I have a 2004 crossfire owned it for about a year. Beautiful car, only has 3,000 miles, always been parked in the garage never been driven in the rain. Went to start it the other day and the battery was low, it attempted to crank but only turned over slightly. Hooked it to a charger and attempted to start it a few minutes later. It turned over and started with a little difficulty. It ran a couple of minutes and then sputtered and died. It turned over fine after that but would not start. Did not know exactly what to do - thought it might be fuel related and to rule that out took off air cleaner assembly and shot starting fluid in. It ran a couple of seconds. Attempted this a second time and got quite a backfire. Now am getting nothing no attempt to start at all, it turns over fine but will not run. I checked the battery and it is fine even unhooked the cables and charged the battery overnight.

I am at a loss, any ideas where to go from here?

 

Are there any codes set? Engine light?

 

A good starting point, will be our infamous Crankshaft positioning sensor.

 

I do not have a code reader and I can not tell if the engine light is on as it will not start. I will try and locate a code reader.

 

It ran for a few minutes you said, did you notice the light then?
Unplug the CPS and the Camshaft PS a couple of times or spray the connectors with contact cleaner, it may be just poor contacts. Hopefully anyway.

 

What is the pressure on the fuel rail ? (Sounds like a fuel problem).

 

Woody claims that a standard A/C test gauge will fit the test point.
Haven't tried it myself, but I do know that Woody is seldom wrong.
( you are looking for 55-60 PSI )

 

R12 maybe but who wants gasoline in an AC gauge. Besides a good FI gauge has a relief tube.

 

Agreed. Just stating what Woody said.

( Walmart has a pretty good looking tester for $21.96 ) :
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-Fuel...&wl13=&veh=sem

 

I am pretty sure that whatever fluid or gas is being tested does not get into the inner workings of the instrument, the workings being contained behind a barrier of some sort.

 

Yes, in most cases, dial pressure indicators work off a copper spiral tube that is sealed and gear connected to the dial.

 

I did not notice the check engine light being on when I last ran it. As for the fuel issue I did disconnect the fitting at the fuel rail and placed the end in a container and had someone turn the key on and no fuel. There was no fuel when cranking as well. I did check all fuses and there is power to them and none are blown.

I will unplug the sensors and use the contact cleaner as well.

 

If there is no fuel at the port when the key is turned on, then check the engine relay and the fuel relay in the RCM to see if they are both being energized.
Also check the 3 joints on the back of the RCM as referenced in the "Mystery No Start" thread.

 

I'll put I'll put my money on the RCM

 

If the fuel relay is not energized have you aver manually pushed the contacts over to make contact. Just for Dx purposes.

 

NOTE: If the engine relay energizes, and the fuel relay does not, then you have an open coil on the fuel relay or fuse 3 is blown :

 

I did check the RCM and with the key on the engine control relay activated but the fuel pump relay did not. I manually activated it but still no fuel at the rail. I even tried the re-solder fix of the three contacts on the RCM. All fuses are good and there is power to and through all fuses. What do yo mean by an open coil?

Disconnected the crankshaft and camshaft sensors and sprayed contact cleaner (they looked immacualate).

I will have access to a code reader in the next day or two and will check for codes.

 

That means that the wire that makes up the coil has a break in it, or is shorted out internally.. there are a lot of options on how to repair it and all of them can be found here on the form. The simple one though is to buy a new RCM install it and be done and on your way and send the old one to tighed1, he will refurbish it and send it back to you and then you can put it in the trunk for a spare.

 

The simple way is to send tighed1 your RCM for repair!
$30 vs $150
I test, repair/replace bad relays, resolder bad joints AND perform the Me So Horny mod (horn works without the key). Email me for info yo!

tighed1@hotmail.com

 

Have you kept track of how many RCM's you have repaired DJ ?