Can you open the doors remotely? If you can't let me know and I might be able to help you.

 

Cranking two or three times then nothing and when you disconnect the battery you get a repeat of the same is a symptom of a failed SKREEM.

 

I agree. You have the symptoms of a failed SKREEM. My car was doing the exact same thing. I took it to the Dealer and it was the SKREEM.

 

I am a new owner of a 2005 limited roadster convertible.
I test drove the car before I got it and had no problems. The owner said the battery may be bad and he has had problems starting it sometimes. I don't think he or I knew what the real issues were.
I bought the car and drove it about 40 miles with no issues and went directly to get a new battery, so I wouldn't have any problems.
I put in the new battery, then the car won't start. Turns over but no start.
I had previously been on here and read about the CPS problem. So I decided to go eat dinner and let the car cool down. After about 1.5 hours I tried to start it again, no go.
Walked home. Went back to the car a few hours later and it started right up.
Parked it in my spot and planned on getting a CPS in the morning.
I did read about the Bosch CPS but wanted to get it started now. Bought a CPS from Advanced Auto Parts because they had one in stock.
Installed it with no problems, thanks to the forums.
Started up no problem, 5 more times. Decided to take it out, got about a block and engine dies. Got lucky, it started again and I turned right back around and made it back.
So I go back to the forums, read about the RCM and reflow the solder joints on the RCM.
Same thing, starts a bunch of times, then decides to die if I even move it.
I start it, push on the wire to the connector on the CPS and it dies. I do this multiple times with the same results and now I think I have found the real issue, the connector or wire. I know this is gonna be a headache. I do more research on the forums.
I read more on the Bosch CPS and someone mentions the pins probably being thicker. I give the CPS one more try. This time I bend the pins slightly just to see if it's the CPS or the connector. Connector feels real tight now.
Car fires up fine now and it's been two days. But I'm still praying that the issue is fixed.
I think my original problem was the CPS and the issue would have been taken care of had I purchased the Bosch CPS.
Can somebody with a Bosch and other brand CPS measure the pins with a micrometer and see if there is a difference?
Thank you everyone for their information that they posted here. It made my repair a lot cheaper, $38 and my free labor.

 

I have a Bosch on order if not only for a backup.

 

I know the Bosch pins are thicker and also heavier,I just went thru 4 sensors from O'Reilly and 2 from auto zone til I got my Bosch.

 

I had a similar problem. The car would become hard to start and eventually the Check Engine idiot light would illuminate. I'd have a local parts store pull the code and it would come up as a failed crank position sensor. I bet I bought a half dozen of them and had a dealer install them. I got tired of this. I finally found a dealer with a MECHANIC who could do more than hang parts. The underlying problem was a chafed wire. He fixed that wire over a year ago and the problem has not re-occurred.

 

Could someone with a spare Bosch CPS look near the ten digit part number (0261210170) and give me the three digit plant ID. Thanks in advance Geechee

 

Box to left of P/N printed on the CPS says "816"....
CCI07072015.jpg

 

Thanks. the Kurlruhe address is the distribution center for all aftermarket parts, but 816 could be the producing plant id.

Thanks again

 

Thanks eveveryone. had my CPS fail on my 2005 roadster a couple of weeks ago. Thanks to all the information you shared, I was able to get it fixed with the proper Bosch part. It is now running like it did when I first brought it home. I cannot even find anyone in South Florida that is even willing to work on it.

 

Was the one that failed a BOSCH CPS? The part # is cast into the over molding and that well tell me if it's a Bosch or another manufacturer. It should be the same as the one you replaced it with. Did you experience any electrical problems with your XF previous to the failure?

 

I don't have it in front of me, but I do remember that last digits of the part I pulled out were 71 and I replaced with a Bosch and the last two digits of it were 70. I know it is the same Bosch others have been using and I am not sure why the part number is different.

The one I had in was the original and I had 10 years and 59,000 miles on it. I think it has been causing problems for some time though. It has not always liked to start for the last couple of years and has been idling rough. Finally, it almost wouldn't start last Friday and I got a check engine light. So, I purchased an OBD II Bluetooth reader and read out the CPS failed code.

It runs like new again now . I am sure my arms will heal in a few weeks....

Tom

 

I biught the Bosch CPS from Rock Auto net $38.26 got it in 2 days had it installed today for $45.00, will keep the unit taken out is a Bosch same number tha I had ordered no problem but so many people said to keep one in the glove box so will keep the one taken out the same Bosch number never had a problem but just to be safe will keep the one taken out today I my glove box as well as the #8 tork socket and a rachet. better to be safe than sorry.

 

So my wife called me a few days ago saying her (she appropriated my crossfire, giving me the kia soul) car wouldn't start. She tried turning it on just one more time and it did. I told her to go home and she made it there safe. When I got home I plugged into the OBD2 port and got the trouble code P0335. Looked that up on Google and saw it was the crankshaft position sensor. Great.... now what????

My father always said, if you don't know how to do the job, pay someone who does. And with that mentality, I started calling some garages around town and they wouldn't touch the Crossfire. Weird but not unheard of. I called the Chrysler dealership in town and they told me they would work on every Chrysler except the Crossfire. They just don't want to deal with the vehicle. That's just messed up... So I called up the dealership that actually helped me out in the past and actually gave me a free wheel when they said it was cracked but not warrantyable. They felt bad for me for some reason and did the warranty anyway; but that's a different story for another day. This time, they were in full on "time to screw this guy over" mode. They said the part was $200 and labor would be about $600-$700. That's quite a variance. Plus I can't just drop that kind of cash. I'm married and the wife says "my money is my money and your money is my money" so this guy (pointing to myself) got no money.

I got on the forum and found everything I needed. Got the Bosch part from Amazon, and the torx socket from an AutoZone in town. When the part arrived, I went to work as the procedure didn't seem difficult. Taking the old sensor out didn't seem too bad. Putting that new one back in took most of the time. I couldn't really see what I was doing very well since it was night out there. The bolt did fall, but I was able to retrieve it from under the car. Lucky, I suppose... After everything was in its place, I turned the car on.... wait, it started up?! you mean I did this right? Eyes went straight to the OBD2 scanner. No trouble codes. A wave of accomplishment washed over me. My wife's pocket book is still intact. The stealership has been defied yet again.

This was probably an easy fix for those here at the forum, but this was very significant for me. I wanted to thank all of you guys who unknowingly helped me out. Oh I didn't forget to set the clock. Wifey definitely would have reminded me to fix it otherwise.

 

my 2004 would not start. put in new battery but 2 days later it did the same thing. shop replaced the crank shaft position sensor ... end of problem

 

Word to the wise, use a Mercedes Crankshaft Position Sensor, not an aftermarket sensor. My Crossfire just quit on me and I pulled the code for the CPS. so off to NAPA I went and got a special deal for $45 for a NAPA brand. Put it in, drove 500 feet down the road again and the car quit. Same code. Put a Mercedes (Bosch) and haven't had any issues in the last 7,000 miles.

 

HELP please; Mr. Wizard(s): Dreaded stalling (twice a few days ago) & now cranks about 5 seconds even with key released, with no start. Note; when cranking stops, key still on, humming coming from RCM box by battery, then a few clicking sounds. (wife's daily driver since new, '05 Roadster NA, need to fix asap myself if possible)
Recent history, please bear with me; first stall, thought out of gas (it was quite low) added some, started up & got her home. Stalled again next day, changed Crank. P.S., got her home. Used Napa; only one I could get on short notice. (Bosch ordered from Amazon)
Next day; added some solder on the 3 suspect RCM joints (THANKS Tighed1 & everyone else!!) I drove it 45 miles with a few stops along the way, no problems. BUT:
Today; cranks, no start; with symptoms stated above. No C.E.L. at any time, no code reader used yet.
Reviewing much info here; now thinking fuel pump relay. Maybe original CPS was still ok. Going to check now; spray some carb cleaner down intake & see if she'll fire.
Tighed1: if you are here, can I send you the RCM, if necessary? Read something about possible loaner, is that still available? I'll be back.

 

Try one step at a time. Replace the CPS with the Bosch and see how it runs. Mixing fixes by throwing hand grenades at it gets tough to decipher later on as to what works and what doesn't.

Did you get the solder to flow nicely around the pins?

 

DO NOT spray carb cleaner down the intake.. MAF sensors have a specific cleaner and do not like carb cleaners!