So, I am now having the wonderful "mystery no start" with my car on a super hot day.

I did a little research on here and all roads lead to the Fuel Pump Relay.

So here is the project:

Now, from what I've read, the point of failure appears to be the solder points on the board due to prolonged exposure to heat. If this is the case, I have access to many people with over 30 years experience with industrial and enterprise electric applications and we'd like to see if we can re-solder the contacts with a higher tolerance material.

Unless the relay is solid state, myself and a few buddies would like to take a look at a bad one and see where the point of failure is and possibly fix it or even better; make a new one on the cheaper.

Soooo...

Here's what I need:
A broken relay module - I will pay for the shipping to me. If it works, I'll ship it back on my dime, you get a working/upgraded one. If it doesn't work (we can't fix it), I'll throw it away or ship it back to you. I only need one because my car is my main and I can't have it down.

Second thing I need: info - any confirmation that my understanding is correct, info on what the engine bay temp is under "normal" conditions, etc.

 

The actual main issue is poor quality solder job.. not a component level failure..

 

Ah, thank you for clearing that up, I didn't know if there were other failures as well (hence my wanting to tear on up that fully failed).

Guess it's a perfect time to try out different types of solder then

 

The K40 Relay Control Module has SPST relays, not solid state.
There are 5 of them on the board, soldered, not plugin.
The main problem with the relays themselves is the Air Pump relay ( #5 ). It feeds power from the 40 amp fuse to the air pump on the front of the engine at initial startup for approx 30 seconds. The contacts on this relay tend to burn much faster due to the higher amp load.
I ordered, and received 12 of these relays, but found it very hard to remove the old relays from the board, so after successfully replacing only the #5 relay on my spare board, I gave up.

The problem with the board itself is the 3 solder points originally addressed, I'm not sure if the issue exists due to mechanical vibration, or fluctuating temperatures.

See this thread for pictures of the relays, as well as the 3 solder points on the board :
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...u140-code.html

 

THANK YOU! You have shed a LOT of light on this. Reading through what you have shown, there seems to be quite a few opportunities here for improvement, most of which are outlined really well on here.

This thread may be entirely useless, but I will update as I modify (re-solder, shield, horny, anything else).

Thank again and cheers!

 

The three points that require to be re-soldered a lot of the time are the cause of the car not starting, as the starter does not work when the key is turned. The reason being that two of the three soldered connections go to the engine control relay, I'm not sure where the other one goes.

The problem with these three connections is cold solder joints, not heat or vibration. The soldering is done by wave soldering according to a post on another forum, why these three points have a solder problem is unknown, other joints have been found faulty though.

The air pump relay gets the contacts burned and this causes the pump to, rarely, run all of the time as the points get welded together or not at all. This is not connected to the three solder point problem but rather I think poor grounding or problems in the pump that causes the points to flutter open and shut when they should be shut firmly during pump operation.