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GeneralThis section is threads for discussion that is not related to the Crossfire or other cars. It can be about sports, movies etc. - But NO POLITICS please
Great post as this is the only picture I've seen our compressor and its control valve. I've seen the compressor being up underneath the car last night and with my breather covers leaking there was quite a bit of oil. I'm wondering now if this might be he problem? Here we go again lol. As you said though the system needs to be purged before the valve can be removed.
Surely our compressors use a clutch, so this could apply any later model cars that we own only?
This should be made clear, it is in the General forum but who looks at the forum heading sometimes.
Last edited by onehundred80; Jun 23, 2020 at 07:30 AM.
Surely our compressors use a clutch, so this could apply any later model cars that we own only?
This should be made clear, it is in the General forum but who looks at the forum heading sometimes.
What does this have to do with our cars? YOU sure don't know OUR compressor type - the Crossfire uses a conventional clutch/compressor system.
For this very reason, I engage the A/C clutch at least twice a month, just to keep the pump lubricated, as I do not believe ours' engages automatically from time to time, like many did in the past.
(My Ford Van would engage the A/c clutch for maybe 5 seconds every so often, to lube the pump.)
As to pre-season inspections - I sincerely believe that most "annual maintenance" on auto A/C systems is WHY they fail. I NEVER have my system 'serviced' and have had many cars/vans with A/C systems that lasted past 200,000 miles.
I learned, over forty years ago, while working in an A/C manufacturing plant, how to keep A/C systems happy and healthy, and 'recharging' them was NOT on the list. The variable stroke compressors are, indeed, a different animal. But the conventional systems (like in our cars) will last longer if you:
1) NEVER close any vents. The system is designed to move a certain amount of heat. Closing vents limits air flow, do not do that.
2) Run the fan at least at 75% of full speed at all times. Again, the system is designed to move a certain abount of heat.
If you dno't like the wind blowing on you, direct the air away from you. If it is too cold, DO NOT turn the fan speed down, add some heat with the temperature controls.
3) The day you bring the car home, put a plastic or fiber (not metal) bug screen ahead of the condenser, maybe 2-4 inches ahead. This will stop bugs, they will die, dry out, and fall to the ground - and not pack into the condenser or radiator, which will limit needed air flow.
The newer systems that use a variable stroke don't really need these measures, not as much anyway, as the system has sophisticated monitoring and controls to address issues of low air flow. But our cars at not that advanced, our A/C is very basic.
Last edited by pizzaguy; Jun 23, 2020 at 11:39 AM.
What does this have to do with our cars? YOU sure don't know OUR compressor type - the Crossfire uses a conventional clutch/compressor system.
For this very reason, I engage the A/C clutch at least twice a month, just to keep the pump lubricated, as I do not believe ours' engages automatically from time to time, like many did in the past.
(My Ford Van would engage the A/c clutch for maybe 5 seconds every so often, to lube the pump.)
As to pre-season inspections - I sincerely believe that most "annual maintenance" on auto A/C systems is WHY they fail. I NEVER have my system 'serviced' and have had many cars/vans with A/C systems that lasted past 200,000 miles.
I learned, over forty years ago, while working in an A/C manufacturing plant, how to keep A/C systems happy and healthy, and 'recharging' them was NOT on the list. The variable stroke compressors are, indeed, a different animal. But the conventional systems (like in our cars) will last longer if you:
1) NEVER close any vents. The system is designed to move a certain amount of heat. Closing vents limits air flow, do not do that.
2) Run the fan at least at 75% of full speed at all times. Again, the system is designed to move a certain abount of heat.
If you dno't like the wind blowing on you, direct the air away from you. If it is too cold, DO NOT turn the fan speed down, add some heat with the temperature controls.
3) The day you bring the car home, put a plastic or fiber (not metal) bug screen ahead of the condenser, maybe 2-4 inches ahead. This will stop bugs, they will die, dry out, and fall to the ground - and not pack into the condenser or radiator, which will limit needed air flow.
The newer systems that use a variable stroke don't really need these measures, not as much anyway, as the system has sophisticated monitoring and controls to address issues of low air flow. But our cars at not that advanced, our A/C is very basic.
How do you go about engaging the clutch and lubricating it as well? I currently have the problem of my clutch not engaging and my fan only comes on when its required to keep engine temps where they should be. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance
Only help I can provide is the schematic and to check the connectors internal to the HVAC control module.
( you probably know this, the HVAC control module is the thing with the dial and wheels and AC button.
I just turn the A/C on, if the engine is running and the ambient temperature is over about 39F, the clutch will engage - IF there is nothing wrong with the system or car.
The engine fan will come on at slow speed when the clutch engages, of course.
I just turn the A/C on, if the engine is running and the ambient temperature is over about 39F, the clutch will engage - IF there is nothing wrong with the system or car.
The engine fan will come on at slow speed when the clutch engages, of course.
Yeah that's my current problem, no engagement of the clutch while turning on the AC. I'm probably going to have to eventually have someone look at it. I've tried almost everything it seems and no progress and still no hard evidence on what's the root cause. Quite frustrating as I usually able to fix mostly everything on my car, but AC/Heater systems is the least of my knowledge. Hell I've felt like I've learned a hell of a lot more about it though in the last three days than in my 21 years of driving lol.
From: The Heartland - Topeka, the capital city, Ks
Re: A/C Pre(?) season system inspection/check?
My independent M/B mechanic recommends starting that A/C system once a month. It keeps the many seals lubed, which aid in preventing leaks. Compressors are pretty tuff machines, so when the system starts blowing hot air, low OR no Freon because of a leak somewhere is usually the culprit. I don't know about the XFire compressor, but some others will NOT even engage with no or low Freon - to prevent possible resulting damage. I agree pretty much with Pizzguy - lower temp first BEFORE turning down the blower. I've known that most of my life!
Yeah that's my current problem, no engagement of the clutch while turning on the AC. I'm probably going to have to eventually have someone look at it. I've tried almost everything it seems and no progress and still no hard evidence on what's the root cause. Quite frustrating as I usually able to fix mostly everything on my car, but AC/Heater systems is the least of my knowledge. Hell I've felt like I've learned a hell of a lot more about it though in the last three days than in my 21 years of driving lol.
Inside the black plastic box that holds the RCM, PCM and BCM there is an electrical connector mounted on the front of the big box. That connector is for the AC compressor. You can bypass the control module input/safety limits and test the compressor clutch by directly applying 12v jumped from the battery directly to the compressor at that connector. If the clutch engages you know it is a safety switch/low pressure problem or control module problem. If the clutch does not engage then it is the clutch compressor problem. I've forgotten what color the wire is, but you can see it in the wiring diagrams in the service manual.
Inside the black plastic box that holds the RCM, PCM and BCM there is an electrical connector mounted on the front of the big box. That connector is for the AC compressor. You can bypass the control module input/safety limits and test the compressor clutch by directly applying 12v jumped from the battery directly to the compressor at that connector. If the clutch engages you know it is a safety switch/low pressure problem or control module problem. If the clutch does not engage then it is the clutch compressor problem. I've forgotten what color the wire is, but you can see it in the wiring diagrams in the service manual.
Sorry if this sounds novice, well it is for men with this type of stuff but what do I use to apply the 12V? Also on the battery is it the positive or negative terminal I jump it from? Thanks in advance
The positive (red ) one and BE CAREFULL !!!
It's best to connect the wire to the clutch connector, NOT THE GROUND SIDE then touch the other end to the positive terminal.
The other way, you are carrying a HOT wire around many ground sources. Burns or fire can result !!!!
Sorry if this sounds novice, well it is for men with this type of stuff but what do I use to apply the 12V? Also on the battery is it the positive or negative terminal I jump it from? Thanks in advance
You use a short piece of wire. The wire on the car is 18 gauge so just about anything you have laying around will work. I use a number 12 gauge solid wire as it is stiff, insulated and easy to work with. I checked the wiring diagrams and the wires you are concerned with are Blue/green coming from the A/C control module inside the car. When you take the connector apart you will see in very small numbers the pin designation. It is pin three male coming from the A/C module, connecting to the female which runs to the compressor clutch. The wire on the female part of the connector looks black to me. Simple take your wire put one end into the female socket in the connector and place the other end of the wire on the positive post of the battery. No need to start the car or even have the key in the ignition switch. You will hear the clutch engage when you make contact with the positive battery post. This is much easier than trying to get down to the compressor and fiddling around in the tight spaces down there as everything is up topside and easy to reach. Added benefit is it test the wiring from the connector to the clutch at the same time.
A/C Pre(?) season system inspection/check?
Re: A/C Pre(?) season system inspection/check?
