Still having problems with this. I was out of town last week so I had left the car parked at the airport for about 5 days.

Jerry at Eurocharged says that a re-tune wouldn't have any effect on the problem I'm having.

So, it's been about 2 weeks now and it's not running any better.

 

Pal, I'm sorry but I have no other ideas...

 

Have you damaged the pins in the socket to the throttle body?

 

This issue has been driving me nuts, so I just went out there and disconnected everything and took my time reconnecting it. I did double-check the pins on the throttle body and they're perfectly straight.

I found an old post where someone from Eurocharged mentioned how to do a throttlebody self-calibration (unplug TB, turn key to ON for 2 minutes, turn key OFF, plug in TB, turn key ON again for 2 minutes.) I could hear the TB humming and saw it pull itself back to the closed position and pop back into place.

I did see some oil on the backside on the throttle plate. I believe that's what the catch cans are for, but could that be any indication of a problem?

ALL of the rubber seals are intact (O-ring is seated properly; each of the rubber seals on the plastic sections are good. Hoses are all connected tight.)
The shop that I took it to did a smoke test and said there are no vacuum leaks.

Right now I'm running my old MAF (68mm, descreened) and I'd love to prove that the MAF sensor isn't the problem, so I can get my money back from the shop. Right now I'm not getting any CEL.

The main problem is that it seems to idle fine when I first start it, but as soon as I stop and a stoplight, the revs climb to 1500 then drop down to 1000 and repeats until I accelerate again. If it's not doing that, then it's just stuck at around 1200 RPM.

The REALLY annoying thing is that it always acts 100% fine (idling around 600) when I pull into my driveway and I'm about to give up on it.

 

There is a vacuum line from the engine to the throttle body elbow (driver side) is that snug?
Also there is a gasket in the top of the MAF elbow and that could get torn if the MAF housing is pulled of it to roughly, an air leak below the MAF would not be good. There are instructions here in one post that says to literally yank it off.
Sorry if I repeat steps you have done but I have run out of ideas.

 

Yup, I checked both of those really well when I reconnected everything
The hose on the driver side is snug and I know that rubber ring is good.

I really appreciate all the ideas, guys.
Thanks

 

After reading the entire thread twice, I have two inputs to hopefully steer you towards a conclusion. One is free, the other is expensive (hence try the free one first). There is a small hose "T" that plugs into the top of the frame of the TB where it mounts, is that seated properly and clean inside (no debris entered it when you swapped the TB out)? Second, could you have gotten a defective TB?. Its about all I can come up with, hope it helps.

 

I can only guess that a vacuum line is faulty or disconnected, how about the EGR valve vac lines.
Do you have the same code set?

 

what he said +1

 

I have no codes at the moment. When I took it to the shop 2 weeks ago they must have cleared it, but I have no CEL now.

I ordered one of those Bluetooth OBDII dongles, so I can use my android phone as a code reader. I wanted to use that to watch the TPS. I'm thinking that would tell me if the throttle is actually moving or if something else is causing the surging (like a leak). Is my logic on that correct?

 

When I had this problem I watched the TPS % with my ultra gauge, it was surging with the idle. I believe the computer was seeing something it did not like, and was compensating for it. Yours will most likely see the same thing. Every once in a while everything would run right and not surge at all, on those days I always got a CEL for running lean. I know how frustrating this problem is, I know I was ready to sell my car. Hopefully your car will fix it self soon like the rest of ours have.

 

I sure hope so. I can see the same frustration from every post I read with the same issue, so I'm feeling everyone's pain.


Just thinking out loud again...now that I think about it, I saw the BAS/ESP light come on twice in the midst of of me disconnecting the battery multiple times. I remembered reading how to reset it, so I didn't think anything of it.

Also, back in April when I had my Eurocharged tune done, I had to hook up a battery charger to complete the process.

So, I know my battery isn't at 100% condition. I can't imagine that would cause a problem, but who knows?

 

I know you say the seal in the MAF elbow is fine but the way the instructions say to remove the MAF from the elbow is not gentle. The clips at the top should be unlatched and not sprung open, not a problem here but that could break them. Rotating the MAF rearward as described is possibly a problem as the edge of the MAF is pushed into the seal and could cut it. I pointed this out when the PDF was done but it was not followed up on. I managed to push the steel clip away from the MAF and pulled the MAF straight up out of the elbow.

Leakage of air after the MAF sensor will cause problems.

 

I know it's been a while, but I just wanted to post an update on my situation in case anyone else has the same problem:

My car magically got better over time, just like Max's did.
It drives fine - the only issue is that when I first start the car, it idles at about 1200 RPM until I get moving (I don't think it used to idle that high at first).
I also had Eurocharged retune my car and now I'm enjoying the improved response.

Again, thanks everyone for all the suggestions along the way.

 

Hahahahahahahaha. I knew it.

I'm glad you got it goin' again. Quite annoying, right?

 

If I were you, I would let it idle high, and wait for it to drop to the 700-800 range before actually taking off, it is part of the start up sequence on many cars...

 

Yeah, mine idles @ 1000-1200 for maybe 10 seconds and drops to 700?

Sounds normal to me...