I use my leaf blower to get the excess water off my car after I wash it. I pay special attention to that area around the bottom of the doors and so far KOW I have seen no rust. My car is garage kept so it doesn't sit out in the rain except when I'm at work. I also towel dry what water is left on the car and again pay special attention to that area making sure there is no water left there. I wash my car once a week and have had no rust issues. That said nothing is fool proof.
Pat

 

Putting the seals back in mine is a real hassle, as they are so tight. Other posts have mentioned the seals coming out on their own. This would suggest to me that the seal fit is nowhere near the same over the XFire line. This would not be the cause of the water getting in all vehicles as water has got into the seals of those who specifically mentioned water and rust and had a hard time putting the seals back into place. Water between the seals comes in at the front of the door and travels back to the rear as the lower seal is just along the bottom of the door.

 

PS I have always had a two seater -- MG - TC, TD, Midget, B and A as well a TR-6. So I am very familiar with the ravages of rust. This car is a true pleasure. I laugh to my self when I read about the poor creature comfort, etc. Anybody remember wood floors and adjusting carbs. This car is a true pleasure to cruise in.

[/quote]

I loved those British sports cars despite all the issues. I had a 1956 Triumph TR3 (small mouth) with knock off wheels and side curtains. Later came an MG Midget then a TR6. I remember the kit for synchronizing the SU carbs very well. I hope we old dudes don't hijack this excellent thread with our nostalgia but I could not resist.

I plan to check my 07 Coupe doors when I get it out if spring ever comes. I can hardly wait. I go to the garage and look under the cover occasionally and hope for springtime. Stupid Groundhog!

 

I loved those British sports cars despite all the issues. I had a 1956 Triumph TR3 (small mouth) with knock off wheels and side curtains. Later came an MG Midget then a TR6. I remember the kit for synchronizing the SU carbs very well. I hope we old dudes don't hijack this excellent thread with our nostalgia but I could not resist.

I plan to check my 07 Coupe doors when I get it out if spring ever comes. I can hardly wait. I go to the garage and look under the cover occasionally and hope for springtime. Stupid Groundhog![/QUOTE]


Heck, my two first cars '54 Fords were bad for rust as well. I can also remember helping a friend with his ten year old 56 Chev fix the rust over the headlights (fenders).

My '65 Corvette, although fibre-glass body had some rust issues and needed to be fixed (still some metal on those cars).

It pays to be attentive to this and do whatever necessary to prevent or keep the rust in check.

 

I recently took off the door stripping to see if I had any rust, it seemed fine but now I can't get the rubber back in. The thing is, the rubber looks different to that posted in the photos - it seems to have had some clips. I've attached some photos of mine.

If anyone can explain or give me some tips I would be very grateful.

P.S. Not sure if this makes a difference, but I have a UK crossfire.

Many thanks.

 

Yeah, I hear they had to put stronger rain seals on the UK models, what with all that weather you guys have over there.
Just kidding you, that looks like the lower seal, the one that goes along the bottom of the door. This discussion has been about the seal that goes all around the sides and the bottom of the doors. It is located above this seal.
The snaps on your seal should just pop back in if you have not broken them.

 

It does take some force to get them back in. Some one suggested using a credit card or something similar as a tool to push the weather stripping back into place. Even then it may not go back in exactly as originally but it will do the job. See posts above for suggestions as to how to deal with the rust problem. I have been popping out the bottom stripping after washing my car to let the water drain out and that area to dry out before reinserting the stripping.

 

The correct seal, as onehundred80 explained, is larger diameter, roundish in shape and really pliable and I believe the side of the rubber that goes in the metal track is flatish shaped.

I believe you have removed some other seal along the outer edge of the door and hopefully you can reinstall without difficulty.

 

Thanks guys, yeah I've been a bit of a doofus and took the wrong thing off! And there was me thinking I didn't have any rust, I might still have :/ If there is, I'll post the pics.

Cheers guys.

 

Thanks for the heads up

 

I read through about eight pages of this, found the fix instructions and concur with the approach that involves the proper application of POR 15. I have used that in some very extreme applications (mild steel on Jeep used in very harsh environments) and found it to be the best solution for me.

There is a material that body shops use to re-installed rubber channel seals - it's a "release agent" that makes the rubber slippery and allows it to be stuffed into the channel easily. It evaporates without a trace. I keep a can (spray) on hand for these types of jobs. Sometimes I'd be lost without it. You do have to be careful not to get it all over the place but it's great stuff.

A few comments, for what it's worth:


Undercoat - fails and actually makes matters worse - this is a big mistake - years of experience here - undercoat traps the moisture that's there, traps new moisture (it develops pin holes over time), conceals the problem, and because of this becomes a petri dish for new rust. Don't do it!

Waxoyl - was my favorite rust preventative (I had Jags) until I learned it must be reapplied often because it eventually rinses away over time. It's great stuff to put inside doors in the seams where it won't wash out and can protect the seam from water getting in, but not so good for this type of problem.

spray-on rust "converters" - the active ingredient in these actually is what forms the first step in the POR-15 treatment. It is "OK" but not a long-term, permanent solution. And they interfere with a POR-15 treatment because they have paint mixed with the active ingredient which interferes with proper adhesion of POR-15.

cutting off the weather strip - I'm not sure why to cut it off when it can be removed cleanly and reinstalled later with no damage. Also think it compromises the seal which may lead to other problems.

This area on cars is historically one of the most common rust problems. That suggests manufacturers would by now have turned the corner on a design that would prevent it. But realistically an opening at the bottom of the door is the last place moisture will land, and if it gets trapped, it's going to cause rust - unless it's on a non-metal surface.

Treat the rust properly and early, and periodically inspect the area for new rust.

 

Do you have a name, web site or some way for us to buy the "re-installed rubber channel seals - it's a "release agent." Thanks.

 

With all respect to PPRO, I really don't think you need this 'release agent'; get yourself a good popsicle stick...it worked really well for me.

 

3M 08971 sold at pro body shop supply stores.

 

BUMP (10 characters)

 

Hi all... sorry if this has already been answered. Has anyone been successful with the dealer to get this warrantied? My original warranty just expired last week and I'm on the extended bumper-2-bumper warranty now. Perhaps I can swing by and check with dealer but I was wondering on you guys' luck with them.

Thanks!
-Az4R1

 

Well, too late for mine; I opened the driver's door today and part of that trough fell off onto my shoe! I am having a local body shop look into finding the part # for this trough; hopefully they can either find the part or make one...otherwise the 'fix' is a new door! (holy crap!) Looks like Chrysler/AMG should have made a provision for moisture to exit that trough but they did not. it holds water like a vase. Idiots

 

Wow, you drive your Xfire all year round or live on the ocean where the salt water is keeping it wet all the time...................that deterioration is bad for a 5 or less year old car!

 

Can anybody see the part # on this rusted piece? I know it's welded to the door frame, but I need both sides for my 2004 CF. Both sides rusted off...completely. Body shop says only fix might be complete doors (not in my lifetime!). Any help will be appreciated.
jim

 

Not trying to put the fear of God into you, but don't be surprised if there is no separate part # for the welded piece on the door.............a whole new door might be in the cards, if I know Chrysler the way most people know Chrysler.

You might want to appeal to the higher ups at Chrysler for some sort of 'justice' but I wouldn't hold my breath on that one either.