I just purchased a 2005 SRT6 with 85k, drove it from Florida Back to Texas mostly without issues, but about in Mississippi the low beams stopped working, I'm just now getting around to working on it. They both stopped, high beams, marker lights, etc. Work fine.

I read online the dimmer switch/headlight control switch and fuse box could be bad?

I purchased another one and some new low beams, checked the fuses and they were good. Is there anything else I can do to test and verify if it's the control module, wiring or bulbs?

Thanks!

 

My 1st guess would be the bulbs, try changing one.

 

Sounds good, I think the bulbs will be here Monday. The FuseBox/Headlight Switch will likely be Saturday, so I guess I'll have an extra if it ever does go bad.

I'll swap the bulbs first and go from there.

 

Why wait for the bulbs? Check the bulb contacts for power.

 

Turns out both low beams burned out at the same time. Both were bad. Never seen that happen before. I would assume a surge or ground issue, but if that were the case the fuse should have popped too, right?

Not sure what to make of that. I do see the dome light sometimes flickers at idle, they aren't LEDs, maybe an issue with the voltage regulator? unsure if thats even related. The previous owner definitely cut some corners on wiring that I've been fixing this week.

 

Yes, both bulbs could blow at the same time when a bump of sufficient magnitude on the front end occurs. When a bulb is lit, a lesser vibration could break the fragile filament (especially if 'cheap' bulbs are installed OR an older set of bulbs are nearing their life expectancy). On the flickering of the dome light bulbs, I have experienced that until I made sure the 'tabs' are contacting the metal imbedded into the frame of the dome light. assembly (without being loose). Things do wear out and it seems the 'light metal' socket contacts have been a problem for some members. History shows those types of sockets on the crossfire have given members problems in a few locations of the car. Check the contacts first before moving on to any more expensive parts/wires (time and monies extensive). An old saying, KISS (Keep It Simple Silly). Good luck!


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Well I know where that happened then. Louisiana. Specifically, Shreveport. Worst roads from Tampa to to Texas lol.

I suppose this should be a separate thread, but I thought I might ask it here. The previous owner put in an aftermarket radio, one of the wires I believe for remote amp turn on was shorting and possibly another for 12v.

I replaced all the radio wiring when replacing the radio with a decent one (with actual heat shrink connectors and not just twisted wires & electrical tape) and the speakers now reliably turn on, but the tweeters are no longer working. My guess would be probably either a wiring fault or tweeters are blown. Is there an easy way to test the tweeters with a multimeter without pulling the door off?

I took one off the other day and putting it back on was an absolute pain. Especially for a 6'3" Ogre like me with giant hands.

 

Do you know if you have the OEM amp?

 

Yes it's still running off of the Stock Infinity Amp, I was considering at some point swapping it, but am unsure with how difficult that would be and it'd be down the line.

 

You might want to do James1549's ground fix as a precaution. Also, in that same thread, CROSSFIRERUSH (post #18) replaced the smaller ground wire located under the car. Both are very easy and fast fixes. The cables are available on amazon.
Here's a link to the post: James's ground wire fix

 

Funny you mentioned that, I just finished that about an hour ago haha. Changed the Negative terminal out with 0/1 and and the Engine/Bellhousing with 10ga. I would have liked to do 4/8 but 10 was all I had on hand. I can't really tell just yet, but Idling in the driveway it does appear to have cured to flickering dash/dome light.

Checking OBD2/Torque shows 14.1v with the engine running, before was lower 13v IIRC. The previous owner didn't seem to have a flathead available based on the battery. That will likely be replaced soon as well. I looked more into the Amplifier, there is a good amount of corrosion and 2 of the wires appear nicked. I'll look into it more tomorrow.

I think the rear speakers also do not work. It may just be less work and better payoff to install a new amp and run 8 new speaker wires than running down these issues with a 20 year old amp.

 

That looks like water leaking in through the firewall opening. You might want to make sure your drains under your wiper cowl are clear. Also check the date on the alarm siren while you're under there. Hopefully it's been replaced or removed.
You can search out the alarm troubles and water problems in the search bar.
Here's a video on how to remove the cowl:

 

Thanks,

I'm assuming it was from the past, I drove through the rain when I drove the car home and checked since it rained the other night and see no moisture. All the same, since I dont know the history of the car I'll be doing that this weekend.

I ended up replacing the fog lights, and climate control module over the weekend as well as buffing and cleaning the headlights that were really cloudy, replaced 2 blown door tweeters and the blown rear speakers with similar replacements.

There's also significant cracking in the driver side dash, made worse by me trying to replace the driver side vent and finding out much of the dash and light switch is held in place with some kind of putty or gasket maker. so I ordered a good condition full upper and lower dash kit and a good condition light switch.

Also ordered a good amount of gofast parts from needswings. Dual CAI, catch can, intake manifolds & crossover, supercooler & Intercooler isolation kit. The previous owner seems to have gotten a polish upper supercharger pulley & tune from EuroCharged.

The only other thing I can think of doing in the future is replacing the stock amp but will need to look into it. It's been several years since I replaced any amps. I'm assuming I'd go with RCAs to the amp, (maybe run dedicated wiring to the door tweeters off the HU?) and then have to run new wires to all 4 speakers.

I tried replacing the stock amp with anither infinity off of ebay over the weekend but the amp was bad, kept popping the fuse. I kept thinking it was a wiring fault since 2 of the wires were cut and then at a later point spliced back in and soldered back into the connector, but then after using the original amp, everything worked fine. Went through probably 12 fuses. Now I have a 15a manual reset circuit breaker in that fuse slot lol.

Popped fuses

Ebay amp

Putty

Breakers

 

Damn, I have literally no self control when it comes to projects and stuff like that. I bought a spool of 100' of 14ga OFC speaker wire, a 4ga Amp kit with 2 sets of RCAs, and a JL Audio RD400/4 should be here at the end of the week.

 

I'll probably create a new thread with more of a build log I suppose, this thread isn't about low beams anymore. I did find some answers to the squirrlyness of some of my standing lights though, some liquid in the locking module. Wire brush + Sealed that area and replaced the 'foam' it looks like a repair was attempted before at some point. Also found a lot more rust in the front of the car while replacing the AMP. it took most of the day pulling carpet, hitting wit with a wirebrush and sealing it with POR15. I wasn't able to completeley get the rust or wire brush the front like I wanted due to seats and me being 6'3" but the idea is to do that this weekend and pull the center console, carpet, seats, etc. out and completely fix and seal the rust. I just wasn't ready for 40 degree temps in Texas overnight. Right now I just have a car cover. Still need to do this fix you suggested sir.