Ok, I went to AutoZone and here's the info they gave me:

Code: P0410

Could be:
-air duct system fault
-open or short circuit condition
-poor electrical connection
-secondary air pump faulty

Any ideas on where to go from here, and what this might cost?

 

Search for that code in here. Tons of info on it.

 

Thanks - I've been doing that and have gotten some good info from here. In light of the issue with the headlight, I'm starting to suspect that it might be a fuse - as someone mentioned in another thread. From what I've read, the most common issues seem to be the fuse, relay control and air pump.

I'm probably going to end up taking part of the day off from work today and taking it to a mechanic. I have to get this problem resolved.

Thanks again, everyone, for your help.

 

Did you try the above yet? If it works, it doesn't cost anything to do.

 

It's best not to wait 3 yrs. before trying to figure out what's going on next time (someone had to say that). CEL comes on for a reason. Yes sometimes fairly innocent; but it could be something that may leave you stranded next time. You could also buy an inexpensive code reader, and do it yourself next time. It's a good piece of mind having this. It's simple and you really can do this. If interested, Forum members can direct you to a good buy on one(some are as little as $40.-50. I believe), or try a search for code readers. Edit: PO410 = Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction.

 

I do appreciate that fact but you're talking to someone who got in over her head with this car in the first place and I'm basically biding my time until I can sell it. No offense to anyone here, but I completely regret the day I bought this car. Not that I hate it, per se, but it's a car that I can't afford. I didn't think to ask the questions as to how expensive it could be, that it would cost $1,000 to change the tires or $100 to change the oil, or basically $1,000 every time something goes wrong with it. I just didn't know to ask the right questions, and I don't work on cars. But, trust me, this is the last time I will get into this type of situation.

For now, I can only do what has to be done on the car. I'm all for taking care of a vehicle but I can't always do that with this car. A lot of people have said that the CEL is probably not a big thing so I chose to ignore it - maybe a bad idea, maybe not. Because of the new law in Texas that won't let it pass inspection with the CEL on, I'm left with no choice but to fix the problem. I'm guessing that I'll end up spending $500+.

I'm leaving work and the first thing I'm going to do is disconnect the battery and all that. I'm hoping this will do the trick.

 

I'm sorry that I wasn't able to read between the lines, and I do feel your pain...BUT it is also possible that when you remedy this code issue(minor hopefully), that you'll have tens of thousands of miles with no issues like a lot of owners do with this well built car. And remember, we change our oil 1/2 as often as a typical vehicle, so that helps. Good Luck w/ what ever you decide.

 

There's no reason why you should've known to read between the lines. No problem.

I went to AutoZone and the guy there said that if I disconnect the battery and all that, it wouldn't make a difference because the info is stored once the light is activated. (I didn't tell him what I was doing, I went in to ask what tool I needed to disconnect the battery cable - yes, I'm that dumb - and he knew right away why I wanted to do that.) I then went to visit a guy that has a tire business who knows cars very well, and he told me the same thing. I then went to a mechanic and spent 3 hrs there. He said that the oil was low - even though I had someone check it 2 days ago. He changed the oil and said that was the only code he was getting - low oil. I told him that wasn't possible because the light had been on for 3 yrs and I've changed the oil numerous times. Of course, after all that and $65 later, the check engine light came on when I took it to get inspected.

I give up. I'm taking it to a Chrysler dealer tomorrow. I'm sure I can kiss at least $1,000 goodbye. This is why I regret ever buying this car. No one knows how to deal with it except a dealer, everything is a big deal, everything is a mystery. I'm ready to torch the thing.

 

To start, if you got an oil change for $65, chances are you did not get the proper oil or filter for it, as the oil and filter cost more than that. Second, most members on this forum know these cars very well.... even better than the dealers. Third, if you do not even know what tool you would need to take a battery cable off...... then..... Wow...... Need I say any more.

The best thing you could do is to sell this car, and get a lease that has free services and repairs included in the lease. Good luck with the stealership.

 

Okay, this person told you this and this person told you that. I assume you still have not disconnected/ reconnected the battery. What have you got to lose.

 

I'm a female - I don't work on cars and have no desire to. I realize that a lot of people here understand these cars, that's why I come here, but if it is the air pump or whatever else, I can't replace it anyway. I got a lot of good info here but it's limited to the point of what I can or cannot do. And it gives me good info so that I know I'm not being totally ripped off by a mechanic.

If I could get rid of the car, I would've by now....trust me.

 

Yea, I suppose I could try it. From looking at the battery, it appears that I need a wrench to disconnect the cable. I thought I had a wrench here at home but I don't. When I calm down from my frustrating day, I may go out and get one and give it a try.

 

Hey, go back to the day when you took the picture in your gallery saying this was your favorite toy. Find a friend with a wrentch, have him disconnect the battery and see what happens. If it doesn't work, then go to the dealer. You've got enough info here to hopefully get you to a good place with them.

Good luck!

 

That was before I found out that it was a money pit. That changed my opinion, unfortunately. It's hard to feel warm and fuzzy about something that can put you in financial ruin.

I tried to disconnect the battery but the cable is really hard to get off. I don't want to mess with it and screw something up so I'm going to get someone to help me with it. If that doesn't work, I'll take it to the dealer. Thank you for your help. I really appreciate everyone's help here.

 

Of all the HAXD members in Houston, can't one of you go over and give SpeedDemon a hand?

 

Wow, that is super-sweet and thoughtful. Thank you for that, Bill. There are a couple of guys in my office that can probably help me, and several in the field who would come in if I asked them. I asked a neighbor across the street from me but he injured his knee and couldn't come outside.

I'm trying to get this taken care of so that I can go visit my son this weekend at college for his birthday. I'm not about to drive through those small towns from Houston to San Marcos with an inspection sticker expired. haha.

 

For anyone who might need this information in the future, I did try the thing with disconnecting the battery and opening the gas cap. It seems that this actually ended up worsening things. First of all, the CEL did go out but the state inspection place could see that the battery had been disconnected and told me that the codes now have to re-set themselves. I think this possible outcome was mentioned in this thread, or somewhere else on the forum and I was afraid of this. That means I now have to drive it about 100 miles (exactly how many miles is a mystery, of course) before the codes re-set. After that, the CEL may or may not come back on.

So I took the car to the dealership who said, as he was writing up the paperwork, "Yea, these cars are a real challenge. We only let mechanics who are certified for Crossfire to work on them." As he was writing it up, I let him know that the light was currently out because the battery had been disconnected. He rolled his eyes and asked why a mechanic would do such a thing (I didn't tell him that I did it), and he stopped writing. He said that as long as the light was out and the codes weren't re-set, then there wasn't anything they could do until the light came back on.

So, I'm back to square one. The only positive thing that may happen is that I drive the car for 100 miles, the CEL doesn't come back on, and I can get the car to pass inspection. I'm not holding my breath....

 

I hope you haven't spent money yet and the car is not at the dealer. first off unless you are under warrenty NEVER go to a dealer and especially if you are a woman that doesn't work on a car. You will spend hundreds more than you need to. If the check enigne light is out all you have to do is drive about 75 miles and have turned the car on an off about three time. The system Texas uses will still detect the code unless you have completed a few drive cycles without thowing the code again. the good new is you may not throw that code again.

you wil need the headlight working to pass inspection. Take it somewhere else. If you were in Dallas I would fix it for free. the best place to take these cars is to an independent shop that works on Mercedes. any tech that has worked on an SLK can work on your car. did they actually try to chanage the bulb? or just told you it was wiring? Any shop can change the bulb.

As far as tires go. If get a set 18" wheels like I have in my signature, the cost to replace tires goes WAY down.

 

Thanks for your reply, Lantana. Well, the headlight issue has been resolved. Someone on this site suggested that it might be the fuse and that's what it was. So that's fixed. The tires aren't an issue at this time, either.

The problem is still the 'check engine light'. So you're saying to drive it for 75 miles, and during that timeframe the engine needs to be turned on and off 3 different times, and that should re-set everything? I, too, am hoping that the CEL won't come back on once the codes re-set (again, not holding my breath). If it does come back on, I'll have to take it to a shop again. I can find an independent Mercedes shop - that sounds like a far better option than a dealership. I hate taking my car to the dealership because I always feel ripped off. Thanks for the suggestion - I didn't think of that.

Hey, I wish I were in Dallas, too. I'm going to head your way tonight for 40 miles on I-45 and then turn back around again. That'll be 80 miles and the coudes should be re-set (I'll also make periodic stops to turn the engine off and back on again). Then I'll see what happens with the light. Thanks again.

 

As long at you put on the miles I mentioned and and have started the car a few time since the light was turned off you will pass inspection. just get to an inspection place asap after doing the drive cycle. These really are good cars and don't have to be expensive to fix. Hopefully all this cost you was a fuse instead of a thousand dollars! Let us know how it goes.

I didn't like the tire cost either. One problem is that the stock tire sizes restrict you to just a few brands and the rear 19 inch tires are expensive. Going with 18" wheels all around opens up much better shopping opportunities. I would suggest the 224 40 18 (stock size) on the fron and 255 or 265 40 18 on the back. Tons of cost effective choices and you will have a better ride as well.