Turn signals, gauge/instrument lights not working
Hey guys,
I just had my ignition fixed by a shop down the street. Last night was the first time I drove the car at night since the fix and found that my gauges/instruments were not illuminated. I pulled all of the fuses in the engine bay and drivers side panel that said anything about instruments/cluster but everything looked fine.
Today, I went back and pulled fuse #11 in the interior panel as it seems like that one made the most sense. Since I didn't have any additional fuses I swapped it with #10 (left sidemarker and turn signal, all of which were working last night) to see if it was indeed blown and put the "good" fuse in 11.. Turn signals no longer worked (either side) so I figure it was indeed a blown fuse.. so I put the "good fuse" back in #10 and the bad fuse back in #11 but now I still don't have turn signals.. I go buy new fuses and replace #10 and #11... still no turn signals and no gauge lights...
Brake lights still work but no high beams that I can see.. so my questions: is there a step in the ignition fix that could have caused this problem? Is there a chance it has nothing to do with the fuses or fuse box? Any connections I should check or other tests to diagnose the problem?
thanks in advance guys
I just had my ignition fixed by a shop down the street. Last night was the first time I drove the car at night since the fix and found that my gauges/instruments were not illuminated. I pulled all of the fuses in the engine bay and drivers side panel that said anything about instruments/cluster but everything looked fine.
Today, I went back and pulled fuse #11 in the interior panel as it seems like that one made the most sense. Since I didn't have any additional fuses I swapped it with #10 (left sidemarker and turn signal, all of which were working last night) to see if it was indeed blown and put the "good" fuse in 11.. Turn signals no longer worked (either side) so I figure it was indeed a blown fuse.. so I put the "good fuse" back in #10 and the bad fuse back in #11 but now I still don't have turn signals.. I go buy new fuses and replace #10 and #11... still no turn signals and no gauge lights...
Brake lights still work but no high beams that I can see.. so my questions: is there a step in the ignition fix that could have caused this problem? Is there a chance it has nothing to do with the fuses or fuse box? Any connections I should check or other tests to diagnose the problem?
thanks in advance guys
I would check all the connections to the headlight switch module ( ICM ).
To do this, you will unfortunately have to drop the dash bottom for access, see the sticky key thread for pictures.
To do this, you will unfortunately have to drop the dash bottom for access, see the sticky key thread for pictures.
Hey guys,
I just had my ignition fixed by a shop down the street. Last night was the first time I drove the car at night since the fix and found that my gauges/instruments were not illuminated. I pulled all of the fuses in the engine bay and drivers side panel that said anything about instruments/cluster but everything looked fine.
Today, I went back and pulled fuse #11 in the interior panel as it seems like that one made the most sense. Since I didn't have any additional fuses I swapped it with #10 (left sidemarker and turn signal, all of which were working last night) to see if it was indeed blown and put the "good" fuse in 11.. Turn signals no longer worked (either side) so I figure it was indeed a blown fuse.. so I put the "good fuse" back in #10 and the bad fuse back in #11 but now I still don't have turn signals.. I go buy new fuses and replace #10 and #11... still no turn signals and no gauge lights...
Brake lights still work but no high beams that I can see.. so my questions: is there a step in the ignition fix that could have caused this problem? Is there a chance it has nothing to do with the fuses or fuse box? Any connections I should check or other tests to diagnose the problem?
thanks in advance guys
I just had my ignition fixed by a shop down the street. Last night was the first time I drove the car at night since the fix and found that my gauges/instruments were not illuminated. I pulled all of the fuses in the engine bay and drivers side panel that said anything about instruments/cluster but everything looked fine.
Today, I went back and pulled fuse #11 in the interior panel as it seems like that one made the most sense. Since I didn't have any additional fuses I swapped it with #10 (left sidemarker and turn signal, all of which were working last night) to see if it was indeed blown and put the "good" fuse in 11.. Turn signals no longer worked (either side) so I figure it was indeed a blown fuse.. so I put the "good fuse" back in #10 and the bad fuse back in #11 but now I still don't have turn signals.. I go buy new fuses and replace #10 and #11... still no turn signals and no gauge lights...
Brake lights still work but no high beams that I can see.. so my questions: is there a step in the ignition fix that could have caused this problem? Is there a chance it has nothing to do with the fuses or fuse box? Any connections I should check or other tests to diagnose the problem?
thanks in advance guys
I had my switch out once and removed the connectors, I did not push a connector on all the way and the new owner phoned me one day and said the lights did not work all of a sudden. I guessed what had gone wrong and he pushed the connector on tight again.
There are spare fuses in the cover. I guess yours were all used? When fuses blow for no apparent reason it is a good idea to figure out what went wrong if you can.
I think you have to have the ignition on for the turn signals, you did try that way?
Last edited by onehundred80; May 11, 2014 at 11:38 AM.
I had the same thoughts, I guess we are just as dumb/smart as one another.
All the fuses looked good but ended up replacing them with brand new ones anyway.. and yes I tried the blinkers with the car running..
I'll see if I can drop the dash and play around.. I brought it to a mechanic in the first place to save myself some hassle (and because I thought the lock pin would need to be dremeled) but it seems like I would have been better off doing everything myself!
I'll see if I can drop the dash and play around.. I brought it to a mechanic in the first place to save myself some hassle (and because I thought the lock pin would need to be dremeled) but it seems like I would have been better off doing everything myself!
thanks guys, ended up taking apart my dash and found a loose connector on the back of the fuse box just like you said.. still connected but not "clicked" in all the way.. all good now!
I should have my Startech spoiler, R1 Concept drilled & slotted rotors , and Stoptech ceramic pads installed by the end of this week.
I installed crossdrilled rotors and ceramic pads all around last weekend and high temp silver painted and sanded down where pads toucj. I did not go slotted, I like the cooling from drilled but not the glazing of pads with slotted.
Brakes are going to be the next thing I tackle as its about time from a maintenance standpoint.. and, of course, a good time for an upgrade!
I'll post you some pictures of the spoiler and rotors when finished.
I get only 1/2 the gold star on this one, have to share with 180 since we posted the same advise at the same time
This is a great example of why I DO NOT go to a repair shop. Many times there is some mystery problem after your car is returned to you, and it is always an easy fix if you know where to look. I have come to suspect the mechanic does this on purpose just to get you back to his shop and soak you for some excessive labor costs. Maybe it's just me but it has happened too many times and I also find poor workmanship in many of the repairs. There are times when you just have to bring it to a shop for repairs (hopefully you have found one that is trust worthy and will do a good job), but when ever possible I will opt to make the repairs myself. If something goes wrong at least I know who to blame !
This is a great example of why I DO NOT go to a repair shop. Many times there is some mystery problem after your car is returned to you, and it is always an easy fix if you know where to look. I have come to suspect the mechanic does this on purpose just to get you back to his shop and soak you for some excessive labor costs. Maybe it's just me but it has happened too many times and I also find poor workmanship in many of the repairs. There are times when you just have to bring it to a shop for repairs (hopefully you have found one that is trust worthy and will do a good job), but when ever possible I will opt to make the repairs myself. If something goes wrong at least I know who to blame !
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