I can do that...

 

Thanks for the write up and pictures - that's what makes this forum so fantastic. I'll be cracking my lights open to install "angel eyes" and your info gives me a another option. Also I don't know how foggy your lens was but it looks brand new - good job

 

Yeah, I wish the oven option really worked...I don't know about the Dremel method, though...

 

That may be true but that type of unnecessary commentary simply serves to discourage other forum members from making potentially positive posts on this forum. Just my humble opinion . . .

 

My very 1st try was the oven....it came out more factory like...but you need two people to help..and heat resistant grip gloves.. use a silicone heat pad to put the headlight on so it dosent melt the bottom...you may need to use the oven more than once before you completley remove the clearcase..it took me 3 trips to the oven..

 

Thanks coolx...and yes they were yellow and foggy...

 

I don't disagree...

 

I wonder if there is a chemical that would destroy the glue and NOT the plastic? Nobody's mentioned that...

 

Not that I know of....maybe a soldering iron ...??? Easier to use and melts more accuratley

 

Not a bad idea...

 

Congrats on the install, but I have to agree on the sloppy job. Way too much silicone and...why black? I would go with a clear adhesive when resealing the headlights in case some of it seeps into view somehow. Again, not trying to be harsh but way too sloppy for my taste.

 

I'm sure the job can be improved upon, especially on a first effort...most of us don't have the patience to work with something like that that...

 

I am ready to do another set of Angel Eyes on a spare set I just purchased. The Dremel is the quickest and CLEANEST way to go, especially after the pics I just saw.

Hang in there Dave, I'm with you all the way on this one.

James

 

Give it a rest already.

 

My concern about the Dremel method is how to seal everything back properly. It has to be a LOT faster, though...and you could use some giant rubber bands, bungee cords or velcro straps to hold everything together while it dries...

 

Here's the post by someone who cut them apart with a knife.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post557178

 

That could work...time-consuming, though...better than some of the solutions!

 

Jonctovar, thanks for the write-up. I was hoping you might could go into a little more detail about cleaning up your headlights with the sandpaper. I used a cheap kit by Turtle Wax earlier this year and already my headlights are back smudgy. From what I understand, you rubbed with 1000 and then 2000 grit sandpaper and then sprayed a thin, even coat of clear enamel. Would you mind going into a bit more detail on how long you sanded with the different papers, like what to look for when you know you've done enough. Thanks! Seems like a great method rather than having a body shop put a new clear coat for $100+. Thanks!

 

Smokey, I can tell you this from past experience. There is night and day difference between a body shop spraying clear and clear out of a rattle can. I am sure members here with more expertise can chime in on this. Clear out of a can has no hardener and will chip, pit and turn color really fast on clear plastic type lens. While clear that has been mixed with a hardener and other chemicals just before application will last much longer, be much clearer.

James

 

ive done this a few times to head lamps, its difficult, time consuming , but well worth it, i loved the way they looked. although , i dont beleive i will put them inside the headlamp anymore for one reason , the heat coming from the head lamp will eventually kill the leds,but if you place them on the outside they will be fine , great job by the way, the final product looks SUPER clean. ive dealt with LED alot , at least i would hope so, i own my own LED lighting company hahah