Advice on a Stingray
Re: Advice on a Stingray
Mrmiata,
the birdcage is comprised of the A pillars, the T top and the B pillars .
Also check the vacuum operated headlights and wiper door. The vacuum system can be costly if it's not working with parts missing. Ask for original doc's like build sheet or tank sheet, bill of sale, maintenance records. These would add to the value as well as a matching engine.
Inspect it before it is painted. Check the bonding stripes that hold the fiberglass together, top of fenders and 1/4's.
also go to the forum.
the birdcage is comprised of the A pillars, the T top and the B pillars .
Also check the vacuum operated headlights and wiper door. The vacuum system can be costly if it's not working with parts missing. Ask for original doc's like build sheet or tank sheet, bill of sale, maintenance records. These would add to the value as well as a matching engine.
Inspect it before it is painted. Check the bonding stripes that hold the fiberglass together, top of fenders and 1/4's.
also go to the forum.
Re: Advice on a Stingray
Yes, engine performance started to suffer after 1971. Most of that is detuning for the eventual arrival of the catalytic converter by reducing compression ratios and adding smog controls, such as the air pump to the engine. Catalytic converters weren't added until 1975 (probably earlier in California). Pre-1975 models can be tweaked for older L82 horsepower levels without too much effort.
Anyway, unless it is an LT-1 or some other very rare model, the real value is in what shape it is in. If it is a completely original L-82 with low miles, you value will obviously be higher.
Re: Advice on a Stingray
Thank you everyone for your input. At least I won't feel like I'm wearing a blind fold and handing out cash now!
Wife is the one that said "ohhh..." on this car, but I'm not opposed by any means.
I'm kinda in the middle, since if this doesn't pan out she'll be back on the vanilla interior roadsters..
Wife is the one that said "ohhh..." on this car, but I'm not opposed by any means.
I'm kinda in the middle, since if this doesn't pan out she'll be back on the vanilla interior roadsters..
Re: Advice on a Stingray
Seriously, around here, if not an LT1, it would be lucky to bring 9K in excellent shape... Usually runs by the years on the regular vettes. Except pre 1971...they can bring more. But after 70, a 71 is usually in the 7100 dollar range, and it goes up....76 is 7600 dollars and so on...unless they are rare like the LT1 or a Pace Car...something on that order...good luck...and yes, the frames will rust on some of those 70's models...
Re: Advice on a Stingray
In 1972 advertised HP ratings changed from Gross HP to Net HP. Gross HP ratings were very nebulous and manufacturers were known to list whatever they wanted.
Generally, subtracting 25% is good rule of thumb for estimating Net HP from Gross HP. Larger engines tended have more inflated gross HP numbers than smaller engines. To keep it simple, I mentally subtract 100 HP when talking about pre-1972 ratings. When I hear "425 HP big block chevy" I think "325 HP big block chevy".
This website has some really interesting info.
Understanding Gross vs. Net Horsepower Ratings
This thread on a GM forum has some GREAT data comparing the Gross HP & Net HP ratings for 1971 engines.
Net and gross ratings for 1971 GM + Mopar engines
The SAE standard changed again in 2005 and is the reason many engines were rated lower HP in 2006.
Before 1972, most American engines were rated under the methodology laid out in Society of American Engineers (SAE) standards J245 and J1995, which calculated the output of a 'bare' engine on a test stand with no accessories, free-flowing exhaust headers (no mufflers), and optimal ignition timing,with a correction factor for standard atmospheric conditions.
This website has some really interesting info.
Understanding Gross vs. Net Horsepower Ratings
The result of the new rating system was a dramatic drop in advertised power. The rated output of Cadillac Eldorado's mammoth 500 cu. in. (8.2L) V-8, for instance, dropped from 400 gross horsepower (298 kW) in 1970 to 360 gross horsepower (269 kW) in 1971, a drop of about 10%. The engine was basically unchanged for 1971, but the switch to SAE net ratings reduced the rated output to only 235 net horsepower (175 kW). (Although GM did not quote a net horsepower rating for the higher-compression 1970 engine, it was probably 275-285 hp (205-213 kW).) In some cases, actual output did drop during this period, mostly due to emissions-related changes, but the reduction in as-installed power was generally far less drastic than the numbers suggested.
Net and gross ratings for 1971 GM + Mopar engines
The SAE standard changed again in 2005 and is the reason many engines were rated lower HP in 2006.
Re: Advice on a Stingray
This link will answer anything you could ever want to know about C3 Corvettes, like the one you are looking at. LINK On the left side of the screen are links to suppliers. Check out Wilcox and Corvette Central for an idea of what parts cost. I am building a 79 C3. With the help of that web page I linked to, mine now has a roller cam motor with Tuned Port Injection and a four speed automatic. You should go to the link and search both "Birdcage" and "Frame rust". These are the two most important things you need to know about before you spend a cent! The next time you go see this car, remove the kick panels in front of both doors on the inside of the car. What you will see is the bottom of the Birdcage, where it fastens to the frame, and a place you do not want to find rust. I bought one from LA (no rust) off E-Bay I had the owner post photos of the frame and body before I bid. I got the car for $5300 and flew to Los Angeles to pick it up. It was in such good shape, my wife and I drove it up the coast all the way to Seattle.
Last edited by ZORRO; 05-14-2013 at 08:22 PM.
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