Thank you for the advice. Highly appreciated.

I am going to Test my pressures this week to begin with. Thank you for the readings on where it should be.


I also will be doing what james suggested.

And the issue with the hot coolant circulating trough the heater core when i dont want it took relates back to my water/heater valve being bad??? Cuz that valve is what controls that right? Or is that something else??

Again that is what originally my mechanic recommended me. A brand new water/heater valve and not a used one.

Blows cold for the first 10 min when the car is cold (does not blow ice cold like i would want it too but it is cold) but as soon as it heats up a little it juss blows hot air again.

Thanks guys

 

Get you a pair of hose clamp pliers and clamp the heater hose towards the front of the car from the valve, see what happens.
Hose Clamp Pliers Set | Tool Aid

 

so james i did what you first told me to do and for sure it did blow cold air.....i took the clamp off and it blew hot again, put the clamp back on and it got cold.......

hot coolant is getting pass the valve, so the valve is not closing.

it is being energized because my mechanic checked and told me it was...

i guess i do need a new water/heater valve....

i just dont get why a used one wont work but w.e i will be buying a new one from the Mercedes slk 320 because it is much cheaper....

unless i ride with the pliers clamped on to the hose jaja....

thank you for the advice...everyone.

highly appreciated.....it is not recommended to drive with the pliers clamped on the hose right???? lol

 

Thanks, but I'm not James, I'm George.

Have a look at Dave's post on a DIY for the valves :
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ve-repair.html

Or, since you are in Homestead, FL and will never need a heater, just cap off the hose.
( cut the hose just before the valves, put something round, solid and about 2" long in between the 2 and clamp it up. )

 

I'm glad you were able to finally diagnose the problem and get an answer to your issue. I won't hurt to drive the car with the hose clamped off. My only concern would be that if left clamped for long period of time, the hose may deform and never fully open again.


James
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.
.

 

I apologize James, you WERE the first with that advise, I just didn't see it in the earlier post. I'll take this one out of my win column and put it in yours ....

 

james and george appreciate both of your responses but yeah james did suggest that to me right at the beginning of the forum.....

thanks to everyone anyway, thats what the forum is for..

ill just wait a little and get a brand new valve...or might try another used one lol will see atleast i know where the problem is.

ill keep this threat open and updated for future reference if anyone ever comes around this issue.

next im looking to change my exhaust....not sure if i should go with a flowmaster or jusst cut the exhaust and straight pipe it......any suggestions?? which one will sound better?? will i lose back pressure??

ideas? pictures of your crossfires sounding a little meaner?

 

Hi im sorry I know this is an old thread, I have an 04 also ... ive followed as above, clamped off the one hose coming out of the duo and also cleaned the duo and lubed, ... made no difference.
I had the car re gassed a week ago and it was fine for 3 days then went warm,
I went back to the garage and they checked and it hadnnt lost any gas, they did another gas regen anyway ... this time it didnt go cold at all...
The clutch is engaging on the compressor when i press the ac button, you can hear the fan noise change also when the ac button is pressed. The metal pipe that runs behind the headlight is ice cold ...
The garage said the think its a stuck mixer flap behind the dash but they have no experience with MB or crossfires ...
any help or advice much appreciated ...

 

Please don't keep asking questions in different posting sections. It is confusing.

 

And a horrible way to get help.

But as bad as that, I' wish people would quit asking for tech advice in the "New Members" area. Introduce yourself and STOP.

If you wish, ask where you should post for help (as we have several tech areas on here). I come in and move such threads to a tech help area a few times a week, leaving a redirect that expires in a few days. If I don't do this, the forum would be a bigger mess than it is.

 

Is the A/C dropping out cause the ECU senses overtemp of the engine? Or maybe the charge in the A/C system is too low or high- that will also cause the system to disable the clutch - are you SURE that shop knows what its' doing? (Let me answer that - they don't.)

THe big question is this: Is the A/C clutch disengaging or is the clutch staying engaged? Because the answer to that tells us where the problem is. Cant ANY shop diagnose a failure anymore? I know here in America, we no longer teach analytical or critical thinking - is the UK this vapid as well?

Theory one: Clutch does not stay engaged
The clutch is controlled by the ECU, not the Climate Control Module (CCM), the CCM asks the ECU to operate the clutch, but the ECU can cut out the clutch if you accelerate and need the power, or if the engine seems to be getting too hot. The ECU has control. Does it see something it is trying to manage?

Theory two: Clutch stays engaged
If the system does not cool with the clutch engaged, then the charge is not right, probably too low OR the expansion valve is bad OR the system cant' get rid of it's heat, therefore it can't make "cold" - so, is there a lot of air flowing over the condenser? Does it cool better at 80mph than sitting still?

It's usually the duovalve passing coolant when ti's not supposed to, but it can be an actual A/C system failure - but it can also be that the ECU is trying to 'save' the engine by turning the A/C off due to some issue it thinks exists. Now, most shops you PAY to work on the system don't know what I just told you - because they hire unqualified, untrained people. Dealers are worst about this.

 

All sounds very political on here ...
I only wanted some advice.
Ive hooked up the OBDII to my test Diag and both Duo valves open and close independently allowing heat through or shutting it off, the clutch engages,
there was an error code relating to the Pulse module, however the crossfire doesnt have an intercooler plugged into slot E so im assuming that relay isnt used and thats the fault that wont clear, the other relay is the ignition.
Someone had sent me a MB bulletin relating to the same issue, that point to a collapsed suction hose on the compressor ? however the R170 320 SLK isnt mentioned on the list of effected vehicles.
The blower fan checks out ok on the diag as does the pump ...
The clutch does disengage every few minutes for a few seconds but on test it stays on ...
The garage is convinced its a stuck flap in the heater box behind the dash...
I thought my recirculate wasnt working but it is ...
The pressures on the ac are correct 35/40 on the low, I cant remember the high.
Last year it took two regasses to work properly, Ie i think it has a minor leak,
it was fine until may this year when it started to warm up.
On the 1st regas its was icy cold and lasted 3 days before going warm ...
The garage hooked it up and said it hadnt lost any gas but did a regen anyway, only this time it never got cold inside the car, only the pipes under the hood are cold, mainly the metal one that runs from the lo tap behind the headlight ...
The resistor does maybe need replacing but im told that has no bearing on the AC ... speeds on the blower fan are a bit funny, ..
Ive read the control unit for the ac in the car can have contact connection issues... .Ive also seen destructions on how to rectify this,

So in summery im at a loss ...

Im sorry for not doing a formal introduction ...
I have 24 years in the motor trade all in sales, I was also an account manager for the UK version of LoJack MB were one of my main dealer accounts so I still know a few people, but owing to the age of the car they dont really seem to have a clue, there is one seasoned tech in my local MB dealership who may have an idea but hes on holiday for the next 10 days ...

 

Ok the outside temp is 21oC here, the car temp gauge is half way ... the ac is on, blower on full ... the clutch engages for 5 seconds along with the radiator fan, it then disenages for 50 seconds along with the fan ... so its not engaging continuously