Probably owned by the same company, right? Hell, probably on the same server!
This is the first i've been able to get in since my last post.

 

Same server was my thoughts.. LOL.. Of to see guilty or acquitted.. LOL it's back up

 

So I checked fuse 5 and 6 both have 12 v how ever my horn doesn't work Air bags deployed I have a used one am goin to replace dats gonna suck to do. anyway So my ECM is getting voltage but wen. I check at the two pump wires i get 1 to 3 volts wtf u may ask my voltmeter is I dnt get it there's a red and green wire Icleaned of some rust peeled off and the wire looked black not cooper is dat the color It sould be ? peeled about 2 inches off the wire only got 1to3 volts All lights work Everything work but no start all help gravely apreciated thank u all for ur time spent helping a nobbie out

 

Ok, so you have 12 volts on the fuses - so you are losing it between the fuse and pump. This tells us there is resistance between the fuse and the pump.
The most likely cause is bad solder on the RCM, a bad Fuel Pump Relay on the RCM or a corroded connector somewhere between the RCM and the pump itself.

The service manual shows no connectors between the RCM and the pump, I don't believe that!

If the wire itself is black, it's a sign of corrosion. The wire being black is NOT a problem itself, but if it is black, then likely where it crimps in a pin at a connector, there is a bad connection: The Black on the wire is corrosion. If you have corrosion on the wire at a crimp pin connector, you will have resistance!

I'd disconnect and pull out the RCM board. Look at the pins on the cables and the mating connections on the board - are they clean? Probalby not.

It sounds to me like the pump is probably ok - the pump is just not getting power! I am wondering if this car was allowed to get wet (flooded?) at some point.
The black conductor in the wiring is not at all normal and is a sign of corrosion.

I'd pull the RCM and look at the solder of the pins. If you can see the relays, (I think they are open-framed) see what the contacts look like. The mating surface of the contacts should be clean! If they are black, dirty, pitted, etc.... the relays should be replaced or at least cleaned.

There is another thread here where some guy found a source for new relays - new once can be soldered in rather easily.

You are getting close to the problem!

 

This might help you out a little.. Seems there was an issue with fuses having "pushed" the copper contact bar out of position also..

 

My plugs at the RCM were corroded but I clean the most I could .. It's sounds like is goin to be a ***** I bought the car with salvaged title crashed front end crash came from new jersey to fl the guy told me it was rusted because off all the snow up there . it ran good before I took the radiator off and let it sit for a year if I new how to post pics I could show how clean is looking with the civic lip someone posted here and the grill I put On ... Any one no out of the two wires in the pump wich of the two get voltage

 

Your Welcome! (front lip..lol) ..

With the key off you'll have no voltage... so find which one reads to ground? I'm going from the cars harness..

 

Mrmiata great find on the lip man who woulda thought the lip woulda fit perfect lol..

 

Service manual (not always sure I trust it for little details like wire colors) show the "hot" wire is RD/DG. I take that to mean Red/Dark Green.

You can download the service manual (use the SRT6 service manual, it applies to all cars) here on this site. Page 8W-10-22 shows the path for the fuel pump.

I'm gonna print out the picture MrMiata provided !

 

All manuals are here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html

 

So I was checking voltage at the plug on the RCM for the fuel pump all of them get voltage exept the red with green stripe and a brown wire wich are also the wires down at the pump... strange my fuses have voltage my RCM looks good I dnt get y does two wires are not getting anything .

 

Sounds like solder joints on the RCM or a bad relay to me !

 

Wait a minute.... it would re RARE, but perhaps the PTCM isn't turning the relay on?

Go download the manual and look at page 8W-10-22 and you will see what I'm getting at!

 

Looks like the PCM drives the FP relay coil on connector 4 pin 36 to RCM connector E pin 3 to me.
When energized the FP relay supplies 12v via the RCM fuse 5 to the pump.
What I don't get is that dotted line ground from G204 to connector B pin 5 on the RCM.
If that were truly connected, ain't no way fuse 5 would last more than 1 ms.

Any idea what that dotted line signifies ?

 

I THINK that it means there is a "web" in the insulation between the two wires.
There is a "legend" page somewhere in the manual that tells you what all the symbols, abbreviations, etc. mean.

 

I hate trying to figure out schematics! LOL.

And before 180 gets here and starts flaming.. I ran across that RCM picture a while back and saved it. Knew it would come in handy.

 

If my joints would be bad on my RCM then I wouldn't get voltage on fuse 5 correct? I get voltage on every fuse if I run a switch traight to pump will dat wrk? I just want to get this **** runnin have to take to DMV to have it inspected for a rebuilt title and dis sounds to complicated ... Will the swich wrk

 

Wrong. YOu REALLY need to look at the diagram!

The fuses are in the INPUT side of the circuit, after that, current passes thru the relays... if the relay pins are bad, it does not effect the reading on the fuses.


RUnning 12 volts directly to the pump will make the pump run, yes. The pump is switched on via the relay by the PTCM when you turn the key on.

 

If we knew where you are someone might make a house call. Jeez

 

So after searching and testing I still came with no conclusion stillno power to pump I have no clue were to go from there any help ..