I have a leak in my newest roadster's line.. passenger door does not lock OR unlock.. so I'm guessing that would have to be a "one way" leak..

 

Not knowing anything about cars...it sounded like it was coming from behind the dash. (behind the radio area) I found myself turning right (of the ignition) to listen to the whine sound. Would a mechanic shop check these lines for leaks?

MrMiata....I did a copy and paste of what you said about tire well area. Should I have spouse check that out when this evening??

thanks,
Sandy

 

Not quite correct, one for drivers door, one for hatch and passenger door and one for the gas filler cap.

 

Right, the fuel door is separate, and only locks with the keyfob when parked.
ALso, I don't think ANY of it is in the dash, so that probably isn't what the O.P. heard.
If a Roadster, is the console lid also pneumatic?

 

Yes it is.

and let me add this pioneer4x4 :
For a newbie that only joined a couple of months ago, you seem to be eager to acquire knowledge,
and also give good advise to others on what you have learned.
Keep it up !

BUT! I don't see your name in the Fall Dragon attendance list ! Fix that !

 

I was hoping someone else might have some valid input here on the trunk module. As far as a leak in the lines.. trust me you will hear it.. and there are none under the dash.

The majority of locking - unlocking issues arise from this module.. the FACT it will unlock doors means those keys are synced to the car. The actual dash button working does throw a kink in the works though.

 

Thanks, too much going on in Oct, maybe Spring. I am probably going to Niagara falls that weekend, but not via Crossfire, need room for 3.

 

I guess it is possible that the valve that shuttles back and forth for lock/unlocking or whatever, is only moving one way. To check this the module needs to be exposed and investigated.

 

Good idea.. till you throw in "works fine from the dash".. This is where the plot thickens.. LOL

 

Good idea still, there are probably different wires from the switch to the module for dash operation and other wires for fob operation.

It is possible that some pins in the connector are damaged due to water or whatever.

Get one fob working fully and then move on to the solution for the other fobs.

 

I made that comment earlier.. where were you? I was looking for more confirmation on the "dash - fob" different inputs to module theory.. LOL

 

With four plugs and umpteen wires I would imagine that there would be more than one wire with a lock signal in it.
I have basically run out of ideas and as the OP cannot spend too much time on it and maybe not have the tools or inclination to do the job anyway I see this thread going on till Xmas.
Looking at the module is a must I think to prove or disprove the fault lays there. I leave the problem to you.

 

Well at least we concur - time to look into the security locking module - pump in the trunk..

 

STANDARD PROCEDURE - TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMING
The Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter(s) can be programmed by the customer without special tools.
PROGRAMMING PROCEDURE
Transmitter programming by the customer is done by performing the following steps: 1. Insert the key into the ignition switch.
2. Press either the lock or unlock button momentarily twice.
3. Turn the key in the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position within 30 seconds.

 

Do you just read one post and jump to the bottom to reply?

Once more.. the fobs unlock the doors.. Just a fluke or would you say they are communicating ? Or did my half assed synced comment send you on a goose chase?

 

Only one fob unlocks (#2), the others ..........not.

 

We might be looking so hard through the trees to see the forest .. we're missing the tree in front of us.. UMM.. Did it used to make a chirp ?

IF the alarm module is pulled from the car.. does the fob lock interface still work?

 

Yes I do stupid things like this all the time Greg!

She said of three fobs one unlocks the doors. she didn't say locks she said just unlocks. i'm not 100% certain the programming of the fobs procedure is being done correctly. I posted this to see if these instructions matched what came with the key from Needswings.

Is it possible the SKREEM was left in some sort of programming mode or not fully initialized by the DrBIII?

 

On the fobs that don't work right, new batteries? press both buttons and look for the flash of red LED.

 

The SKREEM, BCM, and locking module all talk via the bus lines. This one is strange.

Can we deduce the SKREEM is fine and the locking module is fine since one remote unlocks the car meaning the bus communication lines are fine thus pointing to the FOBs themselves? Donna.

Can we suspect the new SKREEM because it cannot communicate with all the FOBs? Donno.

Can we deduce it's the locking module yet one remote and the dash switch work fine? Donno.

We know the RFID system is fine for two keys to start the car, why not the third? ODD, very odd.

Why can't a brand new key be synced but one of the original keys could? ODD.

That tree is right there but I cannot see it.

Seems like the system cannot be put in learn mode to sync keys into it.