Whenever I take the car out, the first time it gets to temperature and I'm at a stop, the fan kicks on and dims all the lights, drops the idle by 200-300 a few times, then everything goes back to normal. This only happens once every trip.

Now I noticed with the AC on at a stop the idle is wobbles 200-300 constantly.

When I turn the cabin fan on in the car it is super weak, about 1/2 of what it used to be. Randomly though it will kick on full power for a few seconds then drop down again. When my car does that first issue I mentioned, if the fan is on it kicks the fan into overdrive while the revs are moving.

I thought maybe the battery was going so I just installed a red top, but the issues are the same.

Vacuum leak? Alternator? ??


Another issue, which I'm not sure is related, or even an issue, is that when I barely push on the throttle (while in drive) the car will make a squeal that sounds exactly like squeaky brakes. I've heard it ever since I put on my CAI, and I just figured it was the TB being at the right spot to make a whistle like noise, but I have noticed it is getting louder. It happens in any gear, always at the same throttle %. It is only when the supercharger is engaged. Not sure this is even an issue, but the other issues made me start thinking it could be a leak.

Any ideas are great!

EDIT: forgot to mention that besides these minor things above, the car performs great!

 

Not sure if it makes you feel any better, but I've noticed similar issues in mine. The idle fluctuation with a/c on is seemingly worse with "low restriction" intakes. Grip-Grip had this problem with his NW intake, I did as well. He installed SL55 airboxes and it fixed it. I ran the stock boxes for a week and the idle issue was fixed on mine as well. Put a C3 style intake on the back of mine, and the idle fluctuates again (100-200 RPM). But, the sound is sure worth it.

As for the squeal, I can hear it VERY clearly with the C3 installed. My only thought is it has something to do with the threshold of engagement (supercharger). If I eeeeaaaase into the throttle while in overdrive, I hear it. If I blip the throttle (from cruising to over 25% throttle) the squeal is nonexistent and the supercharger whine is clear and pronounced.

Again, stock intake cured both of my issues. C3 intake made both issues worse. NW intake allowed me to experience both issues as well.

A very un-scientific answer, but an answer nonetheless.

 

Unfortunately I did the ASP178 install and NW intake install the same day, so I don't know if the squeal was there before, but I agree that if you blip the throttle it's not there.

 

I have taken the intake off and watched the throttle body as I blipped the pedal. It does indeed produce a whistling sound at small openings. I never heard it until I switched intakes.

The lights dimming is the air pump test.

 

Well that solves most of it except my cabin fan totally sucking.

 

And here I thought the fan was supposed to blow!

 

Can you expand on this...just out of curiosity.

 

What I think he is talking about, is the air pump that runs at first to inject extra air in the exhaust to help heat up the Cats so they do their job well almost right from the start - saving the planet and all of that.

Not really a test, but a routine the car goes thru when it's first started and the computer sees that the Cats are "cold".

 

Yes, right, it also tests the pump periodically to make sure it's working. It quickly cycles the pump, usually right after your car is fully warmed up, and watches the O2 sensors to see a rise in AFRs. If you start moving during the test it stops and waits for the next idle time, like a stop light. The extra drag on the electrical system will cause a slight dimming also. The pump pulls some amps as shown with the RCM relay contacts wearing down.

 

I would pull the RCM and check the contacts....

 

That controls the cabin fan? Interesting.

I was thinking I would just buy another RCM to have on hand anyways, maybe this is a good time.

 

No, it does not control the cabin fan.
One of the solenoids in the RCM controls the air pump and the contacts get burnt on some of them. I have studied three RCM's and none where burnt, but there was a little silver dust under the air pump solenoid in one that I did notice. One of these solenoids is my spare that I got for $45, they cost $300+ at the stealership.

 

I wonder if something is caught between my cabin filter and fan, guess I'll have to tear all that out this weekend and take a peek.

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...where-get.html

check this

 

The contact on mine was really bad. If your not getting a P0410 code then your pump and RCM are good.

 

Another thing I realized today, the AC on only causes the RPMS to surge when the car is fully warmed. It must be something related to the air pump surging (which is never used to do). Is it difficult/possible to do a pressure test on that system?