Located below the throttle body, in the Y-pipe...snaps straight down into the hole, wiring attached to it....

 

Dosent it seem odd that that would be called the 'intake' air temp since it is after the SC and heated by the SC??? True 'intake' air would be before the TB.. or at least, at the TB...


Doc, I thought that was the MAP sensor.... then I looked it up in the parts manual.... so I was thinking the right part, but wrong name.....

 

Thanks MikeR: IATS = Intake Air Temp Sensor. It's no dam wonder the grandkids won't text message me! I can't figure out what the H they said without asking and showing my age.

 

sure can't figure out why she blew out, but it certainly slowed things down...I believe it's has been leaking looking at the broken clip...car wasn't running as quick as she usually does at the CAA. I blamed it on the heat. She's back to ripping the tires off again....got to love a roadster, or roaster....in the tire's case...

 

Doc, I dont like any of the little clips they use to lock the connectors on.... they are hard to undo on some and break too easily.... I think the engine heat helps make them a little more brittle... and most of them can NOT be replaced without splicing on a new connector or replacing the harness...

 

I have been having, I think, similar problems. Mine idles at about 500 or 600rpms after the tune and has lately been rough at times. It has died twice while braking and when it idles rough, it won't pick up until after 800 rpms. If I try to give it gas it hickups and stutters, but again will pick up once rpms are higher. I was thinking it may be fuel filter clogged, cause it is happening more often and getting a bit worse everytime. Following this thread has me thinking of changing out a handful of sensors to cover all angles. Any ideas would be helpful.

 

I can't promise you it will fix your problem, but this would have been the last sensor I would have thought of. It's not that hard to check, but isn't real easy to see either. Take off the engine cover, look straight down behind the throttle body, sits in the middle of the Y-pipe...the clips slip over the edge to secure it...so to remove, pinch the two sides, pull straight up. My one clip, was all but torn loose. So, it has been trying to blow out for awhile. Rough idle, or no idle and die...were the first symptons...until it blew, then it didn't want to run at all...sounded like it was hitting on a couple of cylinders..

 

Just called the local MERC dealer and they say they need a VIN to mathc parts. Can anyone provide the part numbers for the Crank position sensor, Cam position sensor, and IAT sensor? I figure I will change them all out for due diligence. Thanks

EDIT: Is the price right for these? $100-150 for each?

 

Go to AutohausAZ.com and look them up for the SLK32....

Bosch Camshaft sensor 0232103037 $59
Bosch Crankshaft sensor 0261210170 $39
no IAT listed

search for...
fig 08-605 #-24 intake temp sensor, mopar part # 5080343AA which has been changed to 4862635AA
about $20



Having a spare of each of these on hand might be a REALLY good idea....

 

I looked at the IAT sensor and it looked ok. Not sure what to look for. clips were there, but awaiting a cooldown before pulling or poking.

Thanks for the numbers Mike

 

IAT is 05080343AA

Crank sensor ranges from 35-45 bucks, the Cam sensor is easily twice to three times that, and the IAT is 18 at MB, 34 at Chrysler...MB is always cheaper for parts if you have a store nearby...

 

I checked the bolts for the valve covers and off course they were loose. I tightened the ones I could easily get to, and took the car out for some highway pulls against a couple of srt4's. The Stage2 SRT4 I pulled a car or two, Stage3 SRT4 he pulled a car on me up to 160. Car ran fine with no signs of pressure leak. I need to find the torq specs for the valve covers and go over all of them, for i didn't want to keep wrenching until too tight. Anyone know off hand?

another question, is the fuel filter easy to change out?

 

The only reference to torque spec I can find is for the NA intake... which says 15ft/lbs... but I do not know what size the bolts are.

The SRT6 uses 6mm torx screws.. according to the reference charts, the highest torque for a 6mm bolt is 9ft/lbs....


Can someone who knows tell us what the SRT6 intake bolts should be torqued to???


Dont forget to use some BLUE loctite when you torque them so they will stay in place...


The fuel filter is fairly easy to do, you just need to make sure to clamp the hoses off, disconnect the battery and release the pressure in the fuel rail(carefully). You will still get some fuel when you pull the hoses, but not as much as you will if you dont clamp them first.....

 

Finally found it in the manual.

9-876

INSTALLATION

1. Check the gasket for tearing and breakage. If damage is evident, replace the gasket.
2. Position the cylinder head covers (2) on the cylinder
head. Install the cylinder head cover bolts (1)
and tighten to 10 N·m (7 ft. lbs.).

 

Sorry, I was thinking intake plenum bolts..... I still havent found the torque spec for them.....

 

Doc, did you get the new IAT sensor installed??

edit: never mind, I see the post...

 

5 minutes....she runs better than ever....so, it has been leaking for awhile before it finally came out...never been close to that area for any reason...so not sure why the clip broke...we installed the dual cai's over a year ago...but having the throttle body off still isn't that close to the sensor...so not sure whether to warn people to look at this or not, but this thread is there for the record...at least my crankshaft sensor is updated as well. I have a spare crank sensor, and a spare cam sensor on hand...who knows....but, she's running fine....

 

That is good news Doc... I have the spare crank and cam sensors too... need to get an IAT sensor in the drawer too..