12v -------- LOAD --------- splice 1 ---------- splice 2 -------- GROUND

12v............................4 volts...............0 volts.............0 volts

METER VOLTS ^

In the above example, there is a connection or wire problem between splice 2 and splice 1.

 

I like that 2001, one of mine is a Avanti 2 sbc stroker motor, and a 5spd, the other is my retirement car it is a 64, R3 with I hope a t56 6 spd. Funny the crossfire feels like an Avanti, just more refined. The Avanti will get away from you and bite you, if you don't stay alert.

 

Ala, I don't understand, but I am just a dumb old Prison guard. I figured that the driver side ground was bad, so I jumped over to the pass side ground and hooked into it. I wish I knew more about electricity. It was a guess for me.

 

All I'm saying is if you have a bulb with one contact connected to a battery and you have a meter connected between the other battery terminal and the other bulb terminal you will get a reading on the voltmeter. I did a 6 volt set up and the wires had 6 volts in them, ether the + or the - side.
Obviously there will be no sparky stuff in the ground when the switch is of, maybe that's what you are thinking is wrong with my statement. I know that much about sparky stuff.

I was wrong when I said the electricity would all go through the wire placed in parallel with the meter, on the 6 volt set up the meter showed 0.5 volts.

Well you win some and then are 1/12 wrong on another.

I know nothing at all about electricity, never said I did but I got this guys problem nailed in post #5.
He might not admit it though and I'm not about to argue with a screw or I might end up in solitary confinement on bread and water. That might be a good thing though as I could loose some weight.

 

And that's all that matters anyway.

 

180: the post that you just referred to of mine was totally facetious ... as you know from my contacts with you, I am totally ignorant when it come to "electrical"... the implication in that facetious remark of mine is that I'm simply blown away by your knowledge of such... wish I had that!!...Carl (how did you acquire all that stuff??)

 

I thought you were referring to ala_xfire, he seems to be the expert on this stuff, I treat electricity as if it was water going down pipes.
My first contact with electrical circuits was when I was trying to fix the Xmas tree lights back in the UK when I was about ten. The first lesson I learned was to switch of the power before playing with the wire, 220 volts teaches you fast.
My sister nearly died laughing watching me jump around.

 

It's all Black Magic. I used to work on the radar on F4-J Phantoms when in the service and learned a few things. What I don't get is why you would all of a sudden need to to start rewiring your car when it had been functioning. If you have a broken wire, isolate it and fix it, put your Canbus compatible bulbs in correctly and "VOILA", everything should work. I sometimes think we make some simple things more difficult than they need to be.

 

I am just happy that the lights work, and the indicator light went out. 180, I have read a lot of your posts, I'm sure your knowledge exceeds my own. Next month oil level sensor, last light on the dash.

 

Since I'm now the 'official extert' ( thanks a bunch, 180 ), here's Lighting 101 :
4 things it takes for there to be light :
1. 12v to one side of an incandescent bulb. ( or LED, but polarity matters )
2. a good ground to the other side. ( meter shows 0 volts, or very close to it )
3. a good bulb socket ( contacts )
4. a good bulb ( meter for ohms, or just try it in another location )

DC electricity and batteries are like an ant hive. You kick the ants out one entrance ( B+ ) where they are not allowed to come back in, they run around set paths doing pieces of work, then are allowed back in through another hive entrance ( ground or earth ). However they are pretty tired, and some have died along the way. That's where the alternator ( the queen ant ) comes in : it re-supplies new workers to the ant colony.
After a while, the colony gets pretty cruddy from all the crap they drag back in on their feet( can you say 'Varta' ) and a completely new colony along with fresh ants must be supplied.

 

This is all I'm saying.

 

But what you are saying is not quite correct.
In your picture, the left illustration shows a meter connected to read amps / milliamps, not volts.
When reading volts, a meter displays the potential difference ( in volts ) between the black lead and the red lead.
When reading amps ( as you showed ), a meter displays the amount of current flowing through the meter.

 

I shall throw my Multimeter away then as it is set to VDC. It will go to the recycle depot next week, Shame as it cost alot of money.

 

NO! Send it to me, I'll pay the shipping
Mine is just a Fluke anyway.

 

I'll take your Fluke! I have a Micronta!