I need help big time with the car, please read on.
Originally Posted by VALKRYDERGUY
About $220 as I recall.
He think he lives pretty close by the shop anyway and the shop is the best place to service you car.
As Doc said ...
Have him diagnose it for sure in order to spend the cash where it needs to be spent.
Rudy is the expert locally to service our cars I assure you !!!
He is the ONLY one that will ever work on mine..unless I'm far away from home.
Bosch / Mahle Updated Fuel Filter - Regulator
Walbro 255lph In-Line Fuel Pump
He think he lives pretty close by the shop anyway and the shop is the best place to service you car.
As Doc said ...
Have him diagnose it for sure in order to spend the cash where it needs to be spent.
Rudy is the expert locally to service our cars I assure you !!!
He is the ONLY one that will ever work on mine..unless I'm far away from home.
Bosch / Mahle Updated Fuel Filter - Regulator
Walbro 255lph In-Line Fuel Pump
Originally Posted by Mrmiata
Just looking at his funds.. narrow budget..even if he drove down there and back (fuel cost) and they diagnose (??more dollars)..then replacement parts and labor charge..sound like a hundred or less to you?
Some slogans that come to mind.....
~~~There are some things money can't buy. For everything else there's Mastercard
~~~Could be cheap. Could be expensive. Visa. All you need.
~~~It pays to Discover
If you haven't downloaded the service manual from here, you might want to (do a search if no one pops in with the direct link). Don't have a clue to your mechanical abilities, but this will at least let you see how "non-complex" the setup is.. I'd much rather put a new pump and filter on this car than replace the pump on my 94 silverado again!
And since we are getting a whole bunch of "best approach" opinions.. I'm just going to go sit on the sidelines at this point.
Best of luck with it my friend..
And since we are getting a whole bunch of "best approach" opinions.. I'm just going to go sit on the sidelines at this point.
Best of luck with it my friend..
So I went through the manual to see what's what with the pump, and while it doesnt seem that hard, I wouldn't know how to do it myself sadly :\
Regardless, I believe someone said they have a spare filter that they offered to send over? I would gladly take you up on that offer and then have Rudy put it in at his shop. I do get payed in about 2 weeks, so that would definitely help things out with the payments for Rudy.
EDIT: I also really appreciate the time and effort you guys are putting into this to help me out with possible solutions. I've never been part of a better community than this one, that's for damn sure. Cheers to you guys!
Regardless, I believe someone said they have a spare filter that they offered to send over? I would gladly take you up on that offer and then have Rudy put it in at his shop. I do get payed in about 2 weeks, so that would definitely help things out with the payments for Rudy.
EDIT: I also really appreciate the time and effort you guys are putting into this to help me out with possible solutions. I've never been part of a better community than this one, that's for damn sure. Cheers to you guys!
Rudy where are you?? chime in soon ok. this guy needs help. jim
yep there is a check valve in the pump when it fails the pump is on it;s way out fuel drains back car is hard to start,,, sometimes it cranking times out and it does not start,
spoke to the guys and Rudy has gone fishing,,, this is no ploy he really has , should be back tomorrow so we should see him post soon..
yep there is a check valve in the pump when it fails the pump is on it;s way out fuel drains back car is hard to start,,, sometimes it cranking times out and it does not start,
spoke to the guys and Rudy has gone fishing,,, this is no ploy he really has , should be back tomorrow so we should see him post soon..
Last edited by amx1397; Dec 30, 2011 at 07:49 PM.
Originally Posted by amx1397
Rudy where are you?? chime in soon ok. this guy needs help. jim
yep there is a check valve in the pump when it fails the pump is on it;s way out fuel drains back car is hard to start,,, sometimes it cranking times out and it does not start,
spoke to the guys and Rudy has gone fishing,,, this is no ploy he really has , should be back tomorrow so we should see him post soon..
yep there is a check valve in the pump when it fails the pump is on it;s way out fuel drains back car is hard to start,,, sometimes it cranking times out and it does not start,
spoke to the guys and Rudy has gone fishing,,, this is no ploy he really has , should be back tomorrow so we should see him post soon..
I've got 200 to play with in cash now, could rudy do it for that much? The person he replaced both for was for 220 right? Is that for both the parts and install?
Here's something you can try to test the fuel pump and/or fuel filter theory.
You will need to remove the plastic engine cover to see it but at the front of the engine on the right side at the top is a Schraeder valve (looks like a large tire valve) for the fuel rail. Turn the key to the RUN position and then press the valve insert as if you were releasing air from a tire, if only air or sputtering fuel comes out instead of a high pressure shot of fuel your pump is probably NFG. Change the pump. Obviously this isn't as good a test as if you had put a gauge on it but it's a good indication.
To check the fuel filter and/or check valve(s) for bleeding back the test is similiar and is only valid if it passed the first test. This time turn the key on for a couple seconds then off and wait 5-10 minutes. Leaving the key off check for fuel at the Schraeder valve if there is none or it only dribbles out the fuel filter/check valve is bleeding back. Change the filter.
These tests are valid for any fuel injected vehicle only the location of the Schraeder valve would change.
Also the fuel filter and fuel pump on these cars is very accessable so don't be scared to replace them yourself only basic tools and common sense needed. As a rule of thumb whenever you change a fuel pump the fuel filter would also be changed.
You will need to remove the plastic engine cover to see it but at the front of the engine on the right side at the top is a Schraeder valve (looks like a large tire valve) for the fuel rail. Turn the key to the RUN position and then press the valve insert as if you were releasing air from a tire, if only air or sputtering fuel comes out instead of a high pressure shot of fuel your pump is probably NFG. Change the pump. Obviously this isn't as good a test as if you had put a gauge on it but it's a good indication.
To check the fuel filter and/or check valve(s) for bleeding back the test is similiar and is only valid if it passed the first test. This time turn the key on for a couple seconds then off and wait 5-10 minutes. Leaving the key off check for fuel at the Schraeder valve if there is none or it only dribbles out the fuel filter/check valve is bleeding back. Change the filter.
These tests are valid for any fuel injected vehicle only the location of the Schraeder valve would change.
Also the fuel filter and fuel pump on these cars is very accessable so don't be scared to replace them yourself only basic tools and common sense needed. As a rule of thumb whenever you change a fuel pump the fuel filter would also be changed.
Last edited by crossingmatt; Dec 31, 2011 at 03:21 PM.
Originally Posted by crossingmatt
Here's something you can try to test the fuel pump and/or fuel filter theory.
You will need to remove the plastic engine cover to see it but at the front of the engine on the right side at the top is a Schraeder valve (looks like a large tire valve) for the fuel rail. Turn the key to the RUN position and then press the valve insert as if you were releasing air from a tire, if only air or sputtering fuel comes out instead of a high pressure shot of fuel your pump is probably NFG. Change the pump. Obviously this isn't as good a test as if you had put a gauge on it but it's a good indication.
To check the fuel filter and/or check valve(s) for bleeding back the test is similiar and is only valid if it passed the first test. This time turn the key on for a couple seconds then off and wait 5-10 minutes. Leaving the key off check for fuel at the Schraeder valve if there is none or it only dribbles out the fuel filter/check valve is bleeding back. Change the filter.
These tests are valid for any fuel injected vehicle only the location of the Schraeder valve would change.
Also the fuel filter and fuel pump on these cars is very accessable so don't be scared to replace them yourself only basic tools and common sense needed. As a rule of thumb whenever you change a fuel pump the fuel filter would also be changed.
You will need to remove the plastic engine cover to see it but at the front of the engine on the right side at the top is a Schraeder valve (looks like a large tire valve) for the fuel rail. Turn the key to the RUN position and then press the valve insert as if you were releasing air from a tire, if only air or sputtering fuel comes out instead of a high pressure shot of fuel your pump is probably NFG. Change the pump. Obviously this isn't as good a test as if you had put a gauge on it but it's a good indication.
To check the fuel filter and/or check valve(s) for bleeding back the test is similiar and is only valid if it passed the first test. This time turn the key on for a couple seconds then off and wait 5-10 minutes. Leaving the key off check for fuel at the Schraeder valve if there is none or it only dribbles out the fuel filter/check valve is bleeding back. Change the filter.
These tests are valid for any fuel injected vehicle only the location of the Schraeder valve would change.
Also the fuel filter and fuel pump on these cars is very accessable so don't be scared to replace them yourself only basic tools and common sense needed. As a rule of thumb whenever you change a fuel pump the fuel filter would also be changed.
Why would you just throw parts/$$$ at the problem with out testing/confirming the problem first ? Sure you'll have a shiny new pump and filter but it might not solve your problem.
Originally Posted by Mrmiata
Send him $500 and I'm sure he'll be more than happy to take it in for "proper diagnostics" since the opinions and symptons aren't enough to convice you where the problem lies.. or are you not that concerned since it would now involve "your" dollars? Real easy to arm chair quarterback when it's not reaching your check book. What part of "limited budget" is half of everyone missing here? When the fuel pump quit on my Chevy I didn't have to have it towed in to the dealer to tell me "your fuel pumps out". Have you taken your car in for diagnostic to know the heating element is out instead of the switch or are you planning on throwing dollars at the element and hoping?
Originally Posted by 32krazy!
250$ for the fuel pump and 50$ for the filter. save a few more bucks and do it yourself. 30 minutes to swap both
OEM Mercedes Fuel Pump 7.21960.04.0 721960040 Inline | eBay
Originally Posted by Mrmiata
Think I'd have to try 2 of these first..
OEM Mercedes Fuel Pump 7.21960.04.0 721960040 Inline | eBay
OEM Mercedes Fuel Pump 7.21960.04.0 721960040 Inline | eBay
And just for my future reference, since Mann has the fleece oil filter, would their fuel filters be "oem" standards?
Mann-Filter MF1095 Fuel Filter | eBay
Mann-Filter MF1095 Fuel Filter | eBay
Originally Posted by 32krazy!
been my experience to stick with the oem brands. may cost more but better in the long run
Originally Posted by Mrmiata
And just for my future reference, since Mann has the fleece oil filter, would their fuel filters be "oem" standards?
Mann-Filter MF1095 Fuel Filter | eBay
Mann-Filter MF1095 Fuel Filter | eBay
It's a shame you don't live close to Tulsa, or we would be putting in a pump and filter tomorrow. I'd do it just for the experience since it's not like your pulling a motor or tranny..
Originally Posted by Mrmiata
And just for my future reference, since Mann has the fleece oil filter, would their fuel filters be "oem" standards?
Mann-Filter MF1095 Fuel Filter | eBay
Mann-Filter MF1095 Fuel Filter | eBay
manufacturer number KL 82, made Feb 25, 2005
see : http://www.bimmerspecialist.com/part...2030%2001/7765
Last edited by ala_xfire; Dec 31, 2011 at 06:46 PM.


