Sounds like I need to rig up a relay for direct 12VDC on that bad boy when I upgrade the Super Charger pulley and IC system.

Thanks for doing the research Steve!!!

Cheers!

 

All ready did that on post #12 of this thread. Both voltage sources are fused & hot all the time, so the key don't have to be on or even in the car. I can stand several feet away from the car & turn both circuits on and off with one little key fob so the coolant can be circulating and cooled by the fans .

 

Thanks Steve,

This weekend I am going to run an isolated circuit to the IC pump and have the pump run whenever the the key is on - Sounds like a simple, easy and very effective mod. I know it will lessen the service life of the pump but it's worth the performance gains....Now I just need to decide if I should keep the stock pump installed until it fails or install the Johnson pump on my bench?

 

I just left the OEM on. If I recall right the OEM pump puts out around 4 gpm and the Johnson is somewhere around 7 gpm. Sometimes more is'nt better, but I really don't know in this case. I was having trouble with my old Stang overheating at highway speeds after putting 3:55's in the rear, at 60 mph it was taching around 2,900. I first thought it was sucking the radiator hose shut, so reinforced hose's well that wasn't it. I replaced the thermostat with a new Auto-Lite, flushed the system and a new radiator cap. I had thought all along it was just pumping the coolant through the radiator to fast for it to cool, I had guy's tell me no way & other's say that's what it was. I put 3:25's in it last fall, now I'm taching 2,600 at 60 mph and she stay's around 180* now. In this case the coolant I believe was being pumped too fast, I wanted to change out the water pump pulley with a bigger one, but it was already close to the crank pulley.

 

yeah I think a faster pump is designed for a horizontaly finned radiator