Hey gang. I hear a lot of forum folks raving about the Sprint Booster. I checked some threads on the topic and it seems to reduce throttle lag. Is this for both the auto and manual?

I have a manual and I have a hard time rev matching when downshifting. The throttle is unresponsive. In order to rev match, I have to ramp up the RPM slowly... If I press the throttle too hard, the RPMs will completely overshoot my target. It's annoying.

Is this the issue that the Sprint Booster is designed to fix? Is there anyone in the Atlanta area that wouldn't mind meeting and letting me check out their throttle before I spend a couple hundred $$$ on the Sprint Booster?

Thanks everyone.

 

Yeah, rev matching is a little tricky, I find that a quick push to the floor matches pretty well, you can actually hear my foot tap the floor. The hardest one is 3rd to 2nd. I don't have a sprint booster, so I am awaiting an answer to your question as well.

 

I have a Sprint Booster but my car has an auto but I can tell you it does correct the throttle lag, it now behaves very close to a cable. I believe from your question it will help your issue. Maybe someone with a manual and Sprint Booster will answer but the transmission will not change the fact that if your issue is quickness of the throttle it will correct it. From what a lot of guys with a manual had to say I would order the auto version as its less aggressive and smoother.

 

It reduces throttle lag on the manuals too.
I have the Sprintbooster for the manual - it is severe.
Setting off in 2nd is easier than in 1st.
I would like to try the auto version in the manual for comparison.

 

I'm selling mine if anyone is interested.

Auto version - $200 + shipping and insurance.

Read all about it...

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...sprint+booster

 

It's very easy to rev match the throttle to gear shifts. what you do is, right before down shifting is blip the throttle all the way to the floor, it works perfectly everytime. just takes practice. Those Sprint booster things are expensive, for that price your halfway to sending in the ecu to get re mapped for more power and better throttle response by the guys a SI.

I think the SB is more of a cheap band-aid fix. And it doesn't really fix the lag unless you reset the throttle every other trip, the manual version is way too sensitive to use on the street. Just spend the money on the ecu upgrade from SI.

 

I disagree with Maxwell.
You DO NOT have to reset the throttle with the Sprintbooster.

 

Concur. It is also not a cheap band-aid fix. If you will read HDDPs analysis of the Sprint Booster I think you will find the information that you are requesting. It should help tremendously with the problem you are having with RPM matching.

 

I have emailed the guy's at SI and they tell me if I send my ECU to be remapped I should leave the Sprint Booster installed. Second I may have been the second Sprint Booster installed and it Does fix the lag and I have NEVER since had to reset my computer.
This is what the Sprint Booster does,
It absolutely corrects throttle lag, Period. In the case of the manual version very aggressively.
This is what the Sprint Booster doesn't do.
It does NOT add HP, Period.
Is it a band-aid? Well that depends on what you want, That's the question to ask yourself. SI adds HP and the SB corrects dive by wire throttle lag so you want your Crossfire to do... what? Maybe both, it would be nice is the SI remap did both but also remember some people don't need or want more HP and the SB is a tested product that works beautifully as advertised.
My $0.02.

 

I had a manual version, and I was constantly resetting the throttle, because after a couple long drives, I found there to be dead spots in the throttle travel, kinda like a dirty tuning pot. Also have to point out the throttle resolution gets wacky with the Sprint booster, but if your only interested in full throttle runs the SB does remove the lag. I just never cared for it, I suggest you order the automatic version.

 

I've never really had a major problem with the throttle response on the car. Maybe its because I tend to apply the throttle smoothly and progressively as the car accelerates, rather than just 'flooring it' and waiting for everything to catch up. Yes, it can be a bit sluggish when synchronizing revs during down changes but not a big problem. I find the best technique is to blip the throttle above the desired revs, with the side of my foot whilst 'heel and toeing', then let in the clutch at the desired point as the revs fall. I always find there is enough time to perform the down change within the braking distance. I can't say I have ever had to push the pedal to the floor either.

Despite the glowing reports regarding the Sprint Booster I've not actually bought one as I always felt it was just yet another layer of complication on top of the drive-by-wire system; one algorithm fighting another, and as stated I don't have a big issue with the standard setup anyway.
But rather than dismiss it completely, and the fact that I have sneaky idea of what little there is inside the Sprint Booster I decided to have a go at making my own, but with the added feature of having 3 selectable response curves; standard and two custom maps. So far I have removed the pedal assembly and confirmed the two sensor outputs as being completely linear. I then built up a processor board to take the sensor signals and provide two outputs to feed back to the ECU as the modified pedal signals. I've now got some code running that allows me to upload (via serial link on Zterm etc) 2 maps and select them or the original liner map with switches. The maps are only 16 point at present which may be too coarse but this can be changed, possibly giving more resolution over the first portion of pedal travel. Its running great...on my bench. I will be trying it out for real at the week end. The installation won't be as slick as the SB since I haven't been able to source the AMP connector yet and will be a lot small than my test rig!

 

Wow that's some nice work you've done there Woody !

Now I just feel dumb.

 

seriously, Woody, you must a computer engineer or something? what do you do for a living?

 

This thread has me worried...

I have had the manual version of the SB for six months now and this is my feedback:

1) There is no need to reset the accelerator...
2) It is not aggressive, if you know how to drive a manual... it should only take minutes to adjust your driving style.
3) All it does is remove the lag from the accelerator...
4) It makes the xfire drive like it should have from the factory (i.e., no stupid lag to help the auto box that we do not have in a manual!!!)

 

How can I tell if the previous owner had a sprint booster installed in my manual? Any takers? What does it look like?

 

No chance of blaming your recent encounter with the local constabulary on an over aggressive Sprint Booster then.

I must admit it does appear strange that some people think it's too aggressive and others don't have a problem. It seems to be the same with the ESP/TC; some complain its always kicking when driving 'normally' and others, myself included, never seem to be have a problem with it. It's got to be down to driving styles like you suggest.

Maxwell: I'm the Technical Manager for an electronic temperature monitoring company, which basically means I look after the product design and development. This involves all sorts of stuff like microprocessor controls, RF networks, injection molding, prototyping and CAD. It's much more fun applying it all to cars though.

 

Hello everybody,

Today i installed my sprint-booster and it does work very good!
Now you really feel how much power the engine have!
The response is much faster than before! I wouldn't put it out anymore!
It feels very aggressive but you can also drive quiet.
It was very simple to install, about 5 minutes.
I thought that the chip-tuning was a big difference but now with the
sprintbooster you better feel the extra 22 hp that i get from the chip-tuning.
Thursday i go back to have a second dyno run to see if it changed something
on the acceleration time.