In Canada you must have DRL's come on with the ignition. The method of connection I used was very simple as I did not want to modify or tap into any of the vehicles other lighting circuits to prevent the chance of creating the "bulb out" indicator on the instrument cluster.
I grounded the neg - wire of each LED strip using crimp on ring terminals that I put under some existing bolts on the main lower crossmember behind the front grill. I spliced the two pos+ wires behind the front grill and ran a single wire up the driver side into the fuse box in the engine compartment. When you remove the fuse box cover there is another cover that is held in by tabs on the front and both sides. Once it is removed you will see a couple of main terminal studs right up in the end of the fuse box closest to the firewall. The one in the right corner closest to the fender is live when the key is turned to ON. You can enter the fusebox with your wire on the side closest to the fender as there is a little rubber dam with a slit in it for pushing the wire through. I used an inline fuseholder and crimped on a ring terminal so that it could be added to the stud terminal. Don't drop the nut on the stud terminal into the bottom of the fusebox (I DID) and had a hell of a time fishing it out with a probe magnet.
I used a 2AMP fuse which was the lowest rating I had. These lights draw very little so keep the fuse size low to protect the circuit.
As always, disconnect the neg - terminal on the battery before starting the job.
Also, a little advise when installing the LED Lighting Strips : Make sure the headlight assembly is clean and apply some rubbing alcohol to the area where you will be applying the LED strips. It is best to warm the LED strips up a little before you stick them onto the headlight assembly. I layed mine flat across a forced air heat register in the house and ran the furnace for 15 minutes to make them more plyable for going around the tights corners. I took them out to the garage for installation one at a time when ready to install. Mine stuck really well and have not moved. When installing the LED strips, I was very careful not to touch the adhesive side of the strips and only peeled a little of the paper backing at a time.




I have added some pics of the connection point in the fuse box :

http://i40.tinypic.com/350a39h.jpg View of the stud terminal in the back right corner.You can see my new ring terminal with the blue insulation. This stud is live with the key turned ON.

http://i41.tinypic.com/29w742c.jpg Just another view of same. Black rubber in-line fuse holder can be seen.

http://i44.tinypic.com/zilzip.jpg You can see the black wire enters the fuse box along side the rubber dam.

 

Added more daytime pics in post # 1 and wiring instructional pics in post #21.

 

I had no idea that stud was powered with the key on. Would have saved me from using a tap-a-circuit had I known. Oh well, this is great info for future applications.

Great write up and thanks for the info!

 

Thank you !!

 

I ordered these yesterday and will be installing them early next week. My only concern is how long they will stay attached. Between the excessive heat in Az during the summer and the occasional trip through the car wash I'm wondering how well the adhesive will hold up.

 

To ensure a good bond with the 3m adhesive tape, I cleaned the headlight recess surface area with rubbing alcohol. This can only help keep the LED strips in place.

 

I would also like to know how you wired the LED strips...can you elaborate....I have a US light switch and a DTRL kit but am at aloss to know where to tap into the wiring and did you solve the light out indicvator problem?

Cheers...Rusty

 

As these are not part of the normal lights being monitored..there is no "dash light" indicator.

 

Jerry,
It's all here in post #21 complete with instructions and pictures. Click on the links to the pics.

And yes, there is no bulb out indicator light as this is not connected to any existing lighting circuit. These LED lights are independant and turn on with the key.

 

[quote=SparkieSRT6]Jerry,
It's all here in post #21 complete with instructions and pictures. Thanx Sparkie for the instructions and the pictures. Thanx especially for that nugget on the live connection - is that your keyless buzzer on the side? I have mine on the ABS box...

 

[quote=coolx]Yes, very observant !!! Glad you liked the mod.

 

I purchased a set of these LED's from one of the ebay sellers in the OP. When they arrived I noticed that the protective strip had seperated from the adhesive in several places. I suspect the adhesive then dried out. At any rate, less than a week after I installed them they are starting to come loose. I cleaned the headlight housing very carefully and used rubbing alcohol as well. They looked really great but I don't think they'll stay on much longer.

 

Funny you should say that, I had the same problem. I ripped them off and will try again when it gets warm outside. I think the missing ingredient is heat and I'm not going to fight with old man winter using a heat gun to put these things on.

 

Anybody having problems with stuff staying stuck might want to try a very sturdy, strong holding adhesive called E 6000. It goes on clear, you need apply very little to a clean surface and it sticks like crazy to just about anything. I've found it at Academy sporting goods in the marine department. IMO, I think every do-it-yourselfer should have this stuff in their toolbox...

 

In the event you need to remove this stuff from your headlights, the clean up does not sound easy or fun...

CLEAN UP & REMOVAL RECOMMENDATIONS:
Uncured E-6000® can be cleaned by using small amounts of solvents such as Acetone, Tolulene or Naphtha.

Cured E-6000® requires scraping or cutting away product with sharp knife and use of mineral spirits (i.e. gasoline, lighter fluid, lacquer thinner) to soften product.

 

You're bang on. I layed mine flat across a forced air heat register in the house and ran the furnace for 15 minutes to make them more plyable for going around the tights corners. I took them out to the garage for installation one at a time when ready to install. Mine stuck really well and have not moved. When installing the LED strips, I was very careful not to touch the adhesive side of the strips and only peeled a little of the paper backing at a time.
I guess I should have mentioned this and will add this to the instructions.

 

did u install the LED light on the inside of the headlight cover?

 

This a very easy and simple way to meet the Canadian DRL law as well as add a little more pizazz without a major expense. I ran mine around the top of the lens - a little less of a sharp bend to them so they stick better. They're available from most parts stores too. I think mine were about $15.00, plus fuse, etc.

 

I love the look, SparkieSRT6! I would like to, however, have these come one with my existing parking lights. Is there any way to ensure that I will not get the bulb out light on the dash?

 

I highly doubt it. The Crossfire lighting wiring is fairly complex. Alot of individual fuses to feed individual lights and many are connected to the security system and BCM. This is why I kept the LED's separate from all other lighting circuits.