I have just had the Cat's replaced on my car. Recently when the car is at the traffic lights or stopped in traffic the engine just cuts out and can't be started. After about 20 minutes it will always start then run normally until a day or so later it will do it again. Can anyone please advise what it could be ? Does anyone know of a garage that will look at the car near Guildford Surrey UK. Many thanks.

 

Here in the States just about any auto parts store will hook up their OBD II diagnostic tool and read the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) for free. Let's start there ~~ What are the DTC's?
It is just a guess without a code: CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) or RCM (Relay Control Module)
DON"T start buying parts and throwing it at your problem until you know what the problem is. Get the DTC's.
USE the search function at the top of the page on this website for more info on your stall won't start situation.

 

You are stating the classic symptoms of a bad Crank Position Sensor. The best reported fix is the Bosch version.

Some of us keep a spare in the glove box with the tools to change it.

 

And this is your first post meaning you might be new to the Crossfire. Welcome to the forum. Here is a list of common complaints... https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ownership.html

 

Mine did the same thing and I replaced the crank position sensor and that solved the problem no more stalling.

 

Relay Control Module is the culprit in most cases. The solder joints on the circuit board warm up enough to separate, which causes the car to stall. Once they cool and make connection again, the car will start and run. There is a stick thread about how to fix the RCM on here. Check it out.
CPS usually causes rough starting conditions, runs rough, then will clear up for a time. Classic symptoms is on a start up. Runs rough, shut it down, re-start runs fine. Sooner or later it won't run at all.

 

I don't recall the mystery no start thread talking much about letting the car cool off then it start again or the motor just die sitting at a light being the RCM. Re-soldering the RCM is always a good idea but with the number of reports that the car dies while running then won't start till it cools of is reported in way more CPS fix threads.

 

It can be either or (GULP) both.
The RCM can be heat sensitive on cold solder joints or intermittent relays,
and the CPS can also be heat sensitive on the connector plug, or perhaps the inner coil winding or even the wiring to the PTCM.
There are so very many things that can go wrong, it's a bloody miracle these cars ever run at all !!!!
I almost wish I had my '57 Chevy back, distributor, coil, points, mechanical fuel pump, carburetor and all.

 

BUMP see post #2