Yea!! The part came in late this afternoon. Too cold to work on it tonight, but if all goes ok will have car running tomorrow morning.

 

Let us know how difficult it was to replace please.

 

Hi MikeR, my husband was called into work so I'm going to attempt to replace the CPS myself. Is it necessary to disconnect the neg battery cable 1st before I follow your instructions listed above?

 

You go girl!

Not necessary to disconnect the battery cable but always a good idea when working on anything electrical on your car.
For you I'd say disconnect it.

Just in case.

 

Thanks tighed1. Appreciate the quick reply. My husband made the mistake of telling me to leave it alone for him to take care of. I said, & what would I do if you weren't around? My dad taught me how to work on my car for just that reason. Plus, never tell a redhead she can't do something!

That said, haha, I may be back with another question.

 

DanielNTX,

Very good information.
It stuff like this that:
a) Reaffirms that the car is worth keeping
b) This board is indispensable
c) Appreciate folks like you providing detailed info.

 

Well...guess I'm going to have to wait after all. The bolt holding the negative battery cable is rusted so badly that the socket that fits won't turn it. it's mashing the bolt as I try to turn it, so I stopped. I did see where the CPS goes. Looks real easy to get to, especially with my small hands. I've got the extensions, and everything else, so tomorrow morning I'll start all over again.

Now it's getting too cold out and my hands are frozen. Weird weather for San Antonio.

My own fault for not keeping up with my car myself! Not any more, though...I'm taking over its care and maintenance again.

What do I do about the rusted bolt on the battery? The positive connection is fine, it's just the negative. The battery is brand new.

 

I do the CPS change without disconnecting the battery. There is no power to it with the key off.

When I have to deal with a rusted bolt, I usually get out the vice-grips. Soak the bolt good with a penetrating oil (liquid wrench or like) and let it set for a while. Then clamp the vice-grips on it and break it free. There are also some nifty wrenches out now that are supposed to be able to grab these flaking bolts. I havent tried them. Good luck...

 

Really feeling stupid and frustrated right now trying to replace the CPS. I've got the e10 to take it off, but its such a tight fit, my husbands arms/hands are too big to get to it, and I'm too short. Any suggestions? We don't want to strip it trying to get it out.

 

Try getting the tool on the bolt, and add in whatever extensions and u-joint pieces you need to get the ratchet in a good position for you to apply torque to the ratchet.

This is one of those bolts that as long as the tool is the right size for the bolt, and is properly pushed into the bolt, will not strip the bolt.

You can get it.
Just take your time and don't rush yourselves.

BC.

 

Ah the memories. I remember I had a screwdriver with the correct head on it. To turn it I had to jam a socket on the end of the screwdriver handle then an extension on that with a ratchet.

Another hint, when you are putting the bolt back in. A little bit of chewing gum, or blu tak if you guys have it there to stick the bolt to the end of the contraption you built to get it out. If you drop it I can end up anywhere...

The most trouble I had was getting the clip that holds the cap on the sensor off. Some money went into the swear jar for that one.

Good luck... As with most things it will be easier the next time you have to do it..

 

sa_red, there is a metal heat shield that is right next to the CPS that restricts access. It is held on by two bolts(E12?). I removed this shield to give myself clear access. It REALLY helps with access to the sensor. I have not put it back on since then. Please put the bolts back in the holes though if you dont put the shield back on.

 

Well, good thing I'm stubborn, with a lot of patience. My husband was ready to take it to a mechanic tomorrow, but after I received the reply from bladecutter saying to take our time and don't rush, I went back out to take a look.

After I tried a few more exasperating times, I stopped, took a deep breath and stared at it. "Lo & behold", I realized the E10 was too big. I put the E8 on it...yea it fit...got it out, switched sensors, screwed it back in. Put the clip back on. Done. Car is purring like it never purred before.

Oh, & MikeR, John did take that plate off earlier. You're right, it made access easier, especially when I used the E8 instead of the E10. But we put it back.

Thank you everyone for all your help. I hope this takes care of everything. It sure feels like it when I'm driving. Now I just need to get that passenger visor.

 

Crossfireforum.org strikes again

Glad you got the car fired up, and avoided the other no start issue at the same time. (RCM)

You have to love it!

Lots of great people have made countless additions to this site.

 

as OLEDOC2U said, some metric sizes do match or come close to matching SAE.
With that said, I'll add, I work as a Service Eng. for Mori Seiki Machine tool dist. I work in metric ALL the time. You can get a loose SAE on a metric bolt, but ultimitly you will "strip the bolt head",not the threads.
A trick I use; we all come across stripped boltshead, whether they be hex or allen (not including screws, using screw drivers). On our cars, rust is the reason, on my machine tools, Coolant can seize a bolt. You can step through the metric/SAE sizes to fit a stripped bolt head. With hex heads you would go down in size and with Allen head, up in size. If your not good with your eyes or math, use a micrometer/caliper to see the sizes.

 

bummer, was just driving home from a service call in Valprasio, Ind. Was sitting in customers parking lot, start my 05 limited conv and got a PO335. Erased it, will see if it comes back. Crossing my fingers, I just bought the car for my wife and I.

 

Welcome XF redo
Glad ya have joined us here
Just so the others know this is the husband of the woman who lost her Crossfire to a train crash recently.
She was not in the car and not injured.
They replaced there beloved black Roadster with another one........

Another Crossfire Bites The Dust

 

Nice tip, thanks.

 

I have found a lot of times, it's just the head of a bolt is froze. Especialy sockethead cap screws, If you start with a drill bit just under the size of the allen key (drill bit spins free by hand in the screw) and drill the center at the bottom of the screw head. Have a couple drill bits ready, you'll have the outer case hardening of the bolt to drill through then go just below the depth of the head on the bolt. Some cases the head of the bolt will pop right off, some times not. If not, start stepping up in drill sizes and maybe go a little deeper into the screw head each time you drill. Once all of the screw heads have been removed, the item your trying to remove will (in most cases) will come off with out much fight and damage. You'll then have the shank of the screw left, with an exhaust manifold that could be a couple inches to grip too for removal. I'm sure a lot of us have used this trick. Although while on the road, I have showed this trick, along with the previously mentioned and surpized a few guys on bolt removal without detroying the parts that are held together by them. So maybe worth mentioning.

 

Thanks XF Redo! I appreciate the information. I've learned so much about my crossfire in the last year. I've got it running fairly smooth, with new tires front and back, pretty red color (my first red car ever) and for Valentines a few years ago, by husband had my windows tinted red. Talk about stand out! I've had my little red for about 5 years and everyday I get compliments on her. She's definitely a one of a kind. I'll get a photo this weekend after she's washed.

Has anyone any ideas about getting visors replaced? Now I don't care how much it costs, I'm so tired of looking at just 1. I also need to fix my cupholder, oh, and I accidentally broke a little lever in my A\C dash vent. Hit it with an umbrella. I also want to clean off the hard water film that has hazed over my headlights. Someone told me I could take it to 'Walmart and they can buff it off. I still don't trust others with my car (some bad experiences in past) and wonder if anyone has suggestions for me to clean it off.
I also need a good headliner cleaner to keep in car to get ink, makeup,etc., off the vinyl.

All for now,

SA_Red