Putting new drive shaft support bearings in today. I did not realize there are two support bearings and both are shot! "ONLY TOOK ME 2.5 HOURS, LAYING ON MY BACK, TO REMOVE THE SIX BOLTS ON EACH END!" Can someone explain how to drop the drive shaft and pull it out the back end? I used a screwdriver to separate shaft from "Rubber Guedos" but there is no room to back off to allow the drive shave to be lowered! There has to be a trick to this. Any help would be appreciated so I can get my car out of the driveway! In the mean time I'm gonna take a coffee break!

 

Coffee break over so I went back to work on it. Does removing drive shaft have anything to do with the splines at the u-joint? Do the splines compress giving that little extra room to drop the shaft? I had to give up for today as it wore me out with all up and down and crawling around under the car! A plus is that FEDEX delivered my new 3-ton floor jack this morning and I was able to safely get the car up higher.

 

I may be making this harder than necessary! After searching removal procedures I only find general bits and pieces! I did find one person saying the entire driveshaft need not be removed but only the last part. I'VE ALREADY REMOVED EVERY NUT AND BOLT FROM TRANNY TO DIFFERENTIAL! SHOULD I REPLACE EVERY NUT AND BOLT FROM U-JOINT GOING UP TO THE TRANNY? I GUESS EXPERIENCE COST AND I'M PAYING MY DUES ON THIS ONE!!!

 

WHERE'S ZRACER AND M60A3Driver WHEN I REALLY NEED THEIR ADVICE?? MAYBE THEY HAVE NO EXPERIENCE ON MY PARTICULAR PROBLEM. OH WELL TOMORROW IS ANOTHER DAY. MAYBE IT WILL COME TO ME IN A DREAM TONIGHT. LOL

 

@Romad Here's my post on replacing the driveshaft support bearing and both flex discs. I would have posted earlier, but I've been busy as hell lately with family stuff.
By the way, if you go to the first page of my thread, there are a ton of links on the bottom to help with fixing and maintaining our cars. I hope this helps.
LINK - Driveshaft support bearing and flex discs

My Journey with my 2006 Roadster "Svengoolie" page 1

 

That's really a great post of yours! Thank you, thank you, thank you! I'LL HAVE TO GET UP IN THE MORNING AND DO AN IN DEPTH READING MY EYES ARE TIRED AND WANT TO SHUT. GOOD NIGHT!
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Gotta go buy a 18mm wrench in the morning. Can't believe of all the tools I own I don't have one and had to improvise with a 19mm flare nut wrench.

 

Wow! Your posts are really great! Both of the links are super great and helpful. I love lots of pictures as you've done! Was your car a restoration with the many maintenance actions you performed?

Update: @ 8am: Just bought my 18mm wrench and will make life a "lot" easier!

 

Bought new 18mm wrench this morning and should make life a little easier. When, "IF," i get this darn drive shaft out I think AutoZone has a loaner gear puller. Don't know if it's big enough though. I do have a press but no bering separator. Maybe they have a loner for that as well. Little chilly and windy this morning so I'll have to wait for it to warm up a bit. Does the front flex disc have to be removed to enable rear shaft removal? I'm guessing yes.

 

"SUCKCESS" ON TYHE DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL. AND IT "ONLY" TOOK ANOTHER THREE HOURS OF FLOUNDERING AROUND UNDER THE CAR AND USING SPECIAL WORDS! Figured out the driveshaft just wasn't going to come out without lowering the last section of the exhaust system. My heat shield just kept getting in the way. To remove the shield the exhaust has to be dropped down which allowed the shaft to just fall right into my hands. Don't think I can get the bearing on and installed today but things are looking up right now. The splines are not coming apart so I'll go and look into that shortly and figure out bearing removal. I supported the front and rear sections of the exhaust.

 

I have two styles of support bearings. The one on the left is like the original that's installed now. The one on the right is more than likely for use with an automatic transmission. I'll go with the original style.

 

Could not get the splines to let loose so I stood it up in the corner and sprayed heavy dose of WD-40 and will give it a try tomorrow. I knocked the bearing off but gotta get the shaft separated to remove it.

If anyone wants to know from A to Z about driveshaft removal M60A3Driver has posted a GREAT thread all about it with lots of pictures. Click on his link here! LINK - Driveshaft support bearing and flex discs

 

Thank you for the kind words!
Make sure that you mark the driveshaft halves before you take them apart. This way they will go back together easier and line up correctly.
I don't think the support bearing shown on the right is the correct bearing for a Crossfire. It looks like it's for a different class of Mercedes-Benz.
You're doing great! Just take your time and be safe. I didn't like working on my back either, I kept feeling like the car was going to fall on me! LOL
By the way, when I bought my car I only had 3 metric wrenches because I only had worked on older American muscle cars. Harbor freight is very happy that I bought a Crossfire! LOL

 

I'll use a center punch to mark the spline end of the u-joint and on the mating end of the 2nd half of the driveshaft. That way it will be joined exactly on the same splines. With "luck," which is a rarity on my car, I'll get this car out of my driveway today! LoL Colder weather is on it's way soon and don't wanna be on my back under the car. Thank you for all your support from the beginning of my restoration!

 

The bearing on the right is what's being sold for all Crossfires but stipulates for A/T tranny's. The one on the left is the "only one" I found that stipulates for std transmissions for $23. It is the correct bearing for std shift transmissions even though the other "might" work as well but is much more robust and stiffer in construction.

I have such a mix and match, "and some missing," of metric wrenches that I treated myself to a new set of 12pt box end combo wrenches on Amazoo for $29. Should make life a little easier than the mess you see in the pan.

 

After soaking in WD-40 for the last 24 hours and beating on the meaty part of the u-joint, it hasn't budged. Guess I'll have to try heating with the torch on the splines that are sticking out. I'll wrap a wet towel on the u-joint to protect it. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

If I wind up having to remove the u-joint I'll replace it with new one.

 

Great thread, really interesting/entertaining and informative.
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Too bad the entire world has not completely embraced the metric system. Having two sets of tools is a Royal PITA. Especially when working on any vehicles NOT made in NA.
Crazy simple to work in increments of 10

Keep posting on your progress. It’s great to see a post that is not about key fobs or sticky ignition switch.

 

Life just got better with the getting organized! All the tools in the cardboard box will be put in the excess tool bucket! Dpn't thonk I'll work on the car today. Supposed to rain later and still soaking the splines for another 24 hours before I commit to the torch!

 

Nice to have a day of relaxation and contemplation!

UPDATE THIS AFTERNOON: I don't think the WD-40 is seeping down the splines. I think it's just puddling around the splines and evaporating! When I tap around the collar it doesn't seep down. Maybe I could try 50% mix acetone and AT Fluid. I had good luck with removing WWII rifle barrels off their receivers but took awhile. Don't know that I have that much time.

CRUISING AROUND IN MY 2006 XFIRE AT BALLAST POINT PARK, TAMPA, FL.

 

MAYBE THIS IS THE ANSWER? SEEMS BRUTAL THOUGH! MAYBE USE A LARGE DULLED CHISEL. WHAT IS THE APPROXIMATE LENGTH OF THE SPLINED YOKE?

 

Should I torch the yoke splines or the collar of the female receiver side?