I purchased a 04 crossfire With rebuilt title needed new radiador support radiador leaked but ran fine so i removed It plugged All hoses a year later when i got new radiador did oil change new coolant new fuel tried to start but only crancked no start tried couple times nothing charged battery nothing hooked up scanner no codes looked at my rcm All soldéring looks good plzz any help ...anyone

 

Are you saying the car sat for a YEAR? If so, what is the condition of the fuel? And bad fuel can screw up injectors!


Other than that, maybe the CPS, also, measure the fuel pressure in the rail.

 

Yes sat for year with a quarter tank wouldn't the CPS show on the scanner I may have screwed my injectors
Measure what again.?

 

it kinda starts wen i put stater fluid in throtle body but the dies

 

You aren't getting fuel. Maybe air in the fuel line. Take the line lose by the filter and the pump. Located by the passenger rear tire. Re-install line IF you have fuel coming out, and try again. It will take a few seconds for the fuel to get up there.

 

If I had no fuel pressure wouldn't it set a code on the scanner I have no codes I don't know what I got my self into with a rebuilt crossfire ..

 

NO...if you have no fuel, you don't start. When you stated you can get it fire by putting starter fluid in the throttle body, you answered your own question. NO FUEL. It has sat for a year. PUMP may not be priming, Air in the line, plugged line, no power to the pump, etc. The line might not even be on the car for I know. YOU have to get under there and start where the fuel starts. The filter and the pump. If you eliminate you have fuel flowing to the front of the car, then on to the next area to look in...

 

Finally looked under found rust everywere terminals on pump corroded tried to remove clamps in Aline but clamps are different do I need a tool or break them and use regular ones

 

The OEM clamps can be reused ( with care ), but most replace with fuel line screw clamps.
To release the clamps, there is a little hole in the center of the clamping area, you can get a tiny screwdriver or something pointy in there and pry the outer portion of the clamp up to release it. To put them back on, a pair of standard pliers will do the trick.

 

the two terminals on the fuel pump. is one of the two suppose to have 12 v wen key is on position because am not getting any voltage. how can i test the pump i am new to crossfires i want to make syre thats the problem before i buy a new one is buying a cheap pump worth it?

 

12 volt supply for the fuel pump comes from one of the often-badly-soldered relays on the Relay Control Board.
As you as you turn the key on, there BETTER be about 12 volts at the pump!

 

If you are near Durham NC drive it over here and I will help you.

 

Guess I could extend the same offer.. since it won't start..

 

U-Haul car haulers/dollies are cheap to rent!

 

Hey.. I was just going with the "drive it over" scenario.. I don't count U-haul as driving.. LOL.

 

Am al the way in fl well my fuse isn't blown but wen i turn the key in the on position the wires at the pump don't get any voltage isther any other fuses other than the ones under the hood. Am I checking it the wrong way?

 

I think it's the RCM. Pull the thing out and resolder it or take it to a radio shop and pay 'em $20 to reflow ALL the pins of ALL the relays.

You have GOT to see 12 volts at the pump or it wont' pump - PERIOD. I'm not home right now, but I think the only fuse for the pump is on the RCM.
I will check when I get home in a bit.

Does the engine turn over? Do all of your dash lights seem to glow? If you jsut turn the key on, does the heater fan, radio, lights, wipers, etc. all work?
If so, it really seems it's the relay contacts or pins on the RCM.

I'll be home in 1/2 hour...

 

Just a thought.. when you had the RCM out.. did you inspect the relays while you had it out.. make sure one or more wasn't stuck per say and contacts clean?

Edit: Talking while typing and coming home in second.. hate that.. LOL

 

Well, three of my four forums have been unreachable for 1/2 hour, but Facebook was ok. SOMEONE broke the %*^**$ internet!
Whoever is messing with the internet, knock it off!


Anyway, the power for the fuel pump comes from the RCM. A lead from the splice block feeds power to the horn relay and fuel pump relay.
On the RCM, fuse 6 is the horn and fuse 5 is the pump.

Here is what you should do:

Turn the key on.
Press the horn button.
If the horn honks, there is power to the RCM - so I want you to measure the voltage at Fuse 6. This will confirm your meter is good and you are doing it right.

(Blade fuses have contacts on them that you can prove with the meter leads without pulling the fuse.) If you don't see power at fuse 6 even when the horn works then you aren't using the meter right or the meter is bad. If you see 12 volts, keep going. The 12 volts will be there anytime the key is on, no neeed to blow the horn while trying to measure the voltage.

Now, measure the voltage at Fuse 5. There has to be voltage there, too. Go to pump - got voltage? No?
You now KNOW that the RCM has power to it. If you measured BOTH sides of fuse 5, then the only things left are:

The relay is bad.
The relay has at least one pin whose solder has failed.
The wire from RCM to pump is bad, and this is PROBABLY a crimp terminal at the RCM or at some interconnection somewhere.
The ground you are hoooking your meter to near the fuel pump is not a ground at all, and you are lying to yourself!

Let me know how you do and remember that fuses 5 and 6 and the horn and fuel pump ONLY have power when the key is on!

 

^^^ Vette forum is down too.. been interesting following and comments on the Zimmerman trial..