light on. Those monitors are a self test of the hardware and they just make problems for a lot of people who spend huge amounts of $ on stuff they do not have to. Other than this 'wait and see after you find and run that specific drive cycle' there is just nothing else I can suggest. DO NOT CONTINUE RESETTING THE SYSTEM OR DISC BATTERY.

 

Thanks everyone who replied to me. I really appreciate it.

I apologize for cross-posting, but I haven't gotten any reply to this post in a few weeks, that's why I decided to open a new threat, to get some attention.

I need to say that I do know about ECU being reset on disconnect of battery, and I'm familiar with various driving cycles. What I haven't mentioned before is that, before doing any repairs I have driven more than 1200 miles since the previous battery disconnect. This is my "weekend" car, so I don't have a routine path. Over several months and more than 1200 miles I'm sure the car have experienced all kinds of driving, and when the car did not passed smog check after 1200 - that's when I realized that there's something wrong with it. After that I have replaced the EGR Valve and the battery. The shop also replaced the spark plugs as a part of regular maintenance and head gaskets to eliminate some leaks. They did some sort of reset, since immediately after replacing the spark plugs I had ABS and BAS and Spolier going up notification. Some sort of reset from their Mercedes tools have cleared everything and only then I drove more than 600 miles using various types of driving.

And now I'm to the square 1, where I was before any repairs - EGR Not Ready.

The problem still exists. Any other help/advice is greatly appreciated.

 

May check this out
Not ready - MBWorld.org Forums

 

This is where an Ultragauge or other OBD device can help - you can look at all the information the PTCM is getting and draw your own conclusions about what is making it unhappy.

If the rear O2 sensors are reporting something odd, or nothing at all, you can see it. Not ALL out-of-bounds values generate a code or CEL.

 

Yes, I do have ODB2 adapter with Torque. That's how I know that only EGR data is not ready. All other sensors have been passed.

 

Every time you cut power from the ECU through either a dead battery, swapped battery, or just disconnecting power source to perform service work - it will reset the OBDII Diagnostics and it will create a ECU "Not Ready" state for many components.
In some states this can be problematic because a "Not Ready" state will most certainly cause you to fail state inspection.
I have heard many dealers say just drive the car around anywhere from 100 to 150 miles or so and come back for your inspection.

Here is how you create a "Ready" state for all your electrical components by driving about 8 - 10 miles
(for safety do it when there is little or no traffic):

The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another).

NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on.
OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.

3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.

5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.

6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.

7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.

This was found at benzworld - but the procedure is good for any OBDII ECU

 

I still need help with my problem. EGR Valve was replaced twice. First time because we thought it would help. Second time by another shop just for the heck of it, because they didn't believed me.

ECU was re-flashed to clear any possible glitches.

It's been more than 2 years ago, since my first post to this thread. I drove more than 8000 miles since then. The EGR still not ready. Do you think I need to drive just a bit more???

P.S. I know about the "driving cycle", so please don't advice that.

 

Hate to ask but when was the battery disconnected last?
I had trouble like this and that one took a while to reset.
Any codes been set besides the pollution one?

 

Last time the battery was disconnected about 1200 miles ago or about 4 months ago. But as I mentioned, the problem remains the same for over 8000 miles and over 2 years period. There are no codes period! No warnings, no malfunction, no errors - nothing. It's just looks like not enough data.

I spent over 900 dollars on various unnecessary repairs and diagnostics. The car was checked by 6 shops (and not just generic shops, but Mercedes and hi-end German specialty shops). No offence to small shops, but average mechanic would't even know where to look, so I was talking to automotive electronic specialists as well (not to be confused with an electrician who knows how to replace a light bulb).

Nobody knows...

 

Have you tried out the EGR connector?
If not go to the 2004 Service Manual, Engine 9-350 for details to check the wiring out.

 

Hate to say it, but he suggested it, could the clip be broken?

 

May be my first and only post to this forum since I am selling my XF soon. But this drive cycle thing has been killing me for awhile, replaced egr, verified pressure, new battery, a few other unrelated parts with the same issue persisting. After restarting the battery connection a few times, drove well over 30,000 miles doing the specific drive cycle and still no set EGR flag. Took it to a bunch of shops around San Jose and they didn't even want to look at it.
Recently the crankshaft sensor started to flag the computer which caused the car to cut power steering and drive upon receiving the error. (Note: resetting the computer via battery terminal will clear this flag and allow you to drive again for a short time in a pinch) Anyways, after replacing the sensor and driving around normally for a week i checked the reader to find all the flags have been cleared! Looks like I wont have to pay a premium for that smog guy again.

Hope this can help somebody out there.

 

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Good place to post that just because a particular OBDII code pops up, it means that SYSTEM flagged. Mechanics LOVE OBDII referenced repairs because they can throw a lot of parts at it until stumbling onto the right reason for the flag. Doncha just LOVE capitalism?


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