Fuel system rebuild
I am having trouble starting and am thinking fuel pump is going bad. It cranks longer than normal before firing up. It seems to start quicker if I cycle the key a couple times. Even after cycling the key, I can still squeeze the fuel line in my fingers, so Im guessing its not building much pressure.
In looking at the fuel line, I noticed that all of it is rotted. Has anyone replaced the entire fuel line? Can you get the lines that have crimped on fittings anywhere?
In looking at the fuel line, I noticed that all of it is rotted. Has anyone replaced the entire fuel line? Can you get the lines that have crimped on fittings anywhere?
Welcome to the forum and stop wasting your time. No need to guess, you can diagnose this yourself. (Now, the idea of replacing the hoses, clamps, pump and filter IS a good idea...)
THe fuel pressure spec is 58psi +/- 3spi. Measuring the pressure is very easy and there is no reason to guess by pinching hoses. Remember, the "Feedback" hose(s) don't carry much pressure. Order any of the fuel pressure test kits from Amazon or Summit Racing (or even a local parts store) and see what you have. When the key is turned "ON", the pressure should JUMP to 58psi instantly, it should not take time (which it sounds like yours does).
My Ranger was doing this, I'd turn the key and it would crank, sometimes, for 10 seconds or more before it would start. If I'd turn the key to "ON" and count "1-2-3" then to go "START" and it would start instantly. This went on for two years, then, one day, in traffic, the pump failed completely. The tow was $120, the new pump was $960. The fix on the Crossfire is WAY easier, I got help replacing mine but the Ranger was no job for me!
So try my trick: Get in car, turn to "ON", count "1,2,3" and to go start -if it starts instantly, order a fuel pump, hoses, clamps and fuel pressure regulator/filter and fix it! I order such items from Rob at Needswings.com as he sells good stuff that FITS and you don't end up spending two weekends trying to make things fit.
I like this kit, works on what must be 90% or more of vehicles today, Amazon, Summit Racing and others have them. I will never be without it.
LInks dont work here right now, Google:
THe fuel pressure spec is 58psi +/- 3spi. Measuring the pressure is very easy and there is no reason to guess by pinching hoses. Remember, the "Feedback" hose(s) don't carry much pressure. Order any of the fuel pressure test kits from Amazon or Summit Racing (or even a local parts store) and see what you have. When the key is turned "ON", the pressure should JUMP to 58psi instantly, it should not take time (which it sounds like yours does).
My Ranger was doing this, I'd turn the key and it would crank, sometimes, for 10 seconds or more before it would start. If I'd turn the key to "ON" and count "1-2-3" then to go "START" and it would start instantly. This went on for two years, then, one day, in traffic, the pump failed completely. The tow was $120, the new pump was $960. The fix on the Crossfire is WAY easier, I got help replacing mine but the Ranger was no job for me!
So try my trick: Get in car, turn to "ON", count "1,2,3" and to go start -if it starts instantly, order a fuel pump, hoses, clamps and fuel pressure regulator/filter and fix it! I order such items from Rob at Needswings.com as he sells good stuff that FITS and you don't end up spending two weekends trying to make things fit.
I like this kit, works on what must be 90% or more of vehicles today, Amazon, Summit Racing and others have them. I will never be without it.
LInks dont work here right now, Google:
OTC 5630 Fuel Pressure Test Kit , Black
Last edited by pizzaguy; Jan 2, 2023 at 05:01 PM.
Great, Ill get on that.
On a side question, what are the 2 items on the front that have the vacuum operated diaphragm? There were 2 extra ones in the trunk when I bought mine.
On a side question, what are the 2 items on the front that have the vacuum operated diaphragm? There were 2 extra ones in the trunk when I bought mine.
I would replace the regulator/filter yes they are in one ,, but what u r saying is your system may be (AFTERMARKET) manual adjustable with a return system with a failing check valve. or with our t a check valve
No, my system is all factory.
Those are the secondary air injection "valves". Item 3 in the diagram on the following page:
https://www.ms-motorservice.com/en/t...ry-air-system/
https://www.ms-motorservice.com/en/t...ry-air-system/
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