My HID 6k kit seems to have a heavy light concentration towards the floor closest to the front of the car, and not so much towards the cutoff, creating a concentration of light immediately in front of my car - makes it difficult to see whats ahead of me

any ideas how to resolve issue?

 

Sounds like the bulbs aren't seated right.

 

Turn the car upside down.

 

There was a washer/spacer that came with the bulb that i kept to make the end flush in the housing, as opposed to have the tab seat into place without that washer/space.

I took off the washer/spacer and the H7 style tab then seated into place and i adjusted the bulb position so that the intensity of the beam is shooting straight as opposed to down. Now its all fine and the cutoff is nice and sharp

 

SRT-6 with HID 6,000k on low beams and fog lamps. The videos appears green, when in reality its an aqua light blue. I would go for the 5,000k Next time around, this is a little too blue than I was hoping, but still cool.

Road markers and signs FLAIR up!

I am afraid I am blinding people, but so far nobody has flickered their high beams at me. I cant imagine doing a 55 watt 5,000k install, must be ridiculous, I am definitely doing that next!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tysyPMtpdtc

 

Looking good. I just completed the HIDs in my fogs as well, I went with 5K and LOVE them. I was pulled next to my friends S600 and my fogs looked a hell of a lot nicer than his LOL

 

Looks fantastic, good work. I have my 5k's adjusted a little high, maybe one in 500 cars gives me a flash.

 

I changed from a 35w 8k (really blue) to a 55W 8k (light aqua), the amount of light i get now is crazyyy high! i have them at the correct angle, but i still get plenty of flashes.... No police officers have said anything about them though sooo... oh well?... If i were to reccomend a bulbs, i would say 5k on 35w so you get nearly the max light. or an 8k 55w to filter out a little of the light.

 

Did you have to change both the ballasts and the bulps to go into 55 w?

 

Yes, you have to change both batallasts and the bulbs... Btw, this online HId place called VME sells 55W 8k kits for only like 50ish bucks each and these kits do not make my "light out" indicator turn on.

 

I believe none of the 55W kits will make the light out indicator appear because they are drawing close to as much wattage as the factory bulbs.

 

Just got my hidgate kits in the mail for my girlfriend for xmas. On ebay there was a specific kit for crossfires. Does this have the error sensor and harness already modified now? Looks like the harness already modified like many of you guys had to do. Hopefully shell like um once i install them. Got the 6k kit for lows and fogs.

 

I don't have an answer to your question but I have an added benefit to HID's. I was following my girlfriend the other night and she could tell my car from others by the white blueish light, so if I changed lanes, she would too. Have Fun.

 

P.S. Your gonna love those crazy green street signs

 

Absolutely, ive had HIDs in my truck and Mustang for a while now, its time the crossfire gets upgraded as well! Granted i dont have projectors in either of my other rides. Should be a whole new chapter

 

Cannot seem to get the radiator overflow tank out for the life of me. Tried pulling it out but the bottom wont give. Any tips or tricks anybody has come across in getting it out?

 

There is a cone shaped barb on the bottom of the tank which goes through a rubber grommet. Spray it with WD40 first and pull straight up.

 

Awesome. Thanks for the tip. Just installed a set of McCulloch 6000K HIDs using your directions. Each step worked exactly except for the mounting of the ballasts - my ballasts come with three holes integrated into them for mounting purposes so I couldn't use the already existing holes as you said you did. For now I used the provided M3 double-sided tape but will eventually mount them more securely. Does anybody have any suggestions as far as mounting the ballasts? The options I know of are: 1.) use stronger M3 style tape or silicone glue 2.) Use self-tapping screws [but I'd like to see if there is a way around drilling holes into the car, but if not - so be it].

 

I used existing bolts sticking out from the car. the braces/bracket that the ballast came with worked great, and the nut fit the existing bolts sticking out of the car stock to grag the brace of the ballasts

 

I did not want the ballast and wires to clutter the area in front of the wheel well. What I did was to enclose the thin wires from the grommet to the connectors in that split plastic loom. That tidied that up and I will do the same to the bigger wires going from the connectors to the ballast.
I got some industrial strength sticky backed Velcro and attached the ballast underneath the head lamp unit, as there is a flat spot there just big enough to place the ballast. All you see are the wires going under the head lamp unit. No ballast in sight, I hope the glue sticks with the constant weight of the ballast on the glue. The Velcro should easily take the weight.
I noticed that the grommet was for a thicker wall than the wall of the lamp cover the grommet is fitted into, so I cut a 3/4 O-Ring and put it between the grommet and the lamp cover on the inside, now the grommet sits flush with the lamp cover on the outside.