Those instructions were sent with the new FOB, correct? Are they the same as my other post?

Did you see the repair shops trying this procedure?

 

I am beginning to think asking the shop that replaced the SKREEM module to hook up the DX tool and see if there are any SKREEM codes or key codes or BUS communication codes. I would tell them it has not worked correct since their repair and ask for warranty on their work.

 

What if the central locking is stuck in the sensed a crash mode and allowing only an unlock?

It doesn't explain any of the rest of it but what if?

By alarm module do you mean siren module or the central locking/security system module?

The FOB lock/unlock receiver is in the SKREEM.

 

"180.....I guess it is possible that the valve that shuttles back and forth for lock/unlocking or whatever, is only moving one way. To check this the module needs to be exposed and investigated."......The MODULE that needs to be exposed....is that in the trunk??

KDW4Him...Key Fobs were programmed exactly as you stated. What you stated is word for word what NeedsWings sent me with my new key.

I wish I could see the "tree' more than anyone. I read the posts daily and cut and paste all the suggested things to do. My spouse will look this weekend. I've often wondered if the two parts I got were not programmed correctly. The mechanic is back from his month long vacation. He does not want to work on my car but I want him to: "I am beginning to think asking the shop that replaced the SKREEM module to hook up the DX tool and see if there are any SKREEM codes or key codes or BUS communication codes." as suggested by KDW4Him.

"Is it possible the SKREEM was left in some sort of programming mode or not fully initialized by the DrBIII" What is the DrBIII??

I am referred to as the O.P. what does that mean??

I DO want my Fobs working. I try to understand what you guys are saying. When you talk back and forth to each other I get lost but still cut and paste. I'm taking my 'cut and pastes' to the mechanic. He should know what it all means.

When I had my two original working keys...they never chirped.

thanks for the 'wise words of wisdom'
Sandy

 

Yes.. module is in the trunk - Passenger side under the foam "holder"

DRBIII is the computer system used on the car for diagnostics and programming interface.

Chirp - you had mentioned it in a couple post - leaving me the impression it had at one point. These have back up batteries which are starting to leak and corrode the electronics board.. and grasping at a straw since this issue is so left field


And for those giving input.. Remember my statement of how a key can be permanently deleted via DRBII? "ooopps.. my bad.. shouldn't have done that" by the "mechanic"? It would never be admitted.. but that, or key was opened and the chip was lost is the only way I can see how "key #1" no longer works at all.

 

Original Poster, person that started the thread. (I use it a lot, sorry if I confuse anyone)

 

Good theory and could be ammo to request the shop pay for the new kew from Needswings.

 

question....in order to get to the Styrofoam 'case' on the passenger side trunk...does the whole back panel need to be taken off?? so far the side panel is off (fender) and now he is working on the back panel and is having a hard time getting that off.

 

once the module is 'exposed' how do I 'investigate' it?? (in the trunk well behind passenger)
thanks!
Sandy

 

Having a hard time....spouse says all panels need to come off in order to get styrofoam up. Needs to pull off both side panels to get back panel off. he thinks he needs to move/take out the trunk latch to get back panel off. Is this correct??

He has basic tools. If and when this gets opened, is there only one module there??
Thanks,
Sandy

 

You should download the service manual, search the forum, look in the stickies.

 

Yes you will need to remove those panels.. "some" have split the foam instead.. here are some useful links..

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post471489

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...dule-case.html

And since this has turned into a chase the rabbit for a cure.. check post 16 in this thread..

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...help-asap.html

 

Pioneer....are the 3 blue service manuals the same as downloading onto the computer?? Cost ,ore but would have everything right there.

Mr Miata...interesting links. Pictures are very helpful. Guy telling the story..funfor2(?) said the dealership took off his panels....Will pause on that because rereading post 16...taking it back to mechanic and having the SKREEM programming rechecked seems the easiest by far.

Mechanic fixed my no start but messed up my Fobs and locks.
I hope I don't have leaking issues. What 'funfor2' did was amazing. I wish he lived in CA.
Thanks again,
Sandy

 

I don't know for sure, but I guess so. I actually prefer the PDF file now because of the search capabilities. But the actual books are still easier to flip through.

 

Looking back on this I am left wondering what would have happened if the #1 key had been used to start the car at the repair shop. Seemingly it would not have started, so why did they say to pick up the car?
Did they know it would not start? Had they given up working on it and wished it all would end?
What kind of shop was it, what was fixed to get the car started, I take it that the SKREEM was the problem.
Most repair shops cannot play with this module, those that can can only remove specific keys from starting the car, they cannot add one. This would be a security precaution.

 

Hi Everyone, I'm back. It's been five MONTHS, four Chrysler Dealers later and I have a FIXED key fob to lock and unlock all my doors and my alarm works!!
onehundred80 was right all along it was the thing in the trunk. I will write more on what they did later this evening but I have a new question for right now.
While my car was in the shop I had them do an oil change and check all fluids. March 8th I will have the car one year and I'm planning on going on a road trip.
Driving home today (30 mins in) I heard a beep. Just one beep. I immediately looked at the dash and where the 'trip' mileage is it was flashing. I tired looking this up in my book and it's not there. My mileage went away as did the 'trip' mileage and in the 'trip' mileage was an oil can with the letters HI. I kept driving and after five flashes it stopped. I continued another 30 or so miles and parked and went into Costco. I came out started up the car and within 10 minutes it did it again. One beep except this time it did not flash it stayed solid in the 'trip' mileage area. I pulled over and called the Chrysler dealer 55 miles away. He THINKS something needs resetting and wants me to bring it in tomorrow. I asked him if it's safe to drive and he said yes. I know he really has no clue. This deale ship has 2.5 mechanics that know how to work on Crossfires. I'm so thankful to have found them. BUT...what do you guys think...is it safe to drive 55 miles tomorrow morning?? Thanks everyone, you guys are the BEST!
Sandy

 

They put too much oil in or the oil level sensor is going wrong, I'll say there is too much oil in it. Use the dip stick to check the level, if it is too high you can damage the engine, as it will foam up.

 

Manually check the oil level with the dip stick.
Sounds like they over-filled it to me.
If so, suck some out with a oil extractor until it is below the high mark on the stick.

 

DANG!
Beat me again by 2 minutes.

 

Checked the oil. It's all the way at the end of the red. According to book it should be in between. I think you guys are correct...to much oil.
You suggest an oil extractor....what is that?? Would I be better off taking it to a local mechanic and ask him to drain out some oil?? How much should be drained out?
Thank you.