http://www.autosafety.org/uploads/ph...TCPetition.pdf

 

Interesting read, but pretty full of opinions and out of date now.
I did not like the bit about putting a Katrina victim in, that has nothing to do with vehicle security, and made no sense. She must have be the only person to 1, actually remember where the valet key was, and 2, not have the others around. If that part is wholly true, then insurance would cover the loss. I wish most were like "normal" Chrysler where if you already own 2, you can add your own. That process prevents valets from doing it when they have hold of your 1 key. BUT if you lose 1, then try to replace it, you must go to a dealer.
When I got my Cadillac SRX, it only had 1 key, but I made 2 keys a stipulation of the deal. They ordered a 2nd, and when it arrived, I was able to sync it with the car using the 1 good key. I was surprised that 2 weren't needed, but then again, possibly it was programmed to my vin ahead of time like NeedsWings does.

 

Hi Everyone,
An update on my key fob. I ordered a new one from NeedsWing on August 21,2015. I emailed them a week later asking when I will receive my new key. Monday I received an email from NeedsWing saying they are going to contact Chrysler because they are waiting on eight keys from them. Usually they get keys 2-3 days after ordering them. I haven't heard back from them yet. Will be two weeks on Friday.

So hard taking my car anywhere right now. I have to put key in door and lock drivers side. Walk around to passenger side, open door, push button down and close the door. Two doors locked! Go in store and hope I still have my XF because the hatch does not lock.

Hope to hear from NeedsWing soon. They said it could take up to 48 hours to hear back from Chrysler and with a three day weekend coming up I hope to have my new WORKING key by Halloween. :rolleyes

Thanks for all your help and support.
Sandy

 

Interesting but only leads to more questions to the SKREEM system.

1) How does the SKREEM know which 8 keys? (I suspect it dealer records only)
2) How does the SKREEM know if there have been only 3 keys? (I suspect it dealer records only)
3) If you replace the SKREEM who inputs all previous keys?
a. How do they know there have been previous keys?
4) There must be some unique ID to each key for the SKREEM to know how many keys have been there before, how does it know?
5) Since there is some form of unique ID per key how do aftermarket and OEM suppliers know which key is being replaced?

 

I would suspect that the SKREEM detects each individual key by its own unique identity and records it, max eight.
I would also guess that the SKREEM can have all the numbers erased and start all over. But that would mean the stealers could not make more money.
You can buy SKREEMs from certain companies that re code old units if yours is shot. You supply only the VIN, all else is on record.

 

The PTCM also retains the "secret code" that the skreem module contains. This is where a "failure" to retrieve the secrete code and new keys are required come in. I'm just going to guess the skreem generates this? And I envision the limit to keys much like the TPMS has four data fields for the id's.. 8 data fields for keys.. that's just my thoughts..

 

ughhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....
hi everyone...after a long wait for my key from Needs Wing it finally arrived today. A note in with the key saying it is not programmed and telling me how to do it. Same as stated on this website. I did as stated my car started up. Sadly that is all it does. Will not lock or unlock any of the doors. Any thoughts??
So disappointing.
Thanks,
Sandy

 

You now have two fob's that start your car?

Programming the fob's to lock and starting are separate functions.

 

I didn't re read everything.. but did we check fuses anywhere along the way? Isn't that fuse 9 by the brake booster that disables the alarm.. and if I recall when pulled.. also disables the locking feature?

 

Yes I now have two key fobs that start the car (only) I didn't know starting the car and lock/unlock is a separate function. Can I program for the lock/unlock function?? Can anyone tell me how?? (I've done in the ignition, press two times lock or unlock....that does not work for me.)

No I never checked any fuses. I wrote down fuse #9 by the brake booster and will have that replace hopefully by Thursday. Not sure what East Coast vs West Coast has but do I get the fuse at an auto type store where they sell oil, wipers etc?? (Auto Zone, O'Reilly Auto Parts)

Not sure if my husband will know...where is the brake booster (fuse #9) located??

Thanks again for all your help!
Sandy

 

When you did the button press operation with the key in the ignition that was the door lock/unlock function; the start function is already done of course. Do you here anything when you press the buttons?
At one time you said that your spouses key would only lock or unlock, is that still true? At the same time the key that went to the repair shop did not work at all, is this true?
I believe dealers can make keys unworkable just by changing the programming somehow. This is a security step so that a lost key cannot be used by the finder. The dealer cannot program the key other than that, again a security step.
As this problem is now spread through some 60 posts I wonder if you could restate the problem and what key works or does not work. It is getting a bit confusing as is and any one who starts reading the thread will not be up to speed.

 

Good morning.....
My car would not start. We did the 'mystery no start' of soldering. Everything looked good but did it anyway. Car still would not start. Had it towed to a private auto shop that specializes in European cars. Mercedes guy put a diagnostic test on my car. I don't know code number but he said I needed a MODULE DO (08035031 which came from Chrysler) and a TRANSPONDER (168-462-02-53) which came from Mercedes-Benz.
Car started right up. I have two sets of keys. Key 1 I always use will not start the car, open or lock doors. The second set of keys will start the car and unlock the doors. It will not lock the doors. Shop tried to recode key 1... Nothing. Key 2 recoded to start car and unlock doors. Lights flash, no sound.

XF went to Chrysler...they said I needed a new battery. Got one. They could not program key 1 or key 2. Wanted to order two new keys for $600. I said no because there was no guarantee this would solve the problem.

Present day...key 1 is still completely useless. Key 2 (spouse key) will start car and unlock doors only. Lights flash, no sound.
THIRD KEY...arrived from Needs Wing Tuesday. Will start car will NOT lock or unlock doors. I did the ignition push two times procedure. When I push to lock, car lights will flash but doors will NOT lock. No sound.

I have not done fuse #9 near brake booster replacement (yet) as suggested yesterday.
Thank you,
Sandy

 

Thanks for the clarification! Key 1 remains a total mystery..

With the lights flashing and unlocking of doors.. the fuse is fine.

I'm thinking "maybe" moisture in the security module in the trunk with a corroded connection? Specifically the locking signal to the pump? Jury?

 

I'm thinking get all of the keys together to do the lock unlock programming procedure on all of them all at the same time. We have seen from some of the discussion above that if a FOB gets out of sequence with the receiver it will need to be re-synced to the car.

 

I forget if mentioned. with car running, and doors closed, does the dash lock switch lock and unlock everything?

 

Since they unlock the car.. based on your theory.. they can half assed sync. ... I don't concur with this.

 

I reprogrammed keys 2 and 3 right now. Stayed the same. Neither key lock car. Key 2 (spouse key) will UNlock the doors. New key 3 will NOT unlock or lock doors.

When car is running, doors closed, the dash WILL lock doors.

While I was reprogramming the keys right now..when I put the key in the ignition and pushed the button two times I could hear a whine noise (I guess that was the programming) Did the same sound for both keys.
Thanks again,
Sandy

 

any thoughts on this comment...

"MrMiata:I'm thinking "maybe" moisture in the security module in the trunk with a corroded connection? Specifically the locking signal to the pump? Jury?"

Would that be in the back panel (back of break lights) or in the trunk well where the can of spare tire is??
Thanks.
Sandy

 

In the trunk well.. jack and compressor on drivers side.. that Styrofoam "case" on the other side is where this assembly is under.

But with the dash working the locks.. raises the question of is there 2 "lock" signals to the module.. one circuit on the dash.. and another via remote activation.

 

Where did you hear the noise from? That may be the locks trying to operate, and a leak in the lines. There is one line for drivers door, 1 line for liftgate, and 1 for passenger door and fuel door combined.